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Discussion Starter #1
So the bike went in for the first service yesterday. The dealer really insisted they do the work. The only reason I let them do it was the EFI sync procedure. For California bikes the first service requires a sync.
My motivation was the engine stalling when opening the throttle after a long idle period (long stop light).
so it is not stalling (yet), however the idle sticks and takes a long time to settle down. Anybody else experienced this?
Additionally anybody used a Twin Max to synch theirs and how would you review this tool? AND where/which ports are the ones to access for vacuum?
I clearly will need to do this myself if I want it right.
BTW I paid $226 for this glorified oil change. Thanks California!
 

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If they truly synchorize your throttle bodies, and do the usual oil change, bolt tightening, fanbelt adjustment...etc...$265 is a good price.
 

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My motivation was the engine stalling when opening the throttle after a long idle period (long stop light).
My 2012 does this..kinda worries me. I've only had it a month. What is the fix? I guess i could search it, but since I say someone mention it I figured i'd post here.
 

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So it was stalling, then after $220 bucks they made the idle run high?

:confused:

I'd bring it back and INSIST that they take care of the problem for free.

All the bikes are CA spec too. Mine is.

Stalling issues:

Engine stalls often
(Incorrect fuel/air mixture)​
Defective IAP sensors or circuit.​
Repair or replace.

Clogged fuel filter.​
Clean or replace.

Defective fuel pump.​
Replace.

Defective fuel pressure regulator.​
Replace.

Defective ECT sensor.​
Replace.

Defective thermostat.​
Replace.

Defective IAT sensor.​
Replace.

Damaged or cracked vacuum hose.​
Replace.

Damaged or clogged ISC valve.​
Replace or repair.

Engine stalls often (Fuel
injector improperly
operating)​
Defective fuel injectors.​
Replace.

No injection signal from ECM.​
Repair or replace.

Open or short circuited wiring
connection.​
Repair or replace.​
Defective battery or low battery voltage.​
Replace or recharge.

Engine stalls often
(Control circuit or sensor
improperly operating)​
Defective ECM.​
Replace.

Defective fuel pressure regulator.​
Replace.

Defective TP sensor.​
Replace.

Defective IAT sensor.​
Replace.

Defective CKP sensor.​
Replace.

Defective ECT sensor.​
Replace.

Defective fuel pump relay.​
Replace.

Defective ISC valve.​
Replace.

ISC incorrect learning.​
Reset learned value.

Engine stalls often
(Engine internal parts
improperly operating)​
Fouled spark plug.​
Clean.

Defective CKP sensor or ECM.​
Replace.

Clogged fuel hose.​
Clean.

Valve clearance out of adjustment.​
Adjust.

Dirty throttle body. Clean
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am just irritated and reaching out for answers. Yes all the bikes are Ca spec. but only the bikes sold in Ca. have the service requirement to sync the bodies. It's in the book ya know.
The stalling happens when the bike idles fo too long. There is even a audible tone change in the engine idle indicating it is going to happen. This must be a engine management-O/2 sensor problem.
After the sync the idle hangs up around 2k rpm. then comes slowly down. This is a new conditon after the sync.
This is not unfamiliar territory for me. I am however broadcasting this to see if it is a common ailment or my bike has a stand out problem. The sticking idle leads me to believe the service work was completely and properly mis-handled.
I found no disconnected vac hoses or connections so far.
The Twin Max is a electronic sync tool that should be better and more accurate than analog vacuum guages. So I am looking for feed back if any of you have used one and is it worth the $117.
 

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It sounds like the service was badly done. I would take it back. The advantage of the Twin Max is it doesn't have a liquid that can be sucked into the engine. A yardstick with a clear plastic tube loop full of ATF is as accurate if not more so. The procedure at Throttle Body Sync for DL650(A)K7, A How To is pretty much what can be done without an SDS or OBD tool. That's the expensive dealer tool that makes a difference, not the Twin Max. I would need to look at the service manual for how to hook up the vacuum tubes as the 2012 uses all the spigots.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
G W, I will take that info if you have it and thanks for the link.
 

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G W, I will take that info if you have it and thanks for the link.
Disconnect the IAP sensor vacuum hoses and use the nipples thus exposed to connect the synch tool.

Really. Don't try it. Take it back. You need the service manual, synch tool, air screw 90 degree adjuster tool and an SDS tool to do the job as well as the dealer can. You paid to have it done. They need to make it right.
 

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Toytech, the Ca Dept of Consumer Affairs Bureau of Automotive Repairs complaint form is a powerful tool that is free to you. Be ready to use it. On the other hand, these are a new model, and there are things for the staff to learn about them...but not at your expense.
 

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I got $5 says they don't have a SDS tool and they just turned up the idle speed with the stop screw.

Did you get a code when it stalled?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Factory service manual is next on my list. I have for now run out of Farkle money because I already spent the wadd on it. I have the rt. angle tool already from other bikes I own.
At this time I have had my usual experience with other people (dealers) working on my stuff. I am notoriously perfectionist on my own wheels. With that said I do not plan to take it to the dealer again. My work standards far exceed anything they will do for a paycheck.

GW, thanks for the input. Twin Max is on order.

Just call me Mr. Fussy
 

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