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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are multiple posts on this topic already, but I haven't been seeing too many confirmed solutions in those threads, and this seems to be getting more severe for me, so here goes...

The last couple evenings when I go to leave work, I fire up the engine and when I release the throttle, it just drops to under 1k rpms and sputters to a stop. I can keep it going by holding the throttle open, but it runs rough under about 4k, and spurts and pulls while on the throttle (or just maintenance throttle). It seems to run ok at higher RPMs, and seems to get a bit better as I ride home, but the starts in the evenings are really bad. I first had this happen yesterday evening, but then this morning it ran fine.

I saw from other threads that suggested solutions would be to check the airbox to make sure everything is hooked up right. This seems likely since I just took it all apart this last weekend, but I peered under the tank (without taking it off) and didn't see any tubes that I forgot to reconnect (not 100% sure til I take it off again of course). I know the TB boots are on right; the rear was dislodged before, but this weekend I fixed that and they are still on right. Is there another line off the airbox that could cause this behavior?

I also see solutions of remapping the FI or getting a PCIII. I don't want to do this because it was running just fine before. I want to figure out what has changed now.

Some suggested TB sync or bad TPS, and while these are certainly possible, I don't see why it would change so quickly from running fine the beginning of the week.

Thanks for your help, and I hope I have not missed some previous threads that already answer this directly
 

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The key phrase in your post is " it was running just fine before". That, to me is a clear indication that something that you've done, has changed the variables involved. There are two air lines that connect under your tank, one to the Bar pressure and I think the other is the tank vent? I'm not sure but you might want to be sure that you haven't crossed them.

The fuel injection has a cold start feature so when you initially start it (don't touch the throttle), it should fire and run around 1800rpm or so. Then after it warms a bit, it should drop down to the 1200 or so that you should have it set for.

Since you made no mention on the temps and haven't confirmed that you reconnected everything correctly, you should prob loosen the tank bolt and raise it a couple of inches to peak. If you have more than 10-12K on the bike I would also suggest that you sync the primaries and secondaries. It's easy to do and you can do it in your garage.

Lastly, when you've sync'ed both sets of plates, complete the job by sync'ing the fuel bodies with your homemade or store bought manometer....it will run smoooooth!

jeff
 

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If a throttle body sync nipple or hose was touched check that first. Sounds like a vacuum leak, check your vac hoses and TB boots again.

Set your idle at 1200 to 1300 when the engine is warm and off the high idle/cold start mode.

Its best to test the bike before putting it all back together, when I strip my fairing off I go around the block and make sure it runs right before buttoning all back up. I've left off a VAC hose cap before.... and I've had a VAC hose fall off that rear air box sensor because it dried out. Best to use new rubber VAC hoses and loose the old stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice guys, you were both right. I took it apart again and found that the hose to the 2nd air cleaner (name in the fiche) was cracked apart at both ends (PN 18711-06G10). I must have done this when I handled it, so it indeed was a vacuum leak.

In addition, I put extensions on the sync nipples, and when I pulled the caps off, they too were cracked. I hadn't touched these, so they were probably just like that already.

So now I have the sync nipples extended up to the battery area and capped with new 1/8 caps, and I wrapped the 2nd air hose in electrical tape to tide me over until I can get a new hose in. I fired her up and she purred like a kitten, right at the fast idle, no hesitation.

Thanks for the advice guys.
 

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I am going to jump on this because I just purchased a 2007 DL1000. has 27K on it.. I am the third owner. the day after I bought it.. decided to take it for a ride. 4hrs no big deal, didnt notice too much, the ride was fine except for one part on the way home where it had trouble starting, but it managed alright.

decided that based on the lack of information from the previous owner about issues or maintenance , that I should start fresh and look at all the usual things, air box , spark, oil, chain, chain... etc. replaced and updated all those things, it needed plugs (purchased some, low temp was all that was available here in AK) , found a destroyed rear bearing, replaced that, front fork seal is going, parts are coming for that. so I figured this thing had been run kinda hard.

so parts replaced, I am feeling better. go for a ride.. the issues creep in. The first hour to 2 are great.. suddenly, as I am coming down in gears to stop.. engine sputters, back fires and stop... start it, runs... then stops.. start it again, throttle it it runs so long as im above 3K. shit... drive it to gas station... needed gas anyway, let it sit, put the higher octane in it.. start it up, no issues the whole way home. (ghost in the shell?) next day, start it and its running fine. 1 hour into the ride, same issue creeps in.. sputters , feels like its not firing unless Im at 4k RPM and even then its still running rough.

so in my case cold start and idle are great, its only after it heats up and is ridden for awhile does this issue present itself. any ideas would be helpful. why is it waiting so long to not run? wouldn't a vacuum line be immediate on start up? thanks all
 

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Coils and leads fill often fail when hot and give no problems when cold.

My first plan of attack with a problem like that is get it hot, park in a very very dark spot, rev the motor while looking for stray sparks.

Stalling when coming to a stop can be a indication of a bad clutch switch on the 650 I don't know about the 1000.
 

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FML apparently, because I had this exact issue yesterday.

Came off the freeway. Engine stalled when I was coming to a stop at the first intersection.

Had to manually control idle to keep the engine running, the rest of the way home. Fortunately, that wasn't very far.

I started up the bike in the garage about half an hour later. It happily idled in N.

WTF???
 
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