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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I took it upon myself to grease the swingarm and rear linkage. To put the exhaust back together, DL10000, it appeared I needed to remove the front headpipe to get the rear downtube lined back up. If there is some easy shortcut now is not the time to add that to this thread.

Bottom line, BOTH MoFo flange bolts on the front cylinder SNAPPPPPED when I tried to turn them loose. I heated the aluminum w/a propane torch.

Who has the best line up of drill sizes to run up thru and remove these bolts.

Mother of mercy was not shining on me. One step ahead, two steps back. WHY?????????????????

Any insight is appreciated.

SoLow in SoIll
 

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OK, I took it upon myself to grease the swingarm and rear linkage. To put the exhaust back together, DL10000, it appeared I needed to remove the front headpipe to get the rear downtube lined back up. If there is some easy shortcut now is not the time to add that to this thread.

Bottom line, BOTH MoFo flange bolts on the front cylinder SNAPPPPPED when I tried to turn them loose. I heated the aluminum w/a propane torch.

Who has the best line up of drill sizes to run up thru and remove these bolts.

Mother of mercy was not shining on me. One step ahead, two steps back. WHY?????????????????

Any insight is appreciated.

SoLow in SoIll

Sorry about your luck. I was almost in a similar spot this morning. Usually when a stud breaks off when you're trying to remove the nut, simple methods fail. Realize that if the nice solid stud wouldn't unscrew itself, the remaining peice is pretty tight. We recently covered this topic on a guy's Vee that had a broken bolt by the front sprocket. It's not the end of the world but it can be a real pain.

Some have a lot of faith in the "rusty bolt spray lube". I've never seen it loosen a bolt that wouldn't turn but it can help if you can move it back and forth. Usually when someone says it works, there's more going on like heat or a new grip on the stud (if any is sticking out). Maybe letting is set soaked in the stuff for days has an affect. We don't usually have days to wait and in your case it's going to have to run uphill.

I super double caution against using an "EZ out" tool. They are at least as hard as most drill bits you can find and almost as brittle. The bolt you're dealing with is 8mm x 1.25mm. If you drill too large of a hole to put an EZ out into, the stud will expand against the material it's in when you try to turn the EZ out. If you use too small of a hole, the EZ out will be small and weak. When you break it off in the hole, the Mother of Mercy will be really on your case since you can't drill an ez out with normal bits.

If it's broken off flush or lower, drilling is the only reasonable option. If you can, use a die grinder to grind the end flat and square with the hole, it will help you center punch the center. Be as precise as possible here. If you make the punch and it looks off center, grind it flat and try again. Start at about a 1/8",maybe a tad smaller and work up. Here's a link to a drill size/tap size chart: Tap and die - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia They show 6.8mm or 0.2677". In the U.S. a 17/64 should work to run a 8mm x 1.25mm tap into. If you're really good you won't touch the threads in the head. I've had better luck keeping the drill centered by starting small.

If the hole ends up with some damage, a correctly installed helicoil is a solid and reliable repair. Older Gold Wings had a helicoil like insert in their aluminum brake caliper mounts from the factory.
 

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If you're into the drilling mode, you might consider using reverse twist drill bits.
I have NOT used them, though I have heard of several people using them and when they step up to the next size, the fastener will often back right out.
It's a combination of heat, and microvibrations that can help break the fastener loose, then, the reverse twist is providing input in the correct direction to remove it, and voila there it is!

If I get back in this situation, you can bet that I'll be looking for them!

.
 

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:iws:

Yes start with left hand bits even HF has some
REAL center punch

I don't know if there is room but the old Indian Trick was to use a nut splitter on exhaust bolts and not even try to get old nuts off

If / when you have drilled it to near its root diameter then it is like a weak can and can crush under the torque and therefore loosen from the threads.

heat spray, heat , spray , heat , spray
prayer
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nutless

Not nuts, Socket head cap screw.

head says 42-70...........appears to be a stainless of the magnetic variety.

I'm sure this will drill like butter.
 

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Go to TLZone or TLPlanet and search this issue. Very common on the TLS and R. Lots of fixes mentioned and ways to prevent future issues. PB Blaster is your friend here.
 

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snappy times

Any luck sofar?:confused:
First some liquid wrench will make things easier, let it soak, tap it, soak some more.
If there is anything sticking out I would try and weld a nut on the end.
The quick shot of intense heat will loosen things up.
Disconnect the battery when welding on motor/chassi.

Drilling has to be done carefully and if you then snap the easy out off in the hole you've got a bigger problem than you started with as the toolsteel is very hard.

I made a real big mess with an easy out once.:yikes:

Header flange bolts will live a long time with some copper neversieze on them.
 
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