StromTrooper banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,

I am installing the Cyclone 866F on my Strom 650, and have run into a big fat ugly roadblock. The first step in the instructions is to tap into the ignition wire, and the rest involves getting power form the battery and rerouting the kill switch circuit through the alarm itself. Those connections seem to work fine...but the ignition one is giving me a headache.

I soldered the ignition wire back together, only this time with one of the wires leading to the alarm included in the mix. The alarm itself is NOT plugged in, and thus NOT drawing any power from anywhere.

However, my ignition no longer works. I turn the key and...nothing. No headlights, no dash lights. Fuse is ok, solder is tight.

Only 2 wires were cut in this whole process, so I know I'm not missing a ghost wire somewhere.

Anybody have any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Can you post up the circuit diagram and a few photo's of your work? If everything is wired right it should work fine unless you used too much heat and melted something in the ignition switch (unlikely).

Because you mentioned that this is a kill switch and that the alarm is not in the circuit yet, you may be unable to start the bike because the alarm unit is required to complete the circuit. It could simply be an open circuit. Hope this is helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
http://www.freymoto.com/media/866F_Install_Guide_FreyMoto.pdf

Here is the link to the alarm instructions. Page 7 has the diagram that ought to explain what I have done.

Basically, 3 connections had to be made aside from the ones to power the alarm. The first is the ignition interface (the key), which means tapping into the ignition wire. This I did, and with this connection the problem lies. With or without the alarm plugged in, the circuit somehow is not completing.

The other connections to be made were at the engine kill switch. I cut the wire leading from the kill switch to main bike power, and soldered two wires (green and white from the alarm harness) to either end of the cut, thereby rerouting that circuit through the alarm itself. Problem is, I can't even test that until the ignition starts working again.

My idea is to not cut ignition wires to install an alarm, but that's just me and I'm frumpy. ;-)
If I want the starter immobilizer to work if my key got stolen, then I have to cut the ignition wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,096 Posts
It should not matter but instead of taping the ignition wire you could tap any switched source including the factory grip option plug or the horn wire.

It seems your wiring is correct. Perhaps the relay in the alarm head that completes the circuit for the kill switch is not working. It's obvious that the blue wire is used to trigger the relay which in turn should complete the circuit. It is a simple arrangement but it will not work without power to the blue wire and a ground on the other side of the relay. It looks like that ground is provided by the common connection of the alarm to the negative terminal of the battery. Are all your connections solid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well, I tested the actual alarm plugged in, and everything works there as it should. This is starting to be irritating.

The connections are all solid. I just finished taking the whole thing off and sticking everything as it was, but to no avail. Something is very fishy about all of this. Is there some other spot where I might experience ignition troubles?
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
Have you checked the bike's fuses?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, I checked the ignition fuse, and even swapped it with the spare to be safe. All looks to be well there, especially considering I pulled it out before I began soldering.

About the main fuse...where is it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,096 Posts
From the service manual...sorry the diagram would not copy:
FUSES
The main fuse is located under the
seat. One 30A spare fuse is located
inside the fuse box.
The fuses are located under the seat.
One 10A and one 15A spare fuses
are provided inside the fuse box.

30A MAIN fuse protects all electrical
circuits.
15A HEAD-HI fuse protects the
headlight high beam and high
beam indicator light.
15A HEAD-L0 fuse protects the
headlight low beam.
10A FUEL fuse protects instrument
panel illumination lights, fuel
pump and injector.
10A IGNITION fuse protects the
ignition coil and ECU.
15A SIGNAL fuse protects the
turn signal light, brakeltaillight,
instrument panel light and indicator
lights.
15A FAN fuse protects cooling fan
motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
That certainly isn't what I am seeing. In my fuse box are 8 fuses, as follows:

10A ignition
10A fuel
15A headlight high
15A headlight low
15A fan
15A signal
15A spare
10A spare

The only place I see any 30A fuses are right at the starter relay, and both are just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
AHA! FIXED!

After all this time. I knew it would be the dumbest thing ever, and it was. The ground and live wires leading to the ignition module were swapped...
:headbang:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Simply because yours truly is a dingus.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top