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WeeStrom 2
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've recently got myself into a sorta stock 2016 WeeStrom. I'm looking to add some farkles, so I thought I would try to baseline the existing electrical loads first, to see how far I can go with add ons. I know there has been a lot of other posts about this sort of thing, but I haven't seen a lot of actual data, so I thought I would take some measurements ... presented here for general use. Used a cheap Jaycar clamp on ammeter and the PO's el cheapo voltmeter display.
My bike has Oxford heated grips and a USB output / voltmeter from the PO, but that's all the electrical stuff.

Item........................................... Load @ Idle ........... Load at 3000 rpm ...............Load at 5000 rpm

Single headlight - Low Beam 3.6A 3.6A 3.6A
Single headlight - High Beam 4.1A 4.1A 4.1A
Single Indicator 2.1A Max 2.1A Max 2.1A Max
Tail Light 0.4A 0.4A 0.4A
Brake Light 1.2A 1.2A 1.2A
License Plate Light 0.2A 0.2A 0.2A
Instrument Cluster 6.5A Max 6.5A Max 6.5A Max
Fuel Pump (Continuous) 2.3A 2.3A 2.3A
Fuel Pump (Max) 3.8A 3.8A 3.8A
Oxford Heated Grips 1.8A Max 1.8A Max 1.8A Max

Regulator Current Output (Total) 24.7A 28.5A 31.2A

Battery charging Current 8.1 A 11.9A 13.1A

The heated grips seemed to have a square wave, so at 100% they would have 1.8A all the time, at lower %s they would be at 1.8A for a fraction of a second then drop down to 0A. The % of time they spent at 1.8A got higher with the higher % heating selected.

The voltage was displayed on the PO's little voltmeter display, which I think was the Regulator voltage:

Idle (1500 to 2000 rpm) 12.8V DC
3000 rpm 13.4 V DC
5000 rpm 13.5 V DC

I might try to check some of the above measurements, because there are a couple of things I don't understand
1. The lighting currents were the same at all throttle settings - I would have thought the current would drop as the voltage went up for higher throttle settings
2. I measured 31.2A total regulator output at 5000 rpm, where the output voltage is 13.5 VDC - that's 420 W. The regulator is only supposed to be a 380W device ...

It was good to see the battery charging even at Idle.

From all above, I reckon it is worthwhile replacing the stock headlamps and brake / tail light with LEDs, and that should give me enough spare capacity to run spot and flood auxilliary lights.
I'm still a bit suss about the ammeter I was using - I want to double check the above with another meter ...

Comments / corrections on all above welcome!
 

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WeeStrom 2
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Repost to improve the data format.

I've recently got myself into a sorta stock 2016 WeeStrom. I'm looking to add some farkles, so I thought I would try to baseline the existing electrical loads first, to see how far I can go with add ons. I know there has been a lot of other posts about this sort of thing, but I haven't seen a lot of actual data, so I thought I would take some measurements ... presented here for general use. Used a cheap Jaycar clamp on ammeter and the PO's el cheapo voltmeter display.
My bike has Oxford heated grips and a USB output / voltmeter from the PO, but that's all the electrical stuff.

Item........................................... Load @ Idle ........... Load at 3000 rpm ...............Load at 5000 rpm

Single headlight - Low Beam......... 3.6A ............................ 3.6A .................................. 3.6A
Single headlight - High Beam......... 4.1A ............................ 4.1A .................................. 4.1A
Single Indicator.............................. 2.1A Max .................... 2.1A Max .......................... 2.1A Max
Tail Light.......................................... 0.4A ............................ 0.4A .................................. 0.4A
Brake Light..................................... 1.2A ............................ 1.2A .................................. 1.2A
License Plate Light......................... 0.2A ............................ 0.2A .................................. 0.2A
Instrument Cluster.......................... 6.5A Max .................. 6.5A Max .......................... 6.5A Max
Fuel Pump (Continuous)................ 2.3A ............................ 2.3A .................................. 2.3A
Fuel Pump (Max)............................ 3.8A ............................ 3.8A ................................. 3.8A
Oxford Heated Grips.....................1.8A Max .................... 1.8A Max .......................... 1.8A Max

Regulator Current Output (Total) ..... 24.7A ........................ 28.5A ................................ 31.2A

Battery charging Current ................. 8.1 A ........................ 11.9A .................................. 13.1A

The heated grips seemed to have a square wave, so at 100% they would have 1.8A all the time, at lower %s they would be at 1.8A for a fraction of a second then drop down to 0A. The % of time they spent at 1.8A got higher with the higher % heating selected.

The voltage was displayed on the PO's little voltmeter display, which I think was the Regulator voltage:

Idle (1500 to 2000 rpm) 12.8V DC
3000 rpm .......................... 13.4 V DC
5000 rpm .......................... 13.5 V DC

I might try to check some of the above measurements, because there are a couple of things I don't understand
1. The lighting currents were the same at all throttle settings - I would have thought the current would drop as the voltage went up for higher throttle settings
2. I measured 31.2A total regulator output at 5000 rpm, where the output voltage is 13.5 VDC - that's 420 W. The regulator is only supposed to be a 380W device ...

It was good to see the battery charging even at Idle.

From all above, I reckon it is worthwhile replacing the stock headlamps and brake / tail light with LEDs, and that should give me enough spare capacity to run spot and flood auxilliary lights.
I'm still a bit suss about the ammeter I was using - I want to double check the above with another meter ...

Comments / corrections on all above welcome!
 

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WeeStrom 2
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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I've got an '04 650 with 100K miles on it. I have mounted a digital volt meter and runs at 14.5 volts above an idle. I did install the headlight Leds and put in a Eastern Beaver headlight cut off switch.
When I had some cheap-o running lights they were halogen and drew too much power. I got some equally cheap-o Leds and the volt meter stays in the happy range. Only problem with the cheap-o Led running lights is they get crushed easily when I fall over due to the mounting point. They only suffer so many straightening outs before they are ruined.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Is 12.8V at idle low for a 2016 650A, or normal?

I test-rode a 2015 650A yesterday, which generated 13.4V at idle, 14.2-14.5V at 3000-5000 rpm.

For comparison: my 2007 DL1000, after I replaced the entire charging system, including upgrading to a SH847 R/R, would produce a steady 14.5V from idle on up (assuming no heated gear etc.).

I just measured my girlfriend's 2004 DL650 in the garage. At idle, it's putting 14.6V on the battery.

Did something change about the R/R and/or stator from the Wee to the Wee 2, or does charging voltage of ~13V or less at idle indicate a gradually failing stator?

The DL1000 service manual only gives a charging voltage number at (IIRC) 5000 RPM. However, both times I had a stator burn out, I could tell it was going. Charging voltage would be a healthy 14.5V at 3000+ RPM, but fall below 13V at idle.
 

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WeeStrom 2
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've got an '04 650 with 100K miles on it. I have mounted a digital volt meter and runs at 14.5 volts above an idle. I did install the headlight Leds and put in a Eastern Beaver headlight cut off switch.
When I had some cheap-o running lights they were halogen and drew too much power. I got some equally cheap-o Leds and the volt meter stays in the happy range. Only problem with the cheap-o Led running lights is they get crushed easily when I fall over due to the mounting point. They only suffer so many straightening outs before they are ruined.
Is 12.8V at idle low for a 2016 650A, or normal?

I test-rode a 2015 650A yesterday, which generated 13.4V at idle, 14.2-14.5V at 3000-5000 rpm.

For comparison: my 2007 DL1000, after I replaced the entire charging system, including upgrading to a SH847 R/R, would produce a steady 14.5V from idle on up (assuming no heated gear etc.).

I just measured my girlfriend's 2004 DL650 in the garage. At idle, it's putting 14.6V on the battery.

Did something change about the R/R and/or stator from the Wee to the Wee 2, or does charging voltage of ~13V or less at idle indicate a gradually failing stator?

The DL1000 service manual only gives a charging voltage number at (IIRC) 5000 RPM. However, both times I had a stator burn out, I could tell it was going. Charging voltage would be a healthy 14.5V at 3000+ RPM, but fall below 13V at idle.
Yeah, it seems pretty low, though I haven’t traced exactly where the voltmeter is tapped in. I need to work that out and prob get a real voltmeter on there.
it might be reading after all the switching … still, not great.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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For my observations yesterday I was measuring at a pigtail for a battery tender. So a pretty direct connection to the battery posts. Heavy gauge wire so should have been negligible voltage drop.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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No matter where I look, I cannot locate either an electronic version of the Wee2 service manual, or a quote from the relevant section of same.

I am not going to pay $90+ for a print version of the service manual and wait for it to be mailed, pertaining to a motorcycle I don't even own, so...

Best I can do in the meantime is consult the dead tree version of the original Wee (2004-2011) service manual.

It states that charging voltage should be 14.0-15.5V @ 5000 rpm.

0.2-0.7Ω resistance in each stator winding.

60V+ per stator winding @ 5000 rpm w/engine "cold" (which obviously it isn't if it's running...I suppose they mean right after a cold start.)

Unfortunately, all that is not super helpful. With my 2007 DL1000, I had a dying stator that would still have passed these numbers.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Thanks. Same expected performance as the first gen DL650, then.

I think I'll pass on that used 2015 Wee2 I rode on Friday. While it does produce good charging voltage at speed, 13.4V at idle suggests that the stator is in the process of frying itself. Bike has only ~9400 miles on it. Might take another 10k miles to get really bad, or another 20k. Either way, I don't need to deal with that.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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I informed the seller. Fortunately he didn't seem too upset. I think he genuinely was unaware of the recall. Hope he can get the stator replaced under the recall.

Otherwise, let someone who is into maintenance projects enjoy it.

Meanwhile, a pretty nice looking 2019 650 popped up on the local-ish market, so I'm pursuing that.
 

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WeeStrom 2
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've got an '04 650 with 100K miles on it. I have mounted a digital volt meter and runs at 14.5 volts above an idle. I did install the headlight Leds and put in a Eastern Beaver headlight cut off switch.
When I had some cheap-o running lights they were halogen and drew too much power. I got some equally cheap-o Leds and the volt meter stays in the happy range. Only problem with the cheap-o Led running lights is they get crushed easily when I fall over due to the mounting point. They only suffer so many straightening outs before they are ruined.
I could look for some mil spec lights that will act as crash bars! Nope, stinkin bike already
No matter where I look, I cannot locate either an electronic version of the Wee2 service manual, or a quote from the relevant section of same.

I am not going to pay $90+ for a print version of the service manual and wait for it to be mailed, pertaining to a motorcycle I don't even own, so...

Best I can do in the meantime is consult the dead tree version of the original Wee (2004-2011) service manual.

It states that charging voltage should be 14.0-15.5V @ 5000 rpm.

0.2-0.7Ω resistance in each stator winding.

60V+ per stator winding @ 5000 rpm w/engine "cold" (which obviously it isn't if it's running...I suppose they mean right after a cold start.)

Unfortunately, all that is not super helpful. With my 2007 DL1000, I had a dying stator that would still have passed these numbers.
Yeah, there isn't a lot of free info in PDF, I have found a wiring diagram (which must be for a different year as it isn't 100% accurate for my bike). The displayed voltage seems a bit low, but I'm not sure about the accuracy of the voltmeter itself or where it is measuring - so I'll be doing a bit of digging there. I'll do some checks with the info that you have provided - thanks!
 

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WeeStrom 2
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
From the 2012(-16) DL650 Service Manual:

View attachment 292915
Thanks for that, I also had seen that the R/R was a 380W device at 5000W, but I've seen other sources saying it is more, and the unit on my bike seems to be producing more. I wonder if that is a sign of a fault (regulator set at the wrong output limits), measurement errors, or I just have a good one!
I'll do some more checking, thanks for the info.
 

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WeeStrom 2
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I informed the seller. Fortunately he didn't seem too upset. I think he genuinely was unaware of the recall. Hope he can get the stator replaced under the recall.

Otherwise, let someone who is into maintenance projects enjoy it.

Meanwhile, a pretty nice looking 2019 650 popped up on the local-ish market, so I'm pursuing that.
Yeah, I would have loved to get a Wee3, but there are NO preloved Wee3s avail in Australia - I looked everywhere, and people were just NOT selling them. Prob a good sign for you! I'm really happy with the Wee2 I got, was a bit nervous about the 50 000 km on the odometer, but it is a beautiful bike!
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Re: maximum stator output - I wonder if the service manual figure is overall maximum, or additional load past base load?

Strongly suspect the former. Could be the latter though. However I don't have a good handle on how many watts base load (fuel pump + headlights + ignition) is. Might be able to suss it out with some reasonable assumptions.
 

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WeeStrom 2
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, I would have loved to get a Wee3, but there are NO preloved Wee3s avail in Australia - I looked everywhere, and people were just NOT selling them. Prob a good sign for you! I'm really happy with the Wee2 I got, was a bit nervous about the 50 000 km on the odometer, but it is a beautiful bike!
Hmmm, doing some more checking, the charging current of 8 to 10A fore the battery seems pretty large. I have seen other sources on here saying that 1A is about right. I wonder if the battery is on the fritz? Something else to check.
 

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WeeStrom 2
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: maximum stator output - I wonder if the service manual figure is overall maximum, or additional load past base load?

Strongly suspect the former. Could be the latter though. However I don't have a good handle on how many watts base load (fuel pump + headlights + ignition) is. Might be able to suss it out with some reasonable assumptions.
Have a look at the attached.
It's a .csv Excel fine renamed as .txt, to fit in with the attachment filter here. Will work better if I can DM you the Excel file - how do I do that?

By my guess base electrical load is about 300W at 13.8A, about 22A, though that depends on assumptions - like the 5A I have allowed for battery charging looks to be too high.
 

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WeeStrom 2
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah, it seems pretty low, though I haven’t traced exactly where the voltmeter is tapped in. I need to work that out and prob get a real voltmeter on there.
it might be reading after all the switching … still, not great.
Did another check, the PO Voltmeter consistently reads 0.5V below battery voltage. The battery voltage is all over the place, I think prob the battery is old and is taking a large charging current and not holding voltage very well. I'll have a look to see what a new one costs.
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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3,287 Posts
It's either a worn out battery simply from age, or it's got that way from insufficient charging voltage. Only way to find out is with a new battery.

Another reason I'm hoping to get a Wee3: built-in voltage meter. When I thought I would be buying the 2015, I was dreading the thought of running wires for one. No, it's not the most challenging modification, but I had my fill of constant projects on the 2007 Vee. I want a Vstrom I can simply go ride.
 
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