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WeeStrom 2
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
It's either a worn out battery simply from age, or it's got that way from insufficient charging voltage. Only way to find out is with a new battery.

Another reason I'm hoping to get a Wee3: built-in voltage meter. When I thought I would be buying the 2015, I was dreading the thought of running wires for one. No, it's not the most challenging modification, but I had my fill of constant projects on the 2007 Vee. I want a Vstrom I can simply go ride.
:) I am having a hoot on the WeeStrom, I changed over from a Yamaha YZF600 a few months ago. The Yammie was a great bike, but not relaxing - very racing position, stiff arms, had to be watching it the whole time - very responsive, but not terribly stable. The WeeStrom is so gentle and nice to ride, and you can just go have fun - loving it. I have put Bluetooth on the helmet to listen to music as I ride - just brilliant!
I'm aiming to go off road and camping, but I need to get a few things sorted on it yet.
I can understand why you wouldn;t want to do it all again if you have already been down the track on your old Vee ...
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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3,306 Posts
I have seriously considered ordering a new Wee3. However I suspect I will be told that it wouldn't be here until January next year, or later. That was the case for the KTM 890.

Our Suzuki dealer isn't open again until tomorrow, so maybe I'll call them then & ask, just for giggles.

I sure picked the wrong time to be in the market for a new or Vstrom.

However...there is quite a lot of 2017-2020 used DL650 inventory, including quite a few in Arizona and the nearer reaches of Texas. If I can't find anything closer, those are options. Tucson for example isn't next door, but it's close enough I can figure something out, without resorting to one of the "allow 6-8 weeks for delivery" motorcycle shippers.
 

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WeeStrom 2
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have seriously considered ordering a new Wee3. However I suspect I will be told that it wouldn't be here until January next year, or later. That was the case for the KTM 890.

Our Suzuki dealer isn't open again until tomorrow, so maybe I'll call them then & ask, just for giggles.

I sure picked the wrong time to be in the market for a new or Vstrom.

However...there is quite a lot of 2017-2020 used DL650 inventory, including quite a few in Arizona and the nearer reaches of Texas. If I can't find anything closer, those are options. Tucson for example isn't next door, but it's close enough I can figure something out, without resorting to one of the "allow 6-8 weeks for delivery" motorcycle shippers.
I don't know that the VStrom would be any worse than the other manufacturers - they've all been hit by chip shortages and transport problems, haven't they? The Stroms are so reliable that getting a pre loved bike is not such a risk compared with other types. At least that's what I told myself!
 

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Rather than worrying about how much current each component uses, just keep an eye on the bike's voltmeter.

While riding at about four thousand RPM:
1. If the voltage is higher than 14.4 volts, the voltage regulator in the regulator/rectifier is bad and needs replacement. If not taken care of, additional problems will soon follow.

2. If the voltage is less than 13.8 volts while running accessories, you are overloading the electrical system. Turn off/reduce power setting of accessories to maintain adequate voltage. If not taken care of, the battery will run down. The lower the voltage the faster the discharge. If you turn off all accessories and the low voltage persists, there is likely a problem with alternator stator, loose magnets, dirty wiring connectors or rectifier diodes.

If your bike doesn't have a voltmeter, you need to install one. Otherwise you have no idea what the electrical system is doing until you can't start the bike or coast to a stop at the side of the road.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Yep, that's another reason I passed on the Wee2 and am angling for a Wee3. Built in volt meter from the start. Should be a standard feature on every motorcycle.

Given how manufacturers have trended towards electronic instrument panels, it ought to be almost free to include a voltage readout.
 

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Premium Member
WeeStrom 2
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Rather than worrying about how much current each component uses, just keep an eye on the bike's voltmeter.

While riding at about four thousand RPM:
1. If the voltage is higher than 14.4 volts, the voltage regulator in the regulator/rectifier is bad and needs replacement. If not taken care of, additional problems will soon follow.

2. If the voltage is less than 13.8 volts while running accessories, you are overloading the electrical system. Turn off/reduce power setting of accessories to maintain adequate voltage. If not taken care of, the battery will run down. The lower the voltage the faster the discharge. If you turn off all accessories and the low voltage persists, there is likely a problem with alternator stator, loose magnets, dirty wiring connectors or rectifier diodes.

If your bike doesn't have a voltmeter, you need to install one. Otherwise you have no idea what the electrical system is doing until you can't start the bike or coast to a stop at the side of the road.
The PO installed a voltmeter, having played with it, it is consistently under reading by 0.5V compared with the voltage across the battery terminals ... so make sure you know where the voltmeter is reading!
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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I'm guessing PO used whatever small-gauge wire was lying around, and/or wired in the connection for the voltmeter somewhere down the harness.

When I wired mine, I used 16 ga. wire directly to my accessory fuse panel. Less than 0.1V drop from the battery terminals, not measurable except by a fancier multimeter.
 

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I have a 2017 Wee, and I found that with the stock halogen lights, when I wore my heated jacket and gloves, I was running out of wattage (voltage would drop to 13.8 or so). I've done the following, and now all is well:
1) Replaced headlight with LEDs for both low and high beam. I used ones from Amazon that don't need fans, etc. and fit just fine. The brand was LASTFIT and they have H9 and H7 bulbs.
2) Replaced the front parking bulb with a 1W LED.
2) Replaced the turn signal bulbs with LEDs. I wanted brighter without more wattage. Again, found on Amazon from Qoope. $17 for 4 amber LEDs and they are really bright.
3) Replaced the R/R with a Compu-Fire equivalent that regulates the voltage by blocking flow from the stator instead of grounding the excess. Again, found on Amazon under the brand Bruce & Shark. Took some work to wire it up since it came with a connector for the stator wires (that didn't match) and just bare wires for the + and - leads.
4) I added a pair of combo led fog/driving lights. The fog lights are controlled by a switch on the handle bar, and the driving lights come on (turning fogs off) when I put on the brights. Lights up all over the place.
5) I installed a Rostra 250-1223 Universal Electronic Cruise Control, which uses some amount of power when it's engaged, never actually measured to see what.
Voltage stays steady at 14.0-14.2 volts no matter what.
 

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WeeStrom 2
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I'm guessing PO used whatever small-gauge wire was lying around, and/or wired in the connection for the voltmeter somewhere down the harness.

When I wired mine, I used 16 ga. wire directly to my accessory fuse panel. Less than 0.1V drop from the battery terminals, not measurable except by a fancier multimeter.
Yeah, I've had a bit of a look to see where the wires go, but I can't trace it without pulling the bike apart.
I'm prob going to do some planning, work out what I want to do, and then pull all the panels off and lay in a bunch of wiring ONCE, with good access, so I can do the connections properly. Until then I'm just gunna ride it and gave fun!
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Sounds familiar. Even after I fixed the charging system on the old Vee, there wasn't quite enough excess power to run all the heated gear I wanted. LED headlamps freed the most power. LED brake lamps squeezed out a few more watts (DL1000 had 2 bulbs to the DL650's one). Didn't bother with the turn signals as they were only intermittent loads.
 

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Premium Member
WeeStrom 2
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I have a 2017 Wee, and I found that with the stock halogen lights, when I wore my heated jacket and gloves, I was running out of wattage (voltage would drop to 13.8 or so). I've done the following, and now all is well:
1) Replaced headlight with LEDs for both low and high beam. I used ones from Amazon that don't need fans, etc. and fit just fine. The brand was LASTFIT and they have H9 and H7 bulbs.
2) Replaced the front parking bulb with a 1W LED.
2) Replaced the turn signal bulbs with LEDs. I wanted brighter without more wattage. Again, found on Amazon from Qoope. $17 for 4 amber LEDs and they are really bright.
3) Replaced the R/R with a Compu-Fire equivalent that regulates the voltage by blocking flow from the stator instead of grounding the excess. Again, found on Amazon under the brand Bruce & Shark. Took some work to wire it up since it came with a connector for the stator wires (that didn't match) and just bare wires for the + and - leads.
4) I added a pair of combo led fog/driving lights. The fog lights are controlled by a switch on the handle bar, and the driving lights come on (turning fogs off) when I put on the brights. Lights up all over the place.
5) I installed a Rostra 250-1223 Universal Electronic Cruise Control, which uses some amount of power when it's engaged, never actually measured to see what.
Voltage stays steady at 14.0-14.2 volts no matter what.
Cool, that's pretty similar to my thoughts, though I'm not going to spend the money on a serial R/R until the existing shunt one carks it. I've got a pair of Auxito LED Headlights to replace the originals, and I'm going to put in two pairs of Aux lights - a pair of floodlights to make me more obvious, and a pair of spotlights as driving lights - though I'll prob wait till I've used the LED headlights for a while, I may not need the driving lights.
 

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Premium Member
WeeStrom 2
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Sounds familiar. Even after I fixed the charging system on the old Vee, there wasn't quite enough excess power to run all the heated gear I wanted. LED headlamps freed the most power. LED brake lamps squeezed out a few more watts (DL1000 had 2 bulbs to the DL650's one). Didn't bother with the turn signals as they were only intermittent loads.
I've already bought new LED headlights and tail lights! I had also decided not to replace any other bulbs, 'cause there isn't much load reduction. I'm thinking about using any extra capacity from the shunt regulator to charge an auxiliiary Li Ion battery, but it's prob too much hassle to organise a battery management system that can work out when the R/R has spare current available. So I'll prob leave it there for now, though I will be putting in a Beaver fuse box, an ABS switch, prob some Aux driving lights, and doing some checking and rewiring to make the bike more reliable. Got heated grips, not going further than that.
Just want to get myself sorted so I only have to pull the bike apart once ...
 
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