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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a used 2011 dl650a from a dealer 2 days ago. It runs great but has no warranty and the dealer is several hours away. Now the despite (new) battery they just put in, it will not start without a jump. It was starting fine dozens of times over the last two days. I jumped the bike and rode about 45minutes after the first failure just fine but as soon as I turn it off and then try to restart it just tries to turn over once and then whines or clicks each new attempt. It will still start with a jump. I am new to street bikes and have no clue why this is the case can anyone provide some insights? Does the fact that it does not die or loose lights while riding mean it is still charging the battery some?
 

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You first need to find what voltage you do have. A good battery will have about 12.7volts when not running and show 13.5-14volts with the engine running and above idle. Do you have a meter? Many fit a voltmeter to their bike so that they can easily see the system voltage.
If the electrical system checks out next look at the starter switch (RH switchblock), the starter relay, or the large multi connector LH side of the headstock just above the radiator.

Also read this thread: My Bike Won't Start
 

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Check your cables a good and tight, jump the bike and check the voltage at the battery with the motor running.

You want to see over 13.5v

There is a big chance the stator has failed and the bike should not have been sold to you in that state if it has.
 
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Lets hope that is not the case as bobcat says that he purchased with no warranty. Different countries have different consumer laws. Can caveat emptor sometimes apply?
 

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Agree with the others. To perform any meaningful troubleshooting we need to know the voltages.

At the very least:
  • DC Volts (VDC) across the battery terminals with the bike completely off (ignition off)
  • Same, with the ignition on, light on, bike not running
  • Same, with the bike idling (If you have to jump-start the bike from another power source, remove the other power source before taking this measurement.)
  • Same, with at 3000 RPM and 5000 RPM

If you can, the following would also be very, very useful in diagnosis:
  • Remove the fairing, locate the 3 wires coming from the stator and going into the R/R. (On a 1st Gen DL1000 the R/R is under the fairing under your left buttock - don't know for the DL650.) Disconnect the connector at the R/R end, and measure AC Voltage (VAC) across each wire pair with the bike at idle, 3000 and 5000 RPM. (Note: With the R/R connector removed your bike won't get any charge from the charging system. If the battery is completely flat, you may want to jumpstart the bike from another vehicle, and leave the jumper cables in place while taking the measurements.)
  • With the bike completely off (ignition off), measure resistance (Ohms) across each stator wire pair, and from each stator wire to a known good ground (battery negative terminal will do just fine).
 

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Bummer ... but WELCOME to the forum!

All good suggestions above!

The fact that the bike runs after being jumped indicates that the charging system is working I think (I have been wrong before, will see). So I would focus on making sure that the battery terminal connections are clean and tight and the main ground to the engine block is clean and has good tight contact.

And for sure report those battery voltage readings!
 

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If the stator is fried...with a new battery fully charged...the bike will start & run until the battery voltage gets below around 10 volts (ECMs dont like voltage drops)
If the battery was not fully charged but still showed 12 volts just sitting there...the starter might turn over once or mabe twice then....click click. So jumping it will start & run...but not for long.
How do I kno....my 2011 had the dreaded stator/reg/rect issue....& it wasnt covered under the Suzuki stator program (2012 models)
I put in a Ricks stator/reg/rect & things were great again

Sent from my LML212VL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You first need to find what voltage you do have. A good battery will have about 12.7volts when not running and show 13.5-14volts with the engine running and above idle. Do you have a meter? Many fit a voltmeter to their bike so that they can easily see the system voltage.
If the electrical system checks out next look at the starter switch (RH switchblock), the starter relay, or the large multi connector LH side of the headstock just above the radiator.

Also read this thread: My Bike Won't Start
I just bought a new Duralast battery for it. Earlier today it was at 12.9 when not on when idling it would drop to 12.5v and vacillate up and down between 12.4 & 12.5v & later it would drop down and vacillate between 12.3 & 12.4v. When revved it would go up to 13.5 volts.

Oddly:
I just rode for about 2 hours.... now it idles at about 12.4 or 12.5v BUT when revved it was going only to 12.7v. [All measurements in direct current volts. What does that say?

I was relieved until I retested just now. Will the bike being hot affect any of this?

There is some aftermarket heated accessory wired into this bike and I cannot tell if it is on or off. Does that mean anything? I do have a battery tender.

The second photo is the idling reading just now. The third shows the heated accessory and how it is wired in.
275415
275416
275417
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
CORRECTION
I just rode for about 2 hours.... now it idles at about 12.4 or 12.5v BUT when revved it was going only to 13.1v with a sustained rev at about 5,000rpm for about 15-20 seconds. [All measurements in direct current volts.]

Battery terminals differed on the new battery so I had to connect them as in this photo:
275418
20200728_190223.jpg

Old battery fit connectors better:
275419
20200728_190223.jpg
 

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I think your stator is compromised. That after I thought its OK :-(.

When revving to 4k you should see around 14V or more. Being hot and you see not even 13V is a bad sign I think.

You need to follow the BackPacker's suggestions how to test the stator output and resistance to ground.

Take that new battery out again, your old one may be perfectly OK. Did you get it load tested before getting the replacement? You may want to return that new battery, depending on what transpires in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Summary of measurements:
12.5v bike totally off.
12.1v ignition on light on.
Around 12.5v idle
12.9v-13.1v revving up to 5,000rpm for several seconds.
 

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12.9v - 13.1v at 5,000rpm is below spec. Sorry.
It should be 13.8 - 14.0+
This could get expensive. Even though there was no warranty perhaps you should first go back to the dealer in the hope that he is willing to become involved, after all, they knew there was a problem but inferred that it was just a dead battery.
 

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CORRECTION
I just rode for about 2 hours.... now it idles at about 12.4 or 12.5v BUT when revved it was going only to 13.1v with a sustained rev at about 5,000rpm for about 15-20 seconds. [All measurements in direct current volts.]

Battery terminals differed on the new battery so I had to connect them as in this photo:Old battery fit connectors better:
OU, it really does sound like your stator may be the problem. (I had similar sounding issues with mine a year or so back, and lots of very knowledgeable folks on this forum helped me through it. These guys rock!!) Post the stator test results when you can.

Also, take your original battery and your new battery to AutoZone or some similar place. Ask them to load test it. They'll tell you if it is bad. Get them both tested.

Those battery connections look suspect too. Not sure why they appear katty-wompus on the battery posts. Make positively sure those are perfect connections and not loose or allowing current to arc. Personally, I would suggest installingl an aux fuse box and get all the extraneous wires off the battery terminals.

Last, invest in an in-dash voltmeter. While the bike is running or as you are out riding, it will tell you the voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
BackPacker:

Is that the stator wire (plus the two parallel ones in the Back?
OU, it really does sound like your stator may be the problem. (I had similar sounding issues with mine a year or so back, and lots of very knowledgeable folks on this forum helped me through it. These guys rock!!) Post the stator test results when you can.

Also, take your original battery and your new battery to AutoZone or some similar place. Ask them to load test it. They'll tell you if it is bad. Get them both tested.

Those battery connections look suspect too. Not sure why they appear katty-wompus on the battery posts. Make positively sure those are perfect connections and not loose or allowing current to arc. Personally, I would suggest installingl an aux fuse box and get all the extraneous wires off the battery terminals.

Last, invest in an in-dash voltmeter. While the bike is running or as you are out riding, it will tell you the voltage.
Thanks. Th old battery was on a charger for hours and only got to 12.08v despite being in the green. The connections on the old one fit better but the parts store pulled the battery based on the model and year so not sure what to do about the odd fit w/new battery.

If I get this fixed I will put a volt meter on it.

Is it possible this bike already has a series r/r which is preventing the voltage from jumping up beyond about 13.1v while revving? The battery seems to keep going with ignition and riding.... but idles at 12.5v and revs only to a max of 13.2v. It only hit 13.5 earlier perhaps because I had the store charge the brand new battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think your stator is compromised. That after I thought its OK :-(.

When revving to 4k you should see around 14V or more. Being hot and you see not even 13V is a bad sign I think.

You need to follow the BackPacker's suggestions how to test the stator output and resistance to ground.

Take that new battery out again, your old one may be perfectly OK. Did you get it load tested before getting the replacement? You may want to return that new battery, depending on what transpires in the end.
Not load tested but it would not charge over 12.08v at a motorcycle shop. Do you think a series r/r regulator could be why it does not really exceed 13.1v while revving? I stumbled onto a comment in another thread about them keeping voltage down and protecting the stator.
 

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OU, even if you already had a series R/R, I doubt it would keep your voltage that low. When I found that my stator was burned, I replaced the R/R too, with a newer series option simply because I wanted one. Watching my in-dash volt meter now, it is always over 14 when riding. It will drop to a lower 13 reading when at idle.

You can test the stator and the R/R to learn if you need one or both. Read Regulator testing procedure? There are a bunch more sites that discuss these tests too. Let us know what you find.
 
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