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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Update 2: I did install new Anakee 3 tires front and rear. By the way they really wine quite a bit, more than I expected after reading about it.
But back to the ABS and TC. No more ABS issues. I tested it repeatedly (as well as TC), no issues and the ABS control light does not come on after a few miles. Exactly the same experience I had when I took the worn darkside tire of.

So in my book, if the tire diameters fall outside a predetermined ratio range the ABS turns of.
 

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Is the air pressure at spec? my 650's ABS light would flash under acceleration when I aired the rear down to ~20psi. Once aired up, it was normal.

The Trailmax's handle great right to the edge of the tread; strap on yer knee pucks and ride. Toward the end of life, around 3-4/32, they are pretty squirmy on hot tar snakes moreso than when new; pick your line & speed carefully in turns with parallel snakes. I replaced my rear at 3/32/2.5mm measured from the tread surface to the concave wear bar. there is another one deeper that appears to be 1-2/32 above the carcass; this rear would only be half worn at 11,000mi/17,000km if I pushed it that far! Previous newbie experience with Dunlop K141s on my KZ750 back in the early 80's: I rode right to when the wear bars were flush with the rest of the tread, then I noticed a strip of cord started showing down the center on a ride. I cut the ride short and gingerly rode home ~50mi/80km. There was cord showing 2/3 around the circumference when I got home :oops:.
Automotive tire Road surface Asphalt Grey Automotive wheel system
 

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The ABS runs off a tone ring on the front and rear wheels. I cannot imagine how a sprocket change could have any impact on the pulses coming off the tone rings unless you geared it so low that the front wheel lifts all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Is the air pressure at spec? .....
The Trailmax's handle great right to the edge of the tread; strap on yer knee pucks and ride. ....
Air pressure about 38/42 PSI. I have TPM's and watch it constantly (displayed on my Garmin).

We rode a lot of miles at significant lean angles going to/from the eastern rally. Interesting is that with increasing wear I felt less sure about traction at larger lean angles, more so when wet. The tire never stepped out but often felt like sliding a bit when getting back on the throttle a bit harder. And I have not seen a rear tire cupped but this one certainly had different tread depth left at different tread bocks off the center. The front was a lot worse cupped. It had a lot of tread left in the center and almost non at some blocks off center.
 

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The ABS runs off a tone ring on the front and rear wheels. I cannot imagine how a sprocket change could have any impact on the pulses coming off the tone rings unless you geared it so low that the front wheel lifts all the time.
I regeared my Kawasaki Versys and had this very issue with the speed reading and ABS going dead. The ECU compares the speed of one wheel to the other, watching for a notable difference.
I guess that the system was unknown to me releasing a brake and eventually the long term out of spec condition caused the system to shut down to advise me that something was amiss.

I could ride the bike for an hour or so before the ABS failed.
 

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I regeared my Kawasaki Versys and had this very issue with the speed reading and ABS going dead. The ECU compares the speed of one wheel to the other, watching for a notable difference.
I guess that the system was unknown to me releasing a brake and eventually the long term out of spec condition caused the system to shut down to advise me that something was amiss.

I could ride the bike for an hour or so before the ABS failed.
That's just weird. Is it possible the Versys is trying to do something clever like comparing the speedo sensor to the ABS sensors?
 

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That is correct. The RWS sensor is also the speedo/odo data input. However the system throws up not only a speed sensor fault but a ABS fault as well meaning that the ABS system must be constantly comparing both wheel speeds and eventually finding an unacceptable deviance.
I presume that the ABS system must, unknown to me, being repeatedly activated until it cries that's enough confusion and shuts itself down. When it was doing this it would often take a hour to disable itself.
 

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That kind of makes sense. It is only by comparing front and rear wheel speeds that the ABS can detect loss of traction and activate ABS on the one that has slowed down compared to the other. With traction on both tires, both wheels will turn at the almost the same rate (some minor variance while in a turn as the rear drags on a slightly tighter radius compared to the front)

For the bike to decide that there is a problem with the speedo, it must have a preconceived notion of the combination of the gear ratio and engine speed - or there is a speedo sensor on the gearbox output as well as the sensor on the rear wheel.
 

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Nope. As I said the RWS sensor also provides the speed data to the ECU. Even this model Versys without ABS have a RWS senor - but no front wheel one.
Nothing on the output shaft.

It would have been so simple to have instead used the FWS sensor to provide speed data.

As an aside you can see how the same system might be adapted into a traction control system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
My V2 had similar issues with the speed signal when I was running the darkside tire towards the end. Not caused by gearing but by tire wear. That darkside tire was already by design not exactly the correct diameter. My cruise control uses the speed signal from the ECU and it would disengage repeatedly until it finally was not useable. A regular tire fixed that as well as the ABS shutting down. I had all but forgotten about that.
Looks like Kawasaki is using a different set of criteria than Suzuki when to deactivate the ABS.
 
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