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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning everyone!...I just purchased a 2002 DL1000, and have rode for 150 miles or so. It has Low miles, like new condition, but the engine knocking at lower RPM's, especially when cold, or after a gear change going through the 2800-3200 RPM range concerns me. Is this a triat of this engine?....Just seen a SV1000 as I made my last 40 mile ride, and his bike had a little knocking as well, so possibly the bike is fine. I hope to hear from you 1000 owners, as the bike I so like to ride, but information before more miles might be the best choice, thanks in advance Charlie................:thumbup:
 

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i dont claim to be a pro but i have an 03 that does the same things ... they guyz here told me to ride it like i stole it.. SO I DO
 

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I suppose we need to understand what your "knock" sounds like.. Is it like a rod knock, a tick, exhaust, etc...? They typically do make some engine noise and with the rpm range you mentioned I would be more apt to think its clutch chudder and not an issue..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks! I just started the bike here in nice weather Ca. High desert area, such a nice day! I did not hear the noise. I will go out soon for a ride, and I am sure the knocking will be there if I short shift to save fuel, but like you mentioned, ride it like you stole it, and actually if I do ride the bike like I stoke it, it really has no knocking, just great power, and really smooth. It finds it's sweet, smooth spot around 4K 75mph...like silk Thanks again, Charlie...I want a PCIII...bigger smiles...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks! I thought to check chain adjustment, and possibly that might smooth some vibration. The clutch does sound like a possibility. The bike runs almost perfect, other than when I ride the bike to see how many miles I can get out of the thing. If I ride it more like I ride my RC51, then it seems to by-pass the knocking, and vibrations. Again Thanks, and I will just check chain, and get more miles on it. Thanks Charlie
 

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FWIW, mine does it too. I've owned it from new and it's always been the same. Every other DL1000 I've ridden does it, some just a bit less some a bit more than others. Either way it is normal and don't worry about it.

My bike doesn't suffer from 'Chudder' so it's not the clutch in my opinion. It's not the cams either as cams normally tick and rattle, only knocking when the cams are completely shot and it's a very fast knock too, not like the one I hear on every Strom 1000. General opinion in the UK dealerships and Suzi Uk seems to be that it's short skirt low friction piston knock on the compression or power stroke. It fits the bill as it is worse when cold and much less as the motor warms as the pistons expand. It increases slightly in intensity with throttle opening. Just like the Ford 1.8 Pinto engine used to do due to short skirt low friction pistons. When they first came out I complained about it and Ford gave me a new engine. It was just the same that's when they figured out what it was.
 

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Chazzie1: i believe you have what is called clutch chudder. I bought an '06 with only 5k miles on it at the end of Jan. I've been riding it most every day and have logged nearly 4k miles in the past 2 months. I noticed a "roughness" in the engine especially in the 2k to 2800 rpm range. I synced the throttle bodies which helped at the very low end but the vibration and roughness got worse in the 2000 to 3700 rpm range. "realshelby" on this forum and others helped me diagnose the problem as clutch chudder. (a test is to accelerate faily hard to get the roughness. Just as you are passing through the rough range put light pressure on the clutch lever to slip the clutch slightly. If it smooths out you have clutch chudder). Once in a while the throttle body boots will get popped off and cause a rough running but it generally doesn't smooth out at 4k rpm like yours does. Running like silk at 4k rpm is another clue that it's clutch related as nearly everyone with the clutch chudder talks about it smoothing out at 4k. "realshelby" and others are very knowledgable in this area and it can be fixed!! Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Chazzie1: i believe you have what is called clutch chudder. I bought an '06 with only 5k miles on it at the end of Jan. I've been riding it most every day and have logged nearly 4k miles in the past 2 months. I noticed a "roughness" in the engine especially in the 2k to 2800 rpm range. I synced the throttle bodies which helped at the very low end but the vibration and roughness got worse in the 2000 to 3700 rpm range. "realshelby" on this forum and others helped me diagnose the problem as clutch chudder. (a test is to accelerate faily hard to get the roughness. Just as you are passing through the rough range put light pressure on the clutch lever to slip the clutch slightly. If it smooths out you have clutch chudder). Once in a while the throttle body boots will get popped off and cause a rough running but it generally doesn't smooth out at 4k rpm like yours does. Running like silk at 4k rpm is another clue that it's clutch related as nearly everyone with the clutch chudder talks about it smoothing out at 4k. "realshelby" and others are very knowledgable in this area and it can be fixed!! Good luck!
..........Thanks for your message! Monday I went for almost 300 miles, and the knocking and vibrations were noticed on the canyon roads as shifting was needed constantly, and tight turns, sand, cows, water crossings......Tuesday I went again, this time about 430 miles. But I adjusted the fairly tight chain, and the power came on throught the gears with less knocking and vibrations. I have learned to just let off the throttle so slightly, just as the knock, and vibration starts, at the first gear change to second, then keeping the engine RPM up above 3200 at all times if possible.....These are really nice bikes, and I am getting ready for another 430 mile ride, this time in the reverse direction....Talk to you all later, Charlie.......:thumbup:
 

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Some vibration and knocking is normal some isn't. Mine ran like a POS below 3200. So badly, I would take my Harley for town trips in traffic and save the strom for slab work.

A PCIII or a good dyno tune will do wonders for the ridability of the Vee. Mine is a different bike for the few hundred I invested letting a pro tune it.

Next step for me is the clutch. Mine doesn't chudder but makes a racket at idle in neutral. When I pull the clutch lever it stops. I am hoping the clutch basket mod everybody is so big on will help mine. Its my winter mod this year.

Mine has 49,000 miles approximately and is an 07.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks! I have gone for rides for the last 5 days, each ride about 300 to 400 miles. I got the bike with only 4700 miles....2002 silver frame. I have found the nasty vibrations and knocking around the 3000 RPM range, and try my best to just keep the rpm up above 3000. Most of the knocking and vibrations are when pulling grades. I know the bike has a clutch knocking as well, and this may be some for the noise. I think a PCIII would help some, and I will be shopping soon......Charlie....Love down Hill Rides....no issues then....Time for another ride, later for now.
 

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You mentioned short shifting and trying to save fuel. I wonder if you are simply luging the engine too much (rpm's too low) ? This engine loves to rev, mine is never under 3000 rpm's unless at idle. I have a PC-5 from Fuel Moto, with their map for stock configuration, and it runs great.
 

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I know this is a resurrection, but I figured there are enough of these threads out there already, I won't make yet another...

I have been experiencing severe vibration between 2k-3k RPM's regardless of how much throttle I apply (only happens under load though, no vibration when I have the clutch all the way in). I thought I had clutch basket chudder, but I am now thinking it might be the "seemingly" typical engine lugging described in this thread. I pulled a good example of the sound from my helmet cam last night in hope that y'all might be able to confirm it is engine lugging, or definitely isn't clutch chudder, anything like that...

https://youtu.be/x1PF1FBN15c

The first little chug-a-lug is a quick one at 00:06, then a longer one at 00:20. I had barely let the clutch out, and it feels like the engine is trying to shake itself apart.

I've been trying to read as much as possible here, but there is so much information that I am having trouble narrowing it down.

A little history on the bike...
I synched the TB's myself last fall (they were in-synch, didn't need to adjust), and the TPS read at the middle bar like it's supposed to. I recently installed an external fuel filter. Periodically it will run like crap, surge and sputter at low RPMs and idle, and at idle the RPM's will drop below 1k then it'll stall out. It seems to do that for a few days, then go back to normal for a few weeks, then do it all again. I thought it might be dirty injectors (57k on the odo), but I haven't had the chance to take the engine apart at all and clean stuff out (I'm a mechanical engineer, so I am capable of that, done it on my other moto, I just don't have the time or space right now to get into it). I don't know if any of this is relevant, but figured you might ask about the maintenance history.

I have read that people have seen some big improvement by installing a PCiii or PCV (or I think a PCFC does the same thing?) and seen big reduction/elimination of this stumbling and vibration. This is my first FI bike, and I am trying to keep my head above water in reading here about the FI maps, PCIII, etc...

Can you tell anything from my video? Any advice for how to confirm further what it is? With the amount of shaking I feel, it can't be good for the engine, but I don't want to just buy a PCV or send my clutch off without confirming that it is actually necessary.

Thanks in advance!
 

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First let me address the TPS. The "bar" being in the middle isn't what you are looking for when checking/adjusting the tps. As you very slowly raise rpm's in neutral watch for the exact rpm the bar moves from the middle to the high position. That rpm is what tells you if it needs adjustment or not. I would say most are happiest at 1700-1800 rpm for the bar to raise. Your other symptoms about it dying at idle can be several things, but the inconsistency points to a faulty tps unit. They cannot be tested accurately for real world problems. Just replaced.

Watching your video I don't get a lot from it. I will tell you that mine, with a modified clutch basket, would ride in that traffic at 2500 rpm and pull away smoothly ( except for the fueling issues, that is another story ). You are NOT lugging the engine at 3000 rpms running it like you show in the video. Do the chudder test:
When riding from 2500 to around 4000 rpms, with a bit of throttle, slowly feather the clutch lever. Just enough to load the pressure plate but not enough that the engine rpms raise up quickly due the the clutch slipping. Might take a few tries to get the feel of this. If you notice significant smoothing of the engine while feathering the clutch, you can bet a new or modified clutch basket will make a big improvement ( doing this test will always make it feel a bit smoother, just not as much as it does with a worn basket).
 

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Thanks for the reply. I know that I didn't have the terminology correct on the -C00 thing, but it was last year that I did it so I didn't remember the details. I remember it was in spec according to the tech video (I think it was a suzuki video, this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJaheyRorsw).

I tried slowly pulling in the clutch a bunch of times like you described, and I didn't notice any change really at all until the clutch finally slipped. So I guess that means my clutch basket isn't the issue? A PO may have replaced it already, I bought it at 50k and the guy I bought it from I think only put about 10k on it, though he said he didn't replace it.

Regarding the TPS, is there really no test I can do? There's another new thread talking about the WOT voltage being off; is that at least a gross test I could try to confirm that it's bad?

Also, anywhere to get a TPS for less than $80-90? Seems like a lot to pay for something I can't test to verify it's my problem.
 

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clutch chudder

you nedd to replace your clutch basket I just did my 2005 call Terry he has the fix 281 851-8636 terry rebuilds your beasket better springs this will happen to all DL andSV 1000's check it out Werkparts .com
 

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Thanks for the reply. I know that I didn't have the terminology correct on the -C00 thing, but it was last year that I did it so I didn't remember the details. I remember it was in spec according to the tech video (I think it was a suzuki video, this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJaheyRorsw).

I tried slowly pulling in the clutch a bunch of times like you described, and I didn't notice any change really at all until the clutch finally slipped. So I guess that means my clutch basket isn't the issue? A PO may have replaced it already, I bought it at 50k and the guy I bought it from I think only put about 10k on it, though he said he didn't replace it.

Regarding the TPS, is there really no test I can do? There's another new thread talking about the WOT voltage being off; is that at least a gross test I could try to confirm that it's bad?

Also, anywhere to get a TPS for less than $80-90? Seems like a lot to pay for something I can't test to verify it's my problem.
I'm the "WOT TPS voltage is low" guy! FYI, my problem turned out NOT to be due to the TPS. It was actually because the throttle lever was catching on a dent in the bottom of the tank - so my throttle was only opening about 40%. In essence, I had a governor and didn't know it. Once I removed (pounded out) the obstruction, the TPS voltage range came into spec.
 
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