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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve run into a problem that I can’t solve and was hoping someone might have run across something similar. My main 30a fuse on the starter relay blows whenever the key is turned to the on position. It does not blow with the key off. It also blows when every other fuse is removed, and every auxiliary thing is disconnected. I replaced the starter relay and it still does it, so that’s not the issue. I think something happened when I had a dying battery, but I can’t figure out what the heck is causing the issue. Any ideas?
 

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I would suspect a dead short/broken wire in the harness of that circuit. Pull the tank off and trace that wire from the ignition down to the the big white plug on the left side of the frame looking for a pinch point where it may have gotten smashed by the triple tree. also pull that big white plug apart and see if you have any burned contacts in there. It could be the ignition switch itself, but I have not heard/read of that yet.

An electrical diagram would also help if you have access to one so you can know what color(s) wire to follow.
 

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An indicator bulb with a wire connected across / to each side of the 30A fuse connectors, will show a person as soon as the fault has cleared or still a short circuit present. The bulb will glow when any current flows. This will save on fuses while locating the fault.
 

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"bulb will glow when any current flows"

Yah, a sacrificial brake bulb with some wires soldered to it.
It will magically go out when the the shorted section gets loose from the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I used the light bulb trick and the following happened:

Normal state was bulb glows brightly.

I started disconnecting random things until something different happened.

Disconnecting the harness that leads to the starter switch on the handlebar caused it to do something different, the bulb went bright and then kind of acted like a turn signal, or kind of like the hazards were on. When I also removed the flasher relay the light went dim, but still on.

So this state is only with the ignition switch harness to the handlebar disconnected and flasher relay removed.

So now I'm really confused.
 

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Wes, dont be confused.
Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery. Make sure all fuses are in place.
Place the test lamp between the disconnected negative cable and its battery terminal. Leave key in the OFF position.
In my '14 DL1K service manual wiring schematic, the battery feeds the starter motor relay's 30A fuse. From there it feeds the voltage regulator/rectifier, the main fuse block, and the ignition switch(to power the position bulb in the headlamp assembly). The wire from the starter motor relay to power these items is Black with a Red stripe.

1st thing: Disconnect the regulator/rectifier. Remove ALL the fuse block fuses. If you can, purchase a cheap 2-terminal automotive turn signal flasher relay from an auto parts store, wire it between the battery and the disconnected battery cable. This will save you from replacing that 30A fuse --the turn signal relay will just click on/off/on/off until the short is disconnected.
Most of these Suzuki wiring diagrams are similar. Not everything runs through the main fuse block, and if the 30A starter relay pops, you KNOW a lighter fuse in the fuse block will have popped before that.
Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier 1st, then let me know if that was the short. If not we'll go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so I've done some more work and I've isolated it to somewhere in the left handlebar switch cluster down. If I disconnect that 8 wire plug it goes away. Could it be the relay that's bad? Even with the switch completely disassembled and the guts hanging out it still does it. There's no sign of any damage.

**EDIT** Just saw the above, let me try that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So when I disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier, it still has the issue. Also does it with every fuse in the fuse block removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There is no way a switch is carrying 30A. If a 30A fuse blew, the circuit exceeded 30 amps. There are only a few wires that are rated for that much current.
Thats what I was thinking. But the only way I've been able to eliminate the problem is by disconnecting that left handle bar switch. Everything else is either full short or weird flashing of the test light. Another thing, with everything connected and the test light in place of the 30A, pressing the starter switch causes the light to blink. It blinks at a slightly different rate with the kill switch on and with it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
And another thing... the light flashes quickly but all the relays are silent when the key is put into park. It has to be on that main Black/red wire somewhere. And the only thing that stops it is disconnecting the left handlebar switch...
 

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Different rate with the kill switch could be no ignition power with it turned to the .."kill" position.
If you have the wiring diagram and a multimeter, you could check for switch operation looking for continuity as you operate the switches and checking for a power-to-ground short, i.e.having continuity when you shouldnt
If the switch checks , then you have an issue from the switch to the main harness--or what the switch is supposed to operate. How does that harrness look at the steering head or where it is held to the frame in that area?
 

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Wes, NOBODY can tell you exactly what the issue is from long-distance. The best any body can do is assisting you in the diagnosis. Random parts replacement doesnt count.
You could easily have a chafed wire, a grounded wire or component, a melted connector bring power directly to a ground...or something altogether different.I realize that is of little help to you. But what IS help is isolating the circuit, seeing where the power from the starter relay goes, disconnecting the branches of that circuit to pinpoint the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wes, NOBODY can tell you exactly what the issue is from long-distance. The best any body can do is assisting you in the diagnosis. Random parts replacement doesnt count.
You could easily have a chafed wire, a grounded wire or component, a melted connector bring power directly to a ground...or something altogether different.I realize that is of little help to you. But what IS help is isolating the circuit, seeing where the power from the starter relay goes, disconnecting the branches of that circuit to pinpoint the ground.
Totally. I definitely don't think anyone should be able to solve this issue from afar. I definitely appreciate the sounding board though. I was hoping initially that this was something that symptomatically had happened before and there would be a clear culprit, but it doesn't seem to be the case.

I think that what I've found so far is this:

There aren't any obviously damaged connectors or any signs of rubbed wires... I haven't stripped open the whole wiring harness to follow each individual wire, but I'm thinking that it's a safe assumption that doing so wouldn't lead to anything productive.

The problem can be removed by disconnecting the yellow connector for the left handlebar switch assembly.

Jumping each individual wire in that harness does not recreate the issue, so it's a combination of two or more of those wires that are completing the grounded circuit, I think.

I think the next step might be to jump the power wire and then jump each individual wire at the same time to see if I can isolate to one individual circuit.

Let me know if I'm missing anything.
 

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based on the first post in this thread, and I don't think I've seen it mentioned, if it has, forgive me, my reading comprehension sucks.


I would suspect the ignition switch itself, an internal short, the switch itself is expensive enough, if you want matching keys, bend over, I still use my original key for my tank, seat & helmet lock,

both my Suzukies, my SV650 and my DL1000, the ignition switch has been replaced
 

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You did mention in a early post you had battery problems.

Have you checked it is installed correctly, if your battery is fitted backwards it will blow the main fuse.

I'm not sure what years were affected but some 650's had wires rub through on the frame in the left side just below your left bum cheek.

Other than that if I'm reading this correctly it must be something powered from the left switch block.

PS; Your globe can glow if it is used as a fuse on a lighting circuit because it can find a earth through the filament of a globe in the bikes system, because of resistance it is often a poor earth so you get a dull test globe.

The size of the globe can change things, a bigger globe will require more power and a better earth to get a result.

I prefer to start with a small buzzer/horn over a globe because it requires more power and a better earth to activate & you hear it when moving things around.
 

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Wes, just asking....
I looked at a pic of your left handlebar switch, it appears to me to be part of the headlamp circuit. Did you by chance disconnect the headlamps to see if the short disappears?
Do you have a multi-meter? Small jumper wires? A wiring diagram in a service manual?
2 wires in that switch assembly are for the clutch switch. Are the wires going to the yellow connector considerably larger in diameter than those? How many wires are in that yellow connector? I'm trying to identify the circuit in that connector. The color codes of rhe connector wires and those in the mating harness connector would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There are 8 wires in that connector, and yes on the wiring diagram it’s in the lower left hand corner. I hadn’t thought to pull a bulb yet. Some of the wires are larger than others.

I do have all of those tools mentioned.

So there are some wires that tie in to the lights and some that go over to the starting circuit, which could be why I was getting weird activity on that side of the bike.

For the other comments... yes battery is in correctly, had to double check... leave no stone unturned. The bulb I’m using is an 8w I stole from an old 70s car harness. When the issue drops out, the bulb glows faintly. When it manifests it’s bright, so there’s that.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
And the ignition switch... yea I’m dreading that. I think I need to run diagnostic on that plug to see if that might be the issue.
 

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Wes, I also have 8 wires in a connector running to the left handlebar switch. In my diagram I'm showing turn signal, dimmer & passing switch, and clutch switch. Can you by chance give me color codes of the wiring on the switch side of that yellow connector?
 
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