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Discussion Starter #1
Moral of this story is read AND follow the instructions on the Eastern Beaver site if you bought the PC8 "Kit", i.e. with pre-cut wires, relay, etc.

I dutifully searched the forum for ideas on how to install/mount my PC8. This lead me to several posts that confused me into thinking I could/should use the black rear brake light connector for control voltage to operate the relay for the switched circuits -- because after all it was so easily available and we all like "easy". It's obvious this won't work with the PC8 Kit because the Kit comes with a white two conductor connector and the black brake light connector has six conductors (five are wired on my bike).

Eastern Beaver does sell adapters that tap into the black rear brake light connector for other uses and possibly you could take control voltage from one of the leads (I didn't research it enough to know if this is true). But if you have the "Kit" stay the course and tap into the white rear brake switch connector under the coolant tank located up front under the rear of the fuel tank. Simply take off the two bolts holding the coolant reservoir in place to allow it to rotate enough to aid you in disconnecting the white connector and connecting the Kit's connectors into place. A long hemostatic clamp I found on a fishing trip helped me disconnect the connector as my hands didn't fit into the cramped space.

I hope this helps others to avoid the self-imposed confusion I had after searching PC8 related posts on the forum.

Here's a picture of my installation. You can see the black rear brake connector just above and behind the PC8.
 

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Nice clean install.....well done!
 

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Looks tidy, but unless I'm missing something, you still don't have anything connected to it yet, right? And that's where it starts to get messy.

So, with the PC8 mounted on it's side like that, is there still enough room to run wires to the ground connectors? And I would think that you'll need a wire loom or several zip-ties on any hot wires so they don't get tangled or caught on the seat post when removing or installing the seat.

I would probably do a few things differently if I had to do mine again. It works great, but isn't as tidy as some installations I've seen.

 

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So if you did not buy the wiring kit you use the white wire that goes to the rear brake as the switched wire ?? Is that correct ?


Randy
 

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The switched hot wire is not white. The white wire with a black stripe is the brake light hot wire. The PC8 would only be on when the brakes are on. The gray wire that feeds the tail light can work but be aware the PC8 will be on if the ignition is in the P position too. The brake light wire commonly talked about as a good switched hot for a relay trigger wire is the orange/green wire feeding into the rear brake light switch, not any wire leading off the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
my first thought as well
I made sure it was off the bottom by at least my finger depth and I mounted it to the side with 3M dual lock tape (mushroom heads not hook and fabric) so I can easily take it off and move it slightly upward as needed. But I'm confident I can easily get the wires in as needed.

And if not, the dual lock tape will allow me to move it easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks tidy, but unless I'm missing something, you still don't have anything connected to it yet, right? And that's where it starts to get messy.
zekester63,

Mine's a "wireless" installation -- it's all the rage these days with electronics you know. :green_lol:

Hopefully I'll get to wire it up soon. It took me months to get this far so we'll see what the schedule allows. But you're correct, the battle plan is perfect until the war starts.
 

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Hopefully I'll get to wire it up soon. It took me months to get this far so we'll see what the schedule allows. But you're correct, the battle plan is perfect until the war starts.

Good idea with the dual lock! That's much better than typical Velcro. And if it's taken you this long, don't get in any hurry to finish everything all at once and you'll probably be happier with the end result.
 

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The switched hot wire is not white. The white wire with a black stripe is the brake light hot wire. The PC8 would only be on when the brakes are on. The gray wire that feeds the tail light can work but be aware the PC8 will be on if the ignition is in the P position too. The brake light wire commonly talked about as a good switched hot for a relay trigger wire is the orange/green wire feeding into the rear brake light switch, not any wire leading off the switch.
Thanks for the good info.:thumbup: I am getting overwhelmed with the boxes of stuff that have been coming in for my new bike. So much to do .

Randy
 

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my 2011 installation - almost no space used in the storage area. I did relocate one ABS vale fuse holder and Fuel Pump Relay into the storage area.


 

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Discussion Starter #13
Slight tangent post here -- but since it's my post originally I guess I can do it?

What is the wired device immediately behind the positive battery terminal and to the left of the ABS Valve fuse? It says "UP" on it. :confused:
 

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That's the tip over switch. The TOS shuts off the engine after about two seconds if the bike goes down on its side.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That's the tip over switch. The TOS shuts off the engine after about two seconds if the bike goes down on its side.
Thanks greywolf, that makes sense -- hence the "UP" on it.

BTW I know first hand that the TOS works -- twice. :thumbup:
 

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But if you have the "Kit" stay the course and tap into the white rear brake switch connector under the coolant tank located up front under the rear of the fuel tank. Simply take off the two bolts holding the coolant reservoir in place to allow it to rotate enough to aid you in disconnecting the white connector and connecting the Kit's connectors into place.
I'm doing the install now and this was a great help, thanks!

Tex
 

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Guys, I'm doing the PC8 kit on my 2013 right now and so far so good. I have everything hooked up except the devices themselves and have a few questions.

Also, I haven't permanently mounted the box yet but it's in the tray. I pretty much did it the way the instruction page on EB's home page said to do it. Only difference is that his tool tray looks more flat and mine has a big hump in it preventing a flush mounting.

I'll figure that out but my question is... Everything I want to connect, Stebel air horn, Oxford heated grips, power outlet for GPS all have a fuse already on their positive leads. Since I am going to put a fuse in the relay box for each device, do I leave the one on the device's positive lead? If so, do I use the same rated fuse for that device in the relay box? The air horn has a 30amp so would I put a 30amp for the horn in the relay box... etc???

Thanks so much!!

Tex
 

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Cut the inline fuses off. If you blow a fuse, it's a lot easier to find the blown fuse if you only have one place to look. Normally, use the same rating. 20A is plenty for the air horn though. The PC8 is rated for 15A continuous or 20A momentary IIRC on its installed fuses. Don't use anything over 20A and use 20A only if it's a momentary load like a horn. If you have a momentary load over 20A, go directly to the battery with an inline fuse. If you have a continuous load over 15A, your battery will die in fairly short order.
 

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This is how I mounted my PC-8 back when I had the V-strom. I got around the problem of that hump in the tool tray by building a small platform for the PC-8 out of ABS plastic. The platform bolted to the side of the tool tray with an "L" bracket from the hardware store, and provided a very strong mount. I could also run wires under the PC-8 through a built in wire loom, which cut down on the amount of space the device took up.

There are more photos of the mount here: http://www.stromtrooper.com/members/41909-rcinnc-albums-pc-8-installation-homemade-elevated-pc-8-mount.html

I think the easiest way to install the PC-8 is to just buy the harness with the switching lead already built in. It was very much a no-nonsense, plug and play installation.
 

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