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Discussion Starter #1
:( I bought a set of Givi engine guards. I have taken out the four allen head screws from the "V" upper support engine hanging support member. This is what needs to be removed to install the Givi crash bars. Before I did this, I installed a small jack with light pressure under the engine. I noticed the two allen screws on the bottom left were a little tight coming out. but suspected this was due to the factory locktite. Of course I followed instructions in doing only one side at a time.
Now, trying to get the crash bars installed, the V engine hanging bar doesn't line up on the bottom left two allen head screw holes. I got frustrated, temporarily put the givi's back in the box, but now I can't even get things to line up back in the stock postion where I started!
I have tried some pressure with the jack in a variety of postions, and loosened the main larger bolts. :evil: Now what??? I still can't get the screws to line up, without buggering the threads. Has anybody ran in to this problama.??Or what am I missing beside a brain.
This isn't a Givi product issue. Their bars line up just fine. I'm doing something wrong,,, but what is it?
 

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Oh my, that does sound strange and I have no idea for you. Perhaps get a different pair of eyes to look at the situation. Sometimes we need some one else to see the problem. The only real suggestion I have is get some Stainless bolts and throw away the ones Givi supplies. The stainless are better quality by far and will turn in smoothly and torque real nice. I had a Givi bolt snap off on me and I was none too impressed. Good luck and keep in touch, this seems to be a new issue that will generate a lot of curiosity. Wrench On.
 
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Hmmmm.... Mine never lost the proper alignment and I didn't put anything unger the engine. You might use a long, thin tool of some sort to verify the alignment. Once you get the first one, the rest will be easy. Be patient.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bolt Alignment

I am beginning to think suzuki put this together a 64th of an inch off. I see thread cut marks on the aluminum v shaped strap that holds the motor to the frame. That is,,, the piece the allen bolt is supposed to slide thru first, then, start threading into the frame.... This is not good. Ruined threads are a possibility. I will run a tap into the holes and clean things up before I attempt again this morning.
Thank you folks for attention and advice
 

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Same hear for the GIVI bolts - very soft and prone to rounding off.

My first set of bars refused to line up - Givi sent replacement.
Second set were fine - but I had a bolt round off and now I can't get it out.
 

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Installation

I think your problems started when you propped up then engine with a jack. In doing so, the engine went out of alignment when you removed the final bolts.

By NOT propping up the engine, everything stayed right where it was when I installed my Givi bars. Have you tried removing the jack?

my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #8
alignment

:arrow: I used the jack with virtually no force at first, as a somewhat neutral helper. I then removed the jack, No help.
Interesting to note, after getting givi bars out of my way and seeing if I could bolt things back to stock,,,The two upper allen screws started perfect. (on the throttle side of the bike, we are talking about here) then the third screw on the bottom set was a little tougher, the fourth and final just plain would not line up. I previously told you about the thread marks on the triangulated frame piece that the allen screw cut in on its way out.
I tried a variety of wood blocks pushing at different angles in conjunction with the jack but to no avail.
I finally, but reluctantly loosened all the main heavy nuts or bolts hanging the engine. This gave me the ability to "rock" the triangulated frame to engine hanger a wee bit. Then again a jack in a variety of positions. I used a long skinny metal punch wrapped with teflon tape to protect the threads to insert into the "out of align" hole to move the triangulated piece. Sorry Charlie, no help. So,,,,,I got things as close as possible, started the other three allen screws and took a 8mmx1.25 tap to clean out the now insulted factory threads. Back came the Givi bars---new supplied screws----plenty of lock tite, torqued the mains and everything is now installed for my 8000 mile artic circle ride this Summer. By the way, loading the allen screws with lock tite I have read that you should use slightly less torque (by a factor of .8, for example if it calls for 20 lbs. go with 16-18 lbs, (20 times .8). Maybe this is baloney, but set your torque wrench to 25 lbs as called for and using a hex head socket on one of those small allen screws and you may be taking a trip to the strip club. To those of you who strip one of these allen screws threads or break the head off,,,I don't see a huge panic. Try drilling exactly the center out, see if you can save the stock tapping (8x1.25) as best as possible, then buy a longer hardened allen screw that will traverse completely through the main frame and back it up with a nylon aircraft locker nut on the back side.----Or, just go up to the next size.
When I get back from my artic ride, I will give a report on how these Givi crash bars hold up. (and my handy work). I took the bike for a ride and at this time feel no weird added vibrations, and must say looking down for a second, as I ride, that I like the idea of the knee protection I see down below! (not to mention saving the fairing) :arrow: :arrow:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
alignment

Sorry guys and gals I meant 20lbs.x.8=16lbs of torque. I don't know what I did to get mr. smilely face in there. My wife must have said something about WalMart's new low prices. I will review my postings more carefully in the future
 

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The liquid acts as a lubricant so the friction on the threads is lessened. The lower value is used to get the same amount of tension on the bolt as would occur at the higher value if thread friction is included. Always check the manual to see if the given values are with or without locker liquid.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
torque

As I suspected the torque figures had something to do with a loctite lubed thread. Thank you for the explaination of the lower torque reasoning. You turned a light on in my head!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Givi Bar update

Givi Bars worked great, Bike protection, My leg and knee protection, looked like Highway Patrol Motor as I came on 4 wheeler's doggy. Also, on long Canadian staightaways, I put my legs up on them to give the body a different position to recline on. :) :arrow: :D
It turned out to be a 7k ride and the V-1000 is very comfortable. Some kind of crash bars are a must on this stealth cruiser. No strange vibs I read about either. Not a bad product at all :mrgreen: :mrgreen: [/img]
 

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I had line up problem when i wa installing my bars,i had to pry to line up lower mounts,i hated the quality of bolts ,they look like they will be strip first time if i try to loose them,near future i need to change them with something better.
I am having vibration problem after 80mph so decided my maximum speed is 80mph.i looks great it gives the bike dual sport personality .
 
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