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I purchased my '05 V-Strom about a month ago. It has 13,xxx miles on it. Purchased it used. The previous owner never complained about the rough low rpm running. I notice it. I stopped by my local dealer. He said it would be hard especially since I'm the second owner. In order to find out, I need to do a TBS and secondary or something adjustment. All in all, about a $150 before I would know if they would replace it. Big maybe. What do you all think? Is it worth trying, or just forget about it?

Alex
 

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Would they need to do that work or could you perform it yourself?

If they do the synch and secondary adjustment but it doesn't take care of it because of a bunk ECM will they still charge you for the original work?
(I've had at least one experience with the initial groundwork has not been charged when the underlying issue was a warranty problem.)
 

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Would they need to do that work or could you perform it yourself?

If they do the synch and secondary adjustment but it doesn't take care of it because of a bunk ECM will they still charge you for the original work?
(I've had at least one experience with the initial groundwork has not been charged when the underlying issue was a warranty problem.)
I didn't ask. I would imagine it needs the TBS, as it's never been done. So I think they would charge me regardless.
 

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From some of the other prices I have seen, $150 to do a TBS and a Secondary Throttle Plate adjustment is not that bad. I would look at it this way, if they do that and it does fix it, all is good. If it doesn't, then you get the new ECM and all adjustments are done. I think for that price, I would go for it.
 

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I purchased my '05 V-Strom about a month ago. It has 13,xxx miles on it. Purchased it used. The previous owner never complained about the rough low rpm running. I notice it. I stopped by my local dealer. He said it would be hard especially since I'm the second owner. In order to find out, I need to do a TBS and secondary or something adjustment. All in all, about a $150 before I would know if they would replace it. Big maybe. What do you all think? Is it worth trying, or just forget about it?

Alex
Alex,

I don't know what you do for a living but lets think a second about this...say your a plumber and you tell me that you need to unclog my sink to fix my faucet. I pay you to unclog the sink but the faucet still doesnt work. Do I pay you to mis-diagnose my faucet? NO I don't.

Same way that you don't pay for the dealers mistakes. He can easily check the ECM seperately.

There is a very good chance...chime in here guys if you disagree,...like nearly 100% that your primaries and secondaries need to be sync'ed.

There are some very simple and easy to follow instructions complete with pictures on this site and we'd give you all the help that you need to do it yourself.

If you really have to pay someone to do it, the buck fifty doesn't sound too high...but it's only 2 hours of labor and I would have thought that the dealer would want more like 4 hrs.

Just be real clear with your service mgr at the dealer that you don't pay for their errors because you don't pay for practice. I had a caddy some yrs ago and the dealer wanted to play that game with me too....but if you're firm but very, very calm, you'll be alright.

Jeff

BTW..........WTTC!!!
 

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Ok. I don't really agree. First, I don't think the analogy is all that accurate.

The ECM and the FI issues can be interrelated and one problem/issue can mask the other. Suzuki won't man up and pay for it unless the dealer has basically proof positive the ECM is bad. So, the dealer has to know that the FI is correct as a baseline before they can explore the ECM issues. By asking the dealer to ignore the FI issues or to fix it themselves, you are asking them to pay for the work themselves out of pocket, because Suzuki won't pay for it. That does not seem reasonable to me.

The only thing I can see, is to do it yourself only if you know you can get it smack dab on the money, which is easier said than done. Go to the dealer and have an agreement they can diagnose it first, then check the FI, if off, adjust that at your expense, then move onto the ECM diagnosis. Remember, you have to ride the bike to diagnose it; which means stripping off the body work and reassembling it several times. Time is money and that takes time. The dealer can not take the owner's word for any problem, the mechanic must experience the problem himself or else the factory will not cover it.

If the dealer takes short cuts, then they risk getting their franchise yanked for failing to live up to their contract with Suzuki Inc.
 

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Tell your dealer to look up Suzuki Technical Bulletin #35. It requires the dealer to check four things:

TPS
TBS
idle speed
valve adjustment

The bulletin says any of these things can cause the "surging" people complain of. If all these have been checked and the problem persists, they will swap out the ECM (a $1200 part).

I just had this done on a 2005 with over 19,000 miles, and I'm the 3rd owner. They didn't give me a hard time about it at all, but the service manager at my dealer was a big fan of the old TLs. He says the TLs had the same problem.

I believe the bulletin says the customer doesn't have to pay for any of it (they didn't charge me anything). The dealer gets paid by Suzuki. All this is probably a bit of a PITA for the dealer, who ends up caught between a customer and the manufacturer.

Anyway, the improvement is worth the effort. There's still a little surging in the 3000s, but it's much better. The bike will also accelerate smoothly from about 2000 rpm, which is new for my bike.
 

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Tell your dealer to look up Suzuki Technical Bulletin #35. It requires the dealer to check four things:

TPS
TBS
idle speed
valve adjustment

The bulletin says any of these things can cause the "surging" people complain of. If all these have been checked and the problem persists, they will swap out the ECM (a $1200 part).

I just had this done on a 2005 with over 19,000 miles, and I'm the 3rd owner. They didn't give me a hard time about it at all, but the service manager at my dealer was a big fan of the old TLs. He says the TLs had the same problem.

I believe the bulletin says the customer doesn't have to pay for any of it (they didn't charge me anything). The dealer gets paid by Suzuki. All this is probably a bit of a PITA for the dealer, who ends up caught between a customer and the manufacturer.

Anyway, the improvement is worth the effort. There's still a little surging in the 3000s, but it's much better. The bike will also accelerate smoothly from about 2000 rpm, which is new for my bike.
You are lucky and I think your situation is atypical.

The terms of the TSB state that Suzuki will pay the dealer for 0.2 hours of labor in order to replace the ECM. The dealer is not reimbursed for *required* steps before they can actually get to the ECM:

TB Sync
Valve Check/Adjustment
TPS Check/Adjustment
Idle Speed Check/Adjustment

Any parts/labor needed for these pre-ECM replacement steps are the responsibility of...you guessed it...the consumer.
 

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You could pay for checkout, get ECM replaced and "still" have the problem.

I vote for simply getting the yosh box treatment or getting a PCIII or Dobeck TFI unit.......you are done!!! The problem is that the fuel map is too lean, it has nothing to do with the valves and unlikely still that the issue is TBS or TPS out of adjustment. There are those that got a new ECM, had all the adjustments made and STILL had the lean surge and occassional intake pop. This is a lean fuel condition at idle and up to 3000 RPM...get some fuel there and the problem is gone. This engine hasn't undergone the necessary changes to really make it meet emissions "the right way", so they screw with the FI mapping. The Yosh box or Teka box remap is the best thing going, that is what most have done who are staying with stock setup. My DR 650 is too lean, but I probably won't get a jet kit....it isn't a bad enough problem IMHO.

The next VeeStrom will have this problem fixed when and if they decide to update the engine/bike....I don't see them sinking the money into actually fixing it with the current engine platform. My 2 cents......
 

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I vote for simply getting the yosh box treatment or getting a PCIII or Dobeck TFI unit.......you are done!!!
Probably true. I may still put a PC on it even though I've got the new ECM. Mostly because I may be forced to put some pipes on it.
 

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I got my ECM changed, and still needed the TFI. It was better, but still not fixed. Honestly if I would've had to pay for it, it wouldn't have been worth it. I wonder if the TFI on the old ECM would've came up with the same result. I can't be sure of that as I have both, but the new ECM wasn't all that great for me.
 

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Fueling Question On Dl1000k5

Anyone have a power commander with the dynotune NOT fix the running problem between 3,000-4,000 RPM? My dealer is giving me flack because I bought my "05 used and it's out of warranty so they aren't making it easy for the replacement ECU on the service bulletin.

I have a power commander on the bike already but don't want to pay for the dyno tune if it might not fix the problem until the ECU is replaced.

Thanks!
 

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I haven't dealt with this issue with Suzuki, but had a very similar issue years ago with a '95 VW Jetta. My experience was that manufacturers, to avoid admitting that they are playing stupid games, will replace lots of stuff under warranty to pretend to fix an issue (after dancing around it as long as possible making the dealers miserable).

The vast majority of consumers will assume that the issue is fixed to the best it can be, and just live with the results after the repair. Fixing it the right way may involve EPA issues, etc.

If the ECU works at all, I'd imagine that there isn't anything wrong with it. It's running software, and unless the new ECU is mapped differently in software, it will likely behave exactly the same way. There is a remote possibility that it's a hardware problem on the ECU, but I'd be inclined to think that mode of failure would be more catastrophic.

On my Jetta, if you held the throttle pressure constant at exactly 2400 RPM (which was cruising speed in 5th gear on backroads), the engine RPM would begin to oscillate until the car was shaking. Give it a little gas and it went away, let off the gas a little and it went away. VW, under warranty, replaced nearly every component of my fuel system... even though EVERY manual trans VW of that year had the problem (to varying degrees). The wouldn't admit it was a design flaw for a long time.

Finally, I insisted that they either buy and install an aftermarket fuel-map chip to fix the problem completely, or provide their own fuel map. It took a few months and they were working on it anyway I'm sure... and I got the VW fuel map chip and it was fixed.

I'd be inclined to make all the necessary adjustments to insure the fuel system is working as good as possible, and then go with an aftermarket fuel map system to fix the issue. It sounds like Suzuki's hands are tied and can't provide a real fix, so it's not worth your time to pursue.

-Russ
 
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