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Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem that I can't find any direct information about on the forums after some initial searching.

I am in the midst of installing engine guards and a skid plate (Pat Walsh). I tried to remove the the back-most of the two front engine bolts on the right side of the bike using the "wobbly" (rounded) end of a good, Husky 6mm Allen wrench. I've had these allen wrenches for several years and have used them numerous times with never a problem. Until now...

The "wobbly" (rounded) head of the Allen wrench broke off in the head of the screw and it won't come out. I've tried everything I know from magnets to tweezers to a shop vac... NOTHING has worked. :headbang:

I even tried drilling into the center of the broken of Allen wrench, but I couldn't scratch the surface, not even with a diamond-tipped etching tool! Apparently, it is hardened steel or some such.

I've been to Sears, Lowe's and Autozone looking for potential solutions.

I've bought two different sets of sockets made to remove stripped bolts. The first set's 1/2" (12.5mm) socket went on a *tried* to bite into the bolt head, but it as soon as I put the ratchet handle to it, it just spun. Likewise the 12mm socket in the second set didn't do much better. The 11mm socket (from either set) wouldn't go on the bolt head.

I've also tried first a 13mm and then a 12-mm 12-point, deep socket. They went on... and then just spun. The 6-point equivalents and an 11mm 12-point just wouldn't go on at all.

Yesterday, I had the (less than brilliant?) idea to drill a hole into the head of the bolt just next to the hardened allen wrench head so that I could pry the Allen tip out. After breaking a half dozen bits and then switching to titanium bits, I've only gotten far enough into the bolt head to get to the widest part of the head... and the drill seems unable to get past this point. :yikes:

A Dremel tool doesn't appear likely to help because none of the Dremel bits that I can find are designed to deal with the hardened metal of the Allen wrench. All the cutting wheels I can find seem to have the same issue *and* they are all so large that, even if I *COULD* cut a slot in the top of the screw to use a screwdriver on it, I would have to cut into the metal bracket where the head of the bolt is recessed.

So, now I've got a mess... an engine bolt with a broken-off Allen tip in the head with no visible means of removable (after spending almost $100 on tools, bits and *stuff*...

The nearest Suzuki shop (not the one where I bought the bike) is 40 miles away. There's an independent shop around the corner that I've never used, but I've met the principals and one of them rides a V-Strom. They specialize in dual-sport and off-road. Rumor has it they're good and they work on a number of local Stroms.

Anybody got any recommendations?

:furious::confused:
 

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I've got to say in all my years of wrenching, I've never encountered or heard of this happening. The only thing I can suggest is place an appropriate size nut on top of the allen bolt head and weld them together from inside the nut, then replace the bolt.
It'll be interesting to see how this comes out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've got to say in all my years of wrenching, I've never encountered or heard of this happening. The only thing I can suggest is place an appropriate size nut on top of the allen bolt head and weld them together from inside the nut, then replace the bolt.
It'll be interesting to see how this comes out.
Thanks, ozart, for the recommendation.

I don't have a welder... I don't know how to weld.

Would a tube of JB Weld and "...an appropriate-sized nut..." do the trick? Or is JB Weld that strong?

Thanks!

RickC
 

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welding a nut

you get the best welder (person) you can find for this trick
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Put an ice pick or sharpened rod at the 3 o'clock position on the bolt head and hammer a small dimple into it. Then heat the bolt. Place the pick in the dimple with the shaft pointing upward at a 45 degree angle. Start tapping the pick with a hammer. If that doesn't do it, take it to a machine shop.

In the future, never use a ball end to break a bolt free or to tighten it to the final torque. Suzuki started using thread locker on those bolts a few years ago. Also, the torque spec in the service manual is wrong. It should be 16.5 lb-ft, not 25.5lb-ft. Put a soldering iron or gun on the bolt end for a minute before trying to loosen it. If a proper straight end hex wrench doesn't get it out then, get a hex bit like this.



If it still requires excessive force, do not put a pipe on the wrench. Alternately apply heat and using the hex bit on an impact driver like this.

 

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Would a tube of JB Weld and "...an appropriate-sized nut..." do the trick? Or is JB Weld that strong?
I can't say if JB weld will do it, it's fairly brittle, as apparently your hex wrench was. Be sure and give it a couple days to cure if you try it.

Kiwi is right about a good welder. Forget a bike shop, inquire at the welding/fab places in the area. Call and tell them your problem. If they seem interested, let'm have a look and see if they can do it.
 

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Got a photo of your situation?

It might help if people can see what's going on...
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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JB-Weld will not help and it may run where it will do harm.
 

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good point re ball ends

Being new to MC wrenching, I bought a set of Tee handled hex wrenches from Sears in metric - and they have ball ends!

I had better be prudent as to how I use them !!!

I had bought them because they sneak in where a regular fitting (like in Greywolf's photo) will not fit without removing parts.

The ball ends are weak because the manufacturer built them with a necked down section behind the ball.

On the day I bought them My local auto parts chain had no Tee wrenches at all in hex metric, and it was further than I cared to drive to Cycle Gear.
 

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I used the allan socket like greywolf suggests and first pull on first bolt, the socket broke in the middle. then I knew i was looking for trouble so I went and got a good L allan key with no play in it at all. it was nasty with the green threadlock in there but worked out.

I would do the nut / welding trick as mentioned. shouldn't be hard to find a fab shop (auto or bike) that can tig weld that nut on there. just make sure it is pre-heated and allowed to cool.
 

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Wouldn't a few taps with a hammer and punch dislodge the broken ball end of the allen wrench from within bolt head?
I wish it would, but no such luck. I have had one stuck in one of my rearsets on my TLS for years. I keep it shot with Bel Ray 6 in 1 so that it won't rust up and sieze. I am currently doing a restoration on my TL, so very soon I am going to tackle that removal task. I will keep you posted.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Try the ice pick trick leading off post #5 with heat first. It often works.
 

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I have a problem that I can't find any direct information about on the forums after some initial searching.

I am in the midst of installing engine guards and a skid plate (Pat Walsh). I tried to remove the the back-most of the two front engine bolts on the right side of the bike using the "wobbly" (rounded) end of a good, Husky 6mm Allen wrench. I've had these allen wrenches for several years and have used them numerous times with never a problem. Until now...

The "wobbly" (rounded) head of the Allen wrench broke off in the head of the screw and it won't come out. I've tried everything I know from magnets to tweezers to a shop vac... NOTHING has worked. :headbang:

I even tried drilling into the center of the broken of Allen wrench, but I couldn't scratch the surface, not even with a diamond-tipped etching tool! Apparently, it is hardened steel or some such.

I've been to Sears, Lowe's and Autozone looking for potential solutions.

I've bought two different sets of sockets made to remove stripped bolts. The first set's 1/2" (12.5mm) socket went on a *tried* to bite into the bolt head, but it as soon as I put the ratchet handle to it, it just spun. Likewise the 12mm socket in the second set didn't do much better. The 11mm socket (from either set) wouldn't go on the bolt head.

I've also tried first a 13mm and then a 12-mm 12-point, deep socket. They went on... and then just spun. The 6-point equivalents and an 11mm 12-point just wouldn't go on at all.

Yesterday, I had the (less than brilliant?) idea to drill a hole into the head of the bolt just next to the hardened allen wrench head so that I could pry the Allen tip out. After breaking a half dozen bits and then switching to titanium bits, I've only gotten far enough into the bolt head to get to the widest part of the head... and the drill seems unable to get past this point. :yikes:

A Dremel tool doesn't appear likely to help because none of the Dremel bits that I can find are designed to deal with the hardened metal of the Allen wrench. All the cutting wheels I can find seem to have the same issue *and* they are all so large that, even if I *COULD* cut a slot in the top of the screw to use a screwdriver on it, I would have to cut into the metal bracket where the head of the bolt is recessed.

So, now I've got a mess... an engine bolt with a broken-off Allen tip in the head with no visible means of removable (after spending almost $100 on tools, bits and *stuff*...

The nearest Suzuki shop (not the one where I bought the bike) is 40 miles away. There's an independent shop around the corner that I've never used, but I've met the principals and one of them rides a V-Strom. They specialize in dual-sport and off-road. Rumor has it they're good and they work on a number of local Stroms.

Anybody got any recommendations?

:furious::confused:
Did you try an actual diamond dremel bit? Hardened steel or not, diamond is harder. I'd not weaken the bolt itself any further.
 

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I agree w/ Grey Wolf, sounds like "red" lock tight. You need to heat the bolt some to soften the lock tight. With the head of the bolt hot, try not to heat the center too much, you might be able to "pop" out the broken hex w/ a awl.
I've used a good sharp 1/4" chisel to "TAP" the outside of the bolt to get it to break loose. It does screw up the bolt head. That's very simular to what Grey Wolf said, just using a 1/4" chisel.
Good luck.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A chisel or flat blade screwdriver is the usual tool for the edge rap trick. In this case, the bolt head is buried in the frame casting so an awl or ice pick takes less room to avoid marring the aluminum. Heat is the key.
 

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Another tip I have used on the odd occasion to remove broken thread Taps from a hole is to hit hard and fast with a cutting torch,something I am sure any welder would be familier with ... the Ball end is loose from the head of the screw so when you hit with heat from the torch it does not transfer to the head of the bolt ,but again only someone quallified to do the job should attempt .... the second bonus to this is you now have a great heating devise in your hands to heat up that bolt and you will probably be able to use a proper hex socket to remove it ... also not a good idea to weld on bike without disconnecting all electrical units ,esp the ECU... best of luck :thumbup:
 

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I've used the Greywolf method of bolt removal a lot when I used to work. Getting a good
angle in the bolt helps as does heat.
An awkward position makes it even more tedious.
I've twisted allen Wrenches into spirals before but never broke one...Good Luck!
 

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Well i am lost

A: Broken ball end in socket head cap screw

B: Cap screw broken in frame remainder of screw in frame.

A: You can get little abrasive disks for your dremel. They are delicate and require a steady hand but would have no problem slicing through the hardened ball/socket. Once weakened it should tap or pry out.

B: First is heat, propane torch must get to like 400F to kill locktite. Makes oil smoke would be a good indicator of organic heat level. I doubt you want to get to 600F which would be needed to draw back the steel hardness. The center of a bolt should NOT be very hard as they have tempered them for toughness... Then first shot left handed drill bit about 1/2 the diameter of the bolt.
 

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I've often thought of this but never tried it. After heating the bolt to break it loose, try putting dry ice on the bolt to get it cold quickly and shink it.
 
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