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Discussion Starter #1
I have two questions regarding adding electrical accessories to the fairing plastic:

1. I have seen a few 12V outlets added to the fairing plastic by drilling a hole but I'm wondering if anyone has added an item to the vertical surface of the fairing plastic - that is, the small space on either side of the instrument cluster. If so, any photos out there?

2. When I install a 12V cig lighter, let's say, is there any point in using the inline fuse that came with it if I'm connecting through the factory accessory connection (which is already fused)? In other words, is there a benefit to having two fuses in that circuit?

I hope some of that made sense ?
 

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YY-Zed - Have you considered an auxiliary shelf from Adventure Tech? See their website at Auxiliary Shelves (main page) - AdventureTech, LLC. You can't go wrong with Rick's products.

To answer your questions, I put a voltmeter on the vertical surface left of the combination meter. Not sure there is enough depth there to put in a power outlet.

When I installed my GPS cradle I used the auxiliary power connector in the right side of the fairing. I left in the cradle fuse because a 3 amp fuse was the requirement for the GPS and I think that is a 10 amp circuit. Better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
YY-Zed - Have you considered an auxiliary shelf from Adventure Tech? See their website at Auxiliary Shelves (main page) - AdventureTech, LLC. You can't go wrong with Rick's products.

To answer your questions, I put a voltmeter on the vertical surface left of the combination meter. Not sure there is enough depth there to put in a power outlet.

When I installed my GPS cradle I used the auxiliary power connector in the right side of the fairing. I left in the cradle fuse because a 3 amp fuse was the requirement for the GPS and I think that is a 10 amp circuit. Better safe than sorry.
Yes I am thinking about the shelf from AdventureTech, but I actually wanted to put my voltmeter up there as you have (with a small on/off switch too). Do you have a photo of it? I know there's a frame bar that you have to avoid back there, so I'd love to see exactly where you put it.

As for the fuse, would the device fuse blow first thus protecting the accessory plug fuse? I think I read somewhere that the accessory plug fuse would stop the bike from running if it blows. Sorry, I'm beyond amateur when it comes to electrical stuff.

Thanks for the "YYZed" :thumbup:, I might add that to my signature line.
 

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The accessory plug fuse does kill the bike if it blows. I carry extra fuses with me, just in case. The only time I've had a problem was at home in my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That looks OEM. It's also right in the centre - I wasn't sure that would work based on what I could feel in behind the panel.

Nice job. I will try to do it as well as you did it although my voltmeter is round rather than rectangular.
 

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I also have the round type of voltmeter and i put mine on the left. This is the best photo I have handy.

Please ignore all the extra holes in my AdventureTech shelf ... it's been subject to a few experiments. Plan to order my final version soon.

You should definitely throw that YYZed in your signature just to keep those of us south of the border on our toes.

 

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Forgot to comment on leaving in the fuse to the GPS circuit. I really just want the additional insurance for the GPS. I splurged on the Garmin 590LM and that thing ain't cheap. The device fuse is just protecting the device branch of the circuit. Without it, some weird, rare, but unpredictable issue (like a manufacturing defect in the cradle) could theoretically send 10 amps down those wires, to the cradle and into the GPS all of which were designed for 3 amps max (plus some safety margin, I'm sure).

If a short occurred elsewhere in that circuit, it would blow the 10 amp fuse shutting the whole circuit down (including the GPS branch).
 

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Last comment ... with some care you can get the combination meter cover off without removing the fairing. That way you get a good look at what's back there without pulling the whole front end off. It's 6 screws and 4 clips all of which are in plain sight. The meter is attached to the cover with two screws which you can remove so that the meter stays in place for perspective or you can unplug it (which will clear your mpg for that tank, if you care about such things).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Last comment ... with some care you can get the combination meter cover off without removing the fairing. That way you get a good look at what's back there without pulling the whole front end off. It's 6 screws and 4 clips all of which are in plain sight. The meter is attached to the cover with two screws which you can remove so that the meter stays in place for perspective or you can unplug it (which will clear your mpg for that tank, if you care about such things).
Thanks for that info, you did a nice job. I am going to check it out today. It's going to be 6°C - wow!

What is the toggle on your fairing for?
 

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The toggle switch is a DPST switch from Eastern Beaver to go with the "H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit with One Headlight Cut Adapter Built in". The relay kit pulls the high amps for the headlights off of the OEM switches/components and runs it through a couple of relays meant to handle that current. I think there are some other threads here on the relay kit. The toggle allows me to turn off one headlight saving 55 Watts on low beam and 60 Watts on high beam. I certainly don't need the power savings now but maybe in the future if I add some auxiliary lighting and/or heated clothing or other power consumers. You can actually also see the Heavy Duty disconnect from EB in that photo as well hiding there under the dash.

Switches

VStrom
 
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