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My 2011 650 has been rock solid reliable from when I got it in 2015 with 9,000 miles until this year with 30,000 miles. I've started to have a few electrical issues crop up. It has a marine fuse block added by a previous owner. The foglight/GPS circuit cuts out when I turn the handlebars to the left. This has been an issue since last fall. A few weeks ago the ABS light stayed on and I found both fuses to be blown. This weekend when looking for why the auxiliary powerlet socket was not working I found that the fan fuse was blown. It's been cold out so the lack of a fan didn't affect the bikes running. The issue with the powerlet is just that the contacts in the outlet need some bending in. The ABS and fan fuses may have blown at the same time. The ABS system has been functional with no warning lights for the past 100 miles. My question is how do I start to track down these electrical issues? I've always been intimidated by the thought of removing the fairing. I probably need to remove the fairing to track down the foglight issue. There is probably a crimped wire somewhere.

I'm starting to loose faith in what has been my go to bike for travel or cold/rainy weather. How hard is it to remove the fairing? Could the ABS and fan issue have been from a one time power surge? How should I go about diagnosing that?
 

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My 2011 650 has been rock solid reliable from when I got it in 2015 with 9,000 miles until this year with 30,000 miles. I've started to have a few electrical issues crop up. It has a marine fuse block added by a previous owner. The foglight/GPS circuit cuts out when I turn the handlebars to the left. This has been an issue since last fall. A few weeks ago the ABS light stayed on and I found both fuses to be blown. This weekend when looking for why the auxiliary powerlet socket was not working I found that the fan fuse was blown. It's been cold out so the lack of a fan didn't affect the bikes running. The issue with the powerlet is just that the contacts in the outlet need some bending in. The ABS and fan fuses may have blown at the same time. The ABS system has been functional with no warning lights for the past 100 miles. My question is how do I start to track down these electrical issues? I've always been intimidated by the thought of removing the fairing. I probably need to remove the fairing to track down the foglight issue. There is probably a crimped wire somewhere.



I'm starting to loose faith in what has been my go to bike for travel or cold/rainy weather. How hard is it to remove the fairing? Could the ABS and fan issue have been from a one time power surge? How should I go about diagnosing that?
Removing the fairing isn't particularly difficult, but it uses an annoyingly large number of similar but not identical screws, so keep track of which goes where. The few plastic "rivets" are released by pushing the center room in farther (I use a tiny Allen wrench to do this). Then to reinstall them, you pull that center pin way back out, put the rivet in place, and push the pin back flush with the surface. Easier to do than to describe .

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Removing the fairing is the least of your issues here. A lot of your wiring goes under the fuel tank as well so that may have to be removed in order to source the issue. Get a multimeter, remove all of the fairings and fuel tank and start checking your wiring looms. I've had my 2010 for 3 years and placed 30000 miles on it. I've had a stator go on me but never a fuse. There is likely a short in the system somewhere and it's going to take time to locate it. If you lose gps and fog lights when you turn your handle bars then that's likely to be the first place I would start looking in your position.

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Troubleshooting electrical work needs to proceed in a methodical way, from one end of the circuit to the other. Lights cutting out because the handlebars are turned suggests a loose connector so visually follow the wires from the lights back toward the fusebox. It is not likely that the problem is any farther aft than the fuel tank, since the turning of the forks is probably putting tension on the wires in that area.

Whenever you are troubleshooting someone else's work, you need to look at the big picture of what he/she did. Were the appropriate wires used (sized for the fuse?). Were they run neatly and protected by plastic or woven loom or are they simply two wires fished from one end of the bike to the other? If things look good, they probably are, otherwise I would be tempted to replace the questionable work.

Do a search in the search box for fairing removal and read those threads. It is best if you know the technique because there are small plastic tabs that can easily be broken off. The general procedure is to remove screws, pull the body part outward at the bottom, and slide it forward (or aft). Pulling out separates pieces of velcro, sliding disengages the plastic hooks from slots in the adjoining fairing piece.
 

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The first place to start with any electrical problem on a bike is the battery.

The cables can work loose at the battery and unlike a car the bike will start fine, ensure they are clean and tight.

You could be chasing a rubbed wire or it could be a simple as the lower voltage and higher amps caused by a poor connection is causing the fuses to fail.

Check all earths, connectors & pinch points that you can find before you start to remove and body parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I rode the bike a bit yesterday. The fan fuse is not re-blowing. Same with the ABS ones. For now I'll chalk it up to a one time power surge.
 

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No such thing as a power surge. A fuse blows when the current in the circuit exceeds the fuses ability to handle that current, ie, to many loads on a fuse or a power wire down stream from the fuse touches ground momentarily. Sometimes the items (loads) connected to a fuse will be draw enough current to operate at or near the fuse's rating and a small intermittent connection will cause additional resistance in the circuit which will cause more current to flow and exceed the fuses current carrying capacity, blowing the fuse. A fuse can also become weak from age or vibration, especially when run at or near it's capacity. Changing the fuse will appear to fix the problem for a while.
 

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Troubleshooting electrical work needs to proceed in a methodical way, from one end of the circuit to the other. Lights cutting out because the handlebars are turned suggests a loose connector so visually follow the wires from the lights back toward the fusebox. It is not likely that the problem is any farther aft than the fuel tank, since the turning of the forks is probably putting tension on the wires in that area.

Whenever you are troubleshooting someone else's work, you need to look at the big picture of what he/she did. Were the appropriate wires used (sized for the fuse?). Were they run neatly and protected by plastic or woven loom or are they simply two wires fished from one end of the bike to the other? If things look good, they probably are, otherwise I would be tempted to replace the questionable work.

Do a search in the search box for fairing removal and read those threads. It is best if you know the technique because there are small plastic tabs that can easily be broken off. The general procedure is to remove screws, pull the body part outward at the bottom, and slide it forward (or aft). Pulling out separates pieces of velcro, sliding disengages the plastic hooks from slots in the adjoining fairing piece.

I'm in the middle of troubleshooting just this. Headlights were turning off, and the starter was hesitating for a few seconds of holding the switch before clicking on and turning over easily.

I pulled off the fairings, took off the tank, and only have the airbox in the way. From looking down at the panel of connectors, it looks to be the black connector with the orange wires on the back of the radiator that is causing the problems. Issue is, after poking it, and having the lights turn on/off several times, I don't actually see anything loose with it, and the lights won't turn on at all anymore.

Frustrating...

Image included for reference; from the right side, behind the radiator.

268289
 

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Sorry, I haven't read the whole thing. It does sound more like burned contacts in the right switch pod. The start button switch has contacts for both the starter and headlights.
 

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I agree with slovcan. This is a common fault. Look here. Starter switch repair

And for a with pictures repair procedure: Start Switch Maintenance

I got home today and still had some time to poke around. I've had to open up the starter switch for exactly this reason before, but I was doubtful. After doing everything listed, and replacing the fuel tank so I could attempt to start the bike, I hooked the battery up to a trickle charger as it had died when I last worked on it.

After enough juice was in, I tried to get things running, but the front lights would not turn on at all, and could only have the starter turn over for a brief few seconds while wiggling the main cable which runs to the connector behind the radiator.

Unfortunately, while wiggling that, I guess something must be shorting within the connector, because it seemed like the battery died all at once.
I've run the power down enough times previously to know that dying with the rpm and speedo needles still halfway up is not normal. It was completely dead.

At that point, the only thing being fiddled with was the wire leading into that connector.

It looks like I'll need to take off the tank again, and see about actually removing the airbox so I can get a better access to the connector, and see about switching it.
 

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So how much power is in your battery? All sorts of strange things can occur with battery issues.
Maybe you have a short in the wiring but you cannot get anywhere unless you have a good and fully charged battery.
Looking back to your first post you talked about lights and GPS going out when you turned the bars to the left, fuses blowing, and then more items going out.

The possibly faulty orange wire you mentioned in post #9 comes from your fuse box and goes to your starter button, ignition switch and via the large plug to your horn. If wiggling it creates electrical issues you need to remove/get to it and check the wire and the plug.

Have you opened the large plug by the head stock and inspected the terminals for corrosion or arcing?
Do the same to every plug and connection you can find.
 

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So how much power is in your battery? All sorts of strange things can occur with battery issues.
Maybe you have a short in the wiring but you cannot get anywhere unless you have a good and fully charged battery.
Looking back to your first post you talked about lights and GPS going out when you turned the bars to the left, fuses blowing, and then more items going out.

The possibly faulty orange wire you mentioned in post #9 comes from your fuse box and goes to your starter button, ignition switch and via the large plug to your horn. If wiggling it creates electrical issues you need to remove/get to it and check the wire and the plug.

Have you opened the large plug by the head stock and inspected the terminals for corrosion or arcing?
Do the same to every plug and connection you can find.
I've started my own thread over at

Didn't really plan on hi-jacking Keithert's problems like this!
 
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