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UPDATE;
I’ve swapped back the dirty filter and the sound has disappeared. Not sure what to take from this experience other than don’t buy Fram filters from Amazon.
I stay in Kenya and all my spares need to be shipped in. I use a freight forwarder company in California so my “address” is American. Can anyone suggest a reliable online spares store located in the US for future purchases of general Vstrom spares?
Thanks everyone, love this forum. Smart guys on here.
I've used Rocky Mountain ATV as my online OEM parts supplier for years, and found them to be very reliable with excellent customer service. No doubt they're currently suffering from the same parts supply issues as every other retailer, but absent the current global supply crisis, they are great to deal with.

www.rockymountainatv.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Maybe get somebody to forward some OEM Suzuki filters. Is there a Suzuki dealer in Kenya? I think that filter is used on Suzuki ATVs as well so should be able to get one.

kfh000
Kenya doesn’t have any dealerships of any type. There is a guy who tries to sell KTMs in Nairobi and a BMW car dealership that will import bikes if the price is right. But bikes in East Africa are all under 200cc and mainly Indian brands Bajaj (KTM) and TVS (BMW). There are thousands of 125s here but only a handful of imported large displacement rides. There are only six Vstrom in the whole of Kenya and I imported mine last year. It’s an amazing country to ride in but the availability of spares and parts is nonexistent.
 

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Cant you get the parts from South Africa? There are several forum members there. They might assist.
 

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You and the other 5 should go in on 10 filters. I have used K & N KN-138 they are 11.00 us on Amazon.

Hey troopers what other items should he and his 6 friends have on hand? Maybe we can put together a package for them. Brakes, Drive Kits, Tires, Oil, Filters, coolant, gaskets, must have farkles etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
You and the other 5 should go in on 10 filters. I have used K & N KN-138 they are 11.00 us on Amazon.

Hey troopers what other items should he and his 6 friends have on hand? Maybe we can put together a package for them. Brakes, Drive Kits, Tires, Oil, Filters, coolant, gaskets, must have farkles etc.
😂 I appreciate the thought. But honestly most things automotive I can get here. It’s only those bike specific parts that I need to order in and when I do I wait weeks to get fakes! Bad luck I guess.
There is a trooper on here, Bustednuklz , who has messaged me and is sending a couple oil filters from a legitimate vendor in Canada. That helps me greatly and I’m forever grateful!

When this Covid crap lets up, I’ll get a flight to civilization and get a suitcase full of spares to bring back!
 

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Could have been a counterfeit; then again, you could have just been the lucky ten millionth customer to get the bad filter. Frankly, I've been using Frams on all my cars & bikes since the 70s, and never had an issue. But sooner or later, any manufacturer will turn out at least one bad part.

I would go back through Amazon to complain to the supplier. Whether it's direct from an Amazon warehouse or a distributor that uses Amazon as their front end, either way, I've had good success with Amazon taking responsibility.
 

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That was my first thought too, counterfeit Fram filter. The packaging and appearance of some of the counterfeits are near perfect. Anyway, it sounds like it was the filter and it is good information to keep in mind.

Sometime time ago, I reviewed a comparison between a Fram motorcycle filter and an OEM BMW filters on a BMW motorcycle forum, my other ride. BMW is rather proud of their OEM parts and their prices reflects it. Anyway, the forum member had cut the two filters in half to see how the compared. There was a big, noticeable difference in build & quality with the BMW filter appearing far superior to the Fram. For the difference in cost savings vs an engine rebuild, I use only OEM filters in both my BMW & my Suzuki. With that said, I don't live in Kenya where there is an obvious supply problem either.
 

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I used an Amazon Fram. Same as the one I removed. I’ve dug the old one out of the trash bin after reading your comment. I’ll screw it on and see if that changes anything.
Never ever use Fram filters on anything. They are trash.
 

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IYHO. A certain Strom with 437K says its fine.
😁

Nothing wrong with Fram filters. I've seen a lot of worse filters than Fram over the years... and from some "reputable" filter manufacturers. Yes, my OCD forced me to cut open every filter for the past decade. I was shocked to see some of the deficiencies I ran into.

That's why I like cartridge filters so much... you can't hide the shitty QA when you can see the pleats, bonding, etc.

My idle hammer started right after the first oil change. Did we ever figure out why that happens? I know it's off topic, but I'm curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I’m just lucky I heard the subtle sound difference and immediately returned to my house. I only rode about 3km with the oil starvation so I’m not worried about engine damage. But if I had a louder exhaust or my ear plugs in it sure coulda turned out to be an expensive day!
 

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I've used Rocky Mountain ATV as my online OEM parts supplier for years, and found them to be very reliable with excellent customer service. No doubt they're currently suffering from the same parts supply issues as every other retailer, but absent the current global supply crisis, they are great to deal with.

www.rockymountainatv.com
I’m just lucky I heard the subtle sound difference and immediately returned to my house. I only rode about 3km with the oil starvation so I’m not worried about engine damage. But if I had a louder exhaust or my ear plugs in it sure coulda turned out to be an expensive day!
Had same problem. Fixed by draining 150ml of oil. Had just gone over max oil.
 

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Maybe get somebody to forward some OEM Suzuki filters. Is there a Suzuki dealer in Kenya? I think that filter is used on Suzuki ATVs as well so should be able to get one.

kfh000
I was concerned about the price of oil filters in Australia so sourced an excellent alternative in the USA
Purolator PL14610 now it is for a 650 vstrom but check if the 1000 vstrom filter is the same. It would surprise me if they were different.
You need to get the adapter fitting as it is imperial fitment. When will Americans ever join the rest of the world and use metric. I got mine from a California mob but any half decent machinist could turn one out. Metric into block and imperial for the screw on filter. Have been using them without fail for 70k Km.
I purchased 10 of them so will have filters on shelf after I,m buried.
 

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UPDATE;
I’ve swapped back the dirty filter and the sound has disappeared. Not sure what to take from this experience other than don’t buy Fram filters from Amazon.
I stay in Kenya and all my spares need to be shipped in. I use a freight forwarder company in California so my “address” is American. Can anyone suggest a reliable online spares store located in the US for future purchases of general Vstrom spares?
Thanks everyone, love this forum. Smart guys on here.
Glad you were able to isolate the cause before any real damage was done. Good luck in your search to acquire more appropriate filters.
 

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Yes, the cause is that there's a little play in the crank and a SMALL side thrust as the two pistons go up and down. That shoots the crank side to side and causes a knocking sound. It really only happens with the clutch pulled in at idle. It's really common to have people report this after the first oil change. Totally harmless but quite a knock.

Realshelby did have a 'fix' but it's a PITA to set up properly and he had so many complaints because people couldn't do it he gave up selling it.

It's not just your bike. I really don't have this problem because it's hot as hell here and I run a heavier than recommended oil because I'm never going to have cold starts to deal with. (Trying to avoid being kicked for starting an oil thread as well ;) - pm me if you really want to know)

So if the filter change doesn't fix this - my suggestion would be buy any heavy oil without friction modifiers (quite a few of the diesel engine oils qualify and go up to numbers like 20w60), do an oil change and check that the hammer has gone away. Once you've confirmed that's the cause just run what you brung in future. These engines aren't going to die suddenly pretty much no matter what oil you run - modulo don't run one with friction modifiers because that screws up the wet clutch.

If that was Castrol GTX car oil - you need to do an oil change ASAP because it does have friction modifiers and will make the clutch slip.
PeteW, I was under the impression that our wet clutches require motor oil with the friction modifiers (motorcycle specific). You seem to be saying the opposite here. Can the site contributors bring up to speed on this topic. (I don't want to start an oil thread)
Thanks,
Chris
 

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PeteW, I was under the impression that our wet clutches require motor oil with the friction modifiers (motorcycle specific). You seem to be saying the opposite here. Can the site contributors bring up to speed on this topic. (I don't want to start an oil thread)
Thanks,
Chris
"Friction Modifiers" make things more slippery and there is a feeling that they can cause wet clutches to slip. That's why it is recommended to use an oil without friction modifiers.

..Tom
 

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So Purolator makes a Vstrom 650 specific filter (a metric bike) with imperial threads? Hmmm......
No, the Purolator fits the bike after you install an adaptor. So not a direct replacement.
 

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And to add to the "oil thread" and what oil can do to wet clutches...that comes under the JASO specifications. There are compounds in oil that CAN adhere to friction surfaces. These can build up and cause the friction coefficient to lessen. And I am sure there are cases where that has or can happen.

Anytime a clutch isn't acting right the first, second, and beyond responses all like to point out the oil likely had friction modifiers!

The FACT is that I have never run into a case where the friction discs or steels showed any build up or glazing caused by these friction modifiers. And I have been around a LOT of clutch related discussions!

While there is reason to avoid using "energy conserving" oils, the oils that have the highest content of bad things related to clutches are all in the 0-30 ranges of viscosity ( 0-20, 5-30, etc.) which have no place in a V STrom to start with.
 

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PeteW, I was under the impression that our wet clutches require motor oil with the friction modifiers (motorcycle specific). You seem to be saying the opposite here. Can the site contributors bring up to speed on this topic. (I don't want to start an oil thread)
Thanks,
Chris
Motorcycle oils don't have the extreme friction modifiers used in car engines. Automatic car transmissions have their own oil supply, manuals have dry clutches, most motorbikes have a single oil system for everything, engine, clutch, transmission. Put a modern car oil into most motorcycles and the clutch will start slipping. Bike oils may well have SOME friction modifiers but it's well down on what modern car oils have.

It's not material buildup that's the concern, they are simply too slippery and the clutch plates no longer grip. Oil probably would get burnt on eventually but that'll be due to the heat from the clutch slipping not slow buildup with time. There have been cases reported here of people who've done this. No idea whether it's recoverable but a set of new fiber plates aren't expensive for these bikes so I'd probably just change the oil to cheap non-EC oil run the engine to flush the old oil, buy new fiber plates, wash the old metal ones down well and reassemble and refill with the correct oil.
 
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