StromTrooper banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Am I off base ? or if this correct:
Each signal light is 21 W x 4 = 81 W
------------------Brake light is 5 W running (21 braking)
----Total (with brake light off) 86 Watts

LED =1 amp = 12 W x 4 = 48 W
LED Brake running =-----? 2 W
total LED W--------------50 Watts

86 standard-50 LED = Savings = 36 W

I guess that would help if true (could add 30 W hot grips, GPS and heated liner 77 W, heated feet inserts 15W =122W total, and leave some life in stator)
(Pardon the dashes- format was funny otherwise)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
412 Posts
That sound right, mathematically, but remember the turn signals are only ON when they are flashing, and the brake light is only ON when using the brake.

So while the savings are good when the lights are ON they aren't really ON that much.

If you are running that close to the edge of the electrical system, I think you would gain more by cutting out one headlight, which is on continuously. So that would be a constant 55W savings (low beam). Here's a link to a cut out switch Suzuki VStrom Electrics.

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
savings

Aren't he front signals on all the time ? (1157?) And the braked running is 5W (brake mode is 21W) I guess I forgot that the rear blinkers are off not blinking (I modified my other ride for always on) so I guess that is a zero saving
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
On my 08, none of the signals are on by default.
They're so bright that I'm definitely looking into figuring out the electrical needs to get them to act as both a running light and turn signal :)
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,104 Posts
The signals are single filament. If the signals and brakes are off, only the 5Wx2 tail lights and the even smaller license light are on besides the headlights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
so only < 15 W savings - thanks, I will bypass a head light

I guess I should not have assumed the blinker were always on, I just went out and turned on the bike to check (I can't believe how unobservant I have been- I've had it a few months now !)
I must have modified my Valkyrie with 1157 bulbs. (BTW- quite a contrast riding the two)

I don't know why you would need to use a relay to bypass a headlight. A rated switch should handle the load OK, with heavier guage wire (18 or 16 g) to avoid voltage drop.

GreyWolf Thanks for setting me straight (again) !
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,104 Posts
A relay isn't needed but a switch that can handle 72W or 6 amps is figuring 20% over the rating for safety. A conveniently sized switch may be used with a relay if said switch is lacking. I do recommend relays to feed the headlights. Many owners of stock systems report contact and connector failure. The poll at http://www.stromtrooper.com/information-vault/71046-headlight-problems-not.html is very young and a bit obscure yet respondents with problems are in double digits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I guess it is easy enough, maybe tap the heated grip wire (which I need to dig out ay

to power the relay, and maybe have a way to turn off the headlights to start/emergency power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
BTW do you still like your HID set up?

I found the thread in your reference about these:
Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID Kit Wholesale Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID Kit HID Conversion Kits Car Lights HID Xenon Car Headlights Bulbs Ballasts at competitive prices [VVME-HKB93-DSL] - $70.99 : VVME.COM, Tattoo Kit, Xenon HID Kit, )
You use them for both lights I assume? 35W HID headlight= 75 W total
So some Wattage savings and great lighting (I am guessing) and no need to switch off one headlight , no need for auxillary lighting (I am treading away from the thread I guess!)
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,104 Posts
You have to add the ballast draw with HID headlights. They actually draw 40-44W each. I still cut off one headlight by opening the circuit to one ballast an colder days or longer trips. The great thing is the HIDs are at full brightness from 9V-16V. When the Heat Troller is at a partial setting, the H4s would modulate as the Troller was on for a fraction of each second.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,104 Posts
I'll use 12V or 14V, whichever pushes the envelope more in the calculation. I want to err on the side of caution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
HID

That sounds like a great set up- it still uses less amperage the standard bulb, and I imagine one headlight is plenty for day time use, probably not bad at night?
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,104 Posts
I had a ballast go out, apparantly because it was in contact with a Stebel horn motor. I lost two like that but had no problem since I moved it. I did a stint at night that way because it was close to 100F during the day. I wouldn't plan on running with one light but it was no problem. I still had better light than any single headlight motorcycle I ever owned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
what made it go out? Vibration?

how long has it been running since you replaced the ballasts?
thanks
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,104 Posts
how long has it been running since you replaced the ballasts?
thanks
It's been 8 months and maybe 6000 miles. Ballast failure is rare and having two go out in the same place made me think contact with the horn was a bad idea. I imagine it was vibration. If I lose this one, I'll move it well away as it could be the electrical field generated by the Stebel's motor.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top