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Discussion Starter #1
This got a bit long, but I wasn't sure how much I could shorten it. Sorry for that...

New member here, and long-time lurker. I have had a 2006 DL1000 for about 4-1/2 years now, with no problems at all until right before Christmas. I had, around Thanksgiving, removed the body panels to route the wiring for some Oxford Sport Heaterz, and while I was in there I cleaned the K&N air filter before putting everything back together. I don't have a lot of time to ride at the moment, but I rode it for about 4 miles total, just to try the new heated grips, plus a Givi windshield I had also acquired. Got home, parked the bike in the garage, and didn't get back on it for a few weeks. It ran perfect, and the grips were great! Much warmer than the cheap ones I took off.

So here's the deal: I suited up to ride to town on the Saturday before Christmas, and got out to start the bike, and...no fuel pump. The battery is healthy, though I'm not sure how old it is, and was cranking the engine over fine. Everything seemed to work, except the fuel pump. The gauge needles would sweep on startup, like normal, but I did have "CHEC" on the display. I have the factory service manual, so I got that out and started tracing things down. All the safety switches seemed to work, fuses were fine, and I figured out that the fuel pump relay is grounded through the ECU, which, at this point, wasn't happening. I looked for all the threads on here and VSRI about these symptoms, and found the different ones about checking the safety switches, the plug to the digital display, etc. Nothing seemed to totally match my symptoms, so I ended up sourcing a used ECU and ordered it.

In the meantime, I tried checking more wires and fuses (again), and ended up discovering the threads on here and on VSRI about the key switch resistor, so I tested that and it showed 99.x ohms...basically perfect. I also read about the 5V wire between the switch and ECU, so I backprobed that wire, found about 1.1 volts there, and thought I had a bad key switch, so I ordered one of those. (I do NOT like simply throwing parts at a problem, so I was starting to get nervous. I've done that a few times on other vehicles before I knew what I was doing.) The new key switch (off a 2012 Vee) didn't change anything, and i couldn't find anything wrong with the other wiring, sensors, etc., so I nervously swapped the new ECU in and turned the key. SUCCESS! Started up and ran without any noticeable drama.

So now, my questions:
1. When hooking up the Oxford Heaterz, I put the little control box (not the one with the buttons, the other one) in that little gap between the ECU and the fuel pump relay. I can't cut and shorten that cable, since it's got a big multi-pin plug between that box and the one with the temp. control buttons. Is it possible that there was some kind of electrical/electromagnetic interference that box put out that ruined my ECU? I didn't hook the grips back up yet, I left them unhooked to try running the bike with the new-to-me ECU. Do I need to move the wires around?

2. The wiring on this bike looks PRISTINE. I checked a bunch of plugs for bad connections, broken/bare/burned wires, etc., like I read about others dealing with, and found none of that. Was this just a random failure?

3. I was nervous about hooking the new ECU up, because I hadn't found anything else that looked bad, and I didn't want to miss something that might fry it again. I haven't had time to put it together and ride it, but it seems to run fine in the garage. Did I miss something that I should check?

4. The ECU I took out was labeled 06G70, and the new one is marked 06G71. Anything different here?

As far as I know, the bike is completely stock, except for heated grips, K&N air filter, and Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit with one headlight cut-out switch, all of which I have installed after I bought the bike. None of the factory wiring has been cut or spliced, the grips and the headlight kit are both hooked directly to the battery with inline fuses.

Sorry for this epistle, I was just trying to get all the pertinent details in. Any ideas or suggestions? Let me know, thanks.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I'm not sure what you mean by little control box without the buttons. Is it pictured here?

 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I just realized you were able to crank the engine with a CHEC displayed. Is that correct? If so the only thing that will cause that is the black/green wire from the ECU to the display is not carrying the signal to clear the CHEC. That would be due to a bad ECU too. I found this article about including a relay with the OXFORD's wiring. Heated Grips - how to avoid the flat battery blues | Ulysses Melbourne

If that other box you were talking about is a relay, it will put out a very strong magnetic field and such a field being created and destroyed can play havoc with electronic components within that field.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, that's correct. It would crank over just as strongly after the fuel pump quit as it did when the fuel pump was running.

I did try disconnecting the ground wire for the pump relay from the connector, and grounding the relay straight to the battery. When I did that, the pump ran fine, so I tried starting it again that way, but it still wouldn't fire, so I can only assume that the ignition coils were also disabled.

I must have an older version of Oxford Heaterz, as the temp. controller on mine has three buttons, not two. Sorry I can't post pictures or links yet, but if it will help you, right above the barcode on my box, it says "OF696Z - Oxford Sports Heaterz V.7"
I got them at a swap meet, they were brand new but had never been installed, so I don't know how old they really are, as in, when they were actually manufactured.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I forgot to add, on the little wiring diagram included in the Oxford instructions, they simply call that piece the "control box", not a relay. The piece with the buttons on it which you mount where you can reach it to turn the grips up and down/on and off, is called the "Heat Controller". For all I know, it might be a relay plus who-knows-what, but I just assumed it was to control the duty cycle of the grips, so you could choose between the heat settings.

Oh, and mine only has four different heat settings instead of five, if that helps at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oops, I forgot to look at the link you sent until just now. On that page you linked to, is posted the same wiring diagram that I have. The latest versions of Oxford Heaterz apparently don't have that extra piece, and it's all contained in the Heat Controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm also curious why it apparently failed while it was turned off. Although I'm glad it happened while I was parked at home, rather than out on a ride somewhere.
 

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I had one fail on my outboard motor, I started the motor at home, drove 10 minutes to the boat ramp and the motor would not fire up, ECU failed in that 10 minute period.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So just a belated follow-up here, the replacement ECU seems to be working fine, from what I can tell. I re-routed the wiring for the Oxford grips, so none of it is right beside the ECU now. Therefore, I doubt I'll ever know for sure if that is what caused the failure of the original ECU, or if it simply failed on its own. Oh well, it's running, and I'm happy. Thanks, Greywolf and Rolex, for the info you shared!
 
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