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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm discouraged. My 05 (65ishK miles) just had her valve clearance adjusted (standard one exhaust out of spec). Then the charging system finally gave up on me and stranded me at work. I build up some money, buy the stuff, put a new Charging set in, buttoned her back up and took her for a shakedown run.

MAN it was great. I hadn't realized how much the electrics were crapping me out. Hasn't run that good in a while.

Saturday morning I pile on and head out to the Experienced Rider Course where I will enjoy riding my strom again. I zip up the highway and onto the offramp and... DISASTER. Strom dies at the light. NONONONO. I get it to start up, kinda, and idle, shittily, by turning the idle up, but try to get it to pull me along and BLUH down she goes.

That day I could get it to start a little with throttle on, but then it'd vroooom DIE. Poking around I discovered that the blanking caps on my extender hoses had cracked and fallen apart. I replaced those feeling dumb but observant aaaaand... Nothing. It'll turn over and starter spins happily but doesn't catch and run.

Got it at home. Here's what I know, I need help:
*Plugs were black and wet. Reek of gas. Both look about the same.
*Put a new plug in the boot and it has spark. Coils in spec for resistance.
*New air filter for good measure. It was grungy.
*Fuel pump gives me 350ml on the money with three turns of the key. Fresh inline filter (HP filter is bypassed ages ago) and checked hose for flow (it flows)
*WFO throttle and starter give a noticable "bupbupbup" that isn't present otherwise.

Odd things:
*I put fresh plugs in and it started to idle high, popped, and died. Nothing doing after that.
*Left plugs out, rags in holes, and let the cylinders air out while at work. Idled a little, popped and died, with a burny smell on the next spin.
*When I popped the hose off the bottom of the pump, it sprayed so hard it got me in the eye. I don't remember it having had that much pressure before.

I'm losing my mind here. I'd be spark suspicious or compression suspicious but both cylinders look the same on the plugs, which I wouldn't expect from single cylinder catastrophe.

I'm getting good at taking the tank on and off though, so there's that? Mayday, Stromtroopers!
 

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Could still be the fuel pump, if the vanes are worn . It must put out pressure as well as volume. If the plugs are wet with fuel, and you have spark, it could be that raw fuel is being dumped in the intake. There must be high pressure at the injectors for a good spray of fuel/air mixture. The pressure when you pull the line is misleading, need a gauge to measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could still be the fuel pump, if the vanes are worn . It must put out pressure as well as volume. If the plugs are wet with fuel, and you have spark, it could be that raw fuel is being dumped in the intake. There must be high pressure at the injectors for a good spray of fuel/air mixture. The pressure when you pull the line is misleading, need a gauge to measure.
Not madness. It'd account for the kinda start when some fuel has a chance to aerosolize. Just ordered the E8229 fuel pump from rockauto that I left in my cart in case the volume test failed. Apart from the fuel rail at this point it's the only piece common to both cylinders. Here's hoping!
 

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If you have spark and that much raw gas, I am not thinking it is a fuel problem.

Spark is good, but only when it arrives at the correct time. While I want to point to the throttle position sensor, I have never seen one completely fail where it won't eventually start. But don't rule it out. You mention a charging system. Is there a chance your crankshaft position sensor might have come loose? Or maybe a wire from it has gotten pinched in the cover or elsewhere?
 

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I also think that it is electrical so long as you can guarantee that you do not have polluted fuel in the tank.

Popping or backfiring is usually associated with electrical issues. Fuel pressure or supply issues usually cause the engine just to run down below its idle speed and fade to a halt - like when you run out of fuel.

Some more info could help.
How long since (the shop?) adjusted the valves.
How far did you travel on the motorway without issues, before pulling up at some lights and the bike dying?
Does your bike fail EVERY time you go for a ride? If not what rides have been O.K.and under what conditions does it fail? Are there any similarities.
Could the fuel have somehow become contaminated - perhaps with water?
Are you sure that all the hoses have been correctly re-connected to the fuel tank?
What exactly is "a new charging set"?

There is no such thing as too much information.
Can we assume that you had to trailer your bike home from the lights and that it has not started since?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
In Orderish asked:

Crank sensor is brand spanking new and came with the new stator.

I wrench myself. The Stator was history and the R/R consequently suspect and for good measure all my rotor magnets had migrated to one side. I JB weld positioned the magnets as others have, replaced the stator/crank sensor and closed it up. Now you've got me paranoid I did something dumb with it, but there's a rubber grommet thing that creates a clean exit from the cover so I thiiiink that's ok. It's worth a look.

Valves were done like 4 months ago by me. It ran well for a month until the charging system shit itself for good in early May and the bike spent a weekend plugged into the wall at work. :|

Between exits it's something like 5-6 miles give or take. It was on the first gas warning blink when it died, which makes me wonder if I have some sludge built up that got in while it sat waiting for charging parts. Seems like 2-3 months isn't long enough but since I'm likely to have the pump out, I'll drain it all off and give it a gander. The 350ml that came out in my volume test looked alright.

Since dying the Bike fails EVERY time. I had to trailer it home, thankfully my co-coach that day has a trailer and owes me some bike rescues. :D

The bike is now a large navigation hazard in my garage. It'll crank just fine, and occasionally after sitting a bit will catch and run long enough to rev to 4kish then gradually die off. That gradual die off and the TOTAL lack of fuel stench in the garage despite copious useless cranking is one of the things that makes me fuel-suspicious.

Yeah, contamination was a concern and isn't off the table but as mentioned what I drained seemed ok and ran ok when I put it in my favorite test engine: The lawnmower that won't die.

New Charging set means a totally new stator and R/R unit (and gasket and Crank sensor secondarily).

The Boot unbooting from the throttle body is a good idea but A.) I've had that happen a couple times and it didn't present like this. B.) I checked anyway because you're right, happens a lot.

Thus far the theories that my Strom-sense likes best are the pump being weak or that I've cocked up the Crank position sensor somehow. I prefer the first because this feels too analog for a sensor failure.
 

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Three things are needed for an engine to run. Spark, compression, and fuel. Fuel is good. Compression is good. Spark is good. UNTIL you do not have spark or fuel. My money is on spark.

After it dies check to see if you still have spark. There may be a ground that occurs after the something warms up. If it dies and still has spark it has to be a fuel issue. If it does not have spark after running you have a heat related ground or a heat induced lack of continuity.
 

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What is WFO?

It may be a flaky Fuel Pump Relay which also powers the Fuel Injectors. Throwing parts at a bike that won't run can get expensive real fast so you need to test it but I don't know if there is a test procedure in the service manual for the relay. At the very least pull it and clean the connectors and (gently) bang it around a bit to loosen it up if the latch inside is sticking and not fully engaging. Also, if you examine the wiring diagram maybe there is a way to bypass it to get power to the pump/injectors as a test. Be careful what wires you jump as the relay is controlled by the ECU and you don't want to fry that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What is WFO?

It may be a flaky Fuel Pump Relay which also powers the Fuel Injectors. Throwing parts at a bike that won't run can get expensive real fast so you need to test it but I don't know if there is a test procedure in the service manual for the relay. At the very least pull it and clean the connectors and (gently) bang it around a bit to loosen it up if the latch inside is sticking and not fully engaging. Also, if you examine the wiring diagram maybe there is a way to bypass it to get power to the pump/injectors as a test. Be careful what wires you jump as the relay is controlled by the ECU and you don't want to fry that.
Wide :|:|:|:|in' Open - Max throttle. I tried WFO and cranking to make sure I wasn't just flooded.

Re: the Relay - The Relay's test procedure in service manual is pretty much "Does it close the circuit when you put power through the control circuit?" I've not actually tested yet but poppin' it out for percussive maintenance and connection cleanup won't hurt and is dead easy. It goes audibly "click" and the pump goes for my test (I did perform the scientific "put ear near it and listen" test.)

I assumed that a relay's failure state was NOPE, but if it was intermittently working I suppose that would make sense as a culprit. Tonight is percussive maintenance night. :D

Given the age and hard livin' of my Strom, and the incredibly small amount of time I have to work on it with three jobs and two young kids, throwing a part vs. doing a bitchy test has a breakeven amount around 40-50 bucks these days.
 

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My money is still on a weak fuel pump. A pressure test will tell. (Or if there's a friend with a strom nearby who will let you put his tank on the bike and see if it runs.)
 

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I'm not as familiar with the 1st gen's fuel system, but a guy at work that runs a Suzuki (not V-Strom) had a cracked injector once upon a time which could not stop the flow of gas into the cylinder. I didn't get the full details from him on failure presentation, but when you said that the plugs were black and fouled the thought of excessive fuel crossed my mind. I don't know if the Vee has individual injectors or a common throttle body injector, so I'm not sure that it would/could affect both cylinders. And the odds of individual injectors both cracking at the same time are pretty slim.

Did the new plugs turn black?

If it is a lack of fuel, then is it possible that the fuel rail has become obstructed after the filter? Say a small chunk of your extender line caps was ingested by the engine vacuum? Do the throttle body balance ports even lead to some internal critical air or fuel jet/orifice?

Just throwing around ideas... As I mentioned, I am not too familiar with the Vee fuel system.

Most recent changes are typically the first place to look, but you can't rule out an entirely new failure of some sensor or some such nonsense.

Any chance that the new stator/magnets are overcharging? Regulator not holding it down to 14VDC? Maybe a high voltage spike fried something?
 

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If the plugs are wet with gas in both cylinders then it's an ignition problem. If it was only one cylinder then it would probably be a coil but since it's in both cylinders it's something else. Probably in the wiring. My 2 cents.
 

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I suspect that an O-ring seal in or on your fuel pressure regulator has failed resulting in inadequate amounts of fuel entering the combustion chambers or otherwise causing the fuel injectors to not function properly.

Take a look at this thread on the VSRI forum. The start then gradually die symptom seems very similar to what you are experiencing. https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,33105.0.html

If I’m right you will most likely need part #2 on the drawing that shows the exploded view of the fuel pump installed in 2004-2006 DL1000s. On that diagram the fuel pressure regulator is not shown separately. However, if you look at the diagram for the 2003-2003 fuel pumps the fuel pressure regulator is shown as external to the high pressure fuel filter cartridge. I don't know if that is an error on the K4-K6 fuel pump diagram or the fuel pressure regulator is actually inside the high pressure fuel filter cartridge for the K4-K6 year model bikes.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/508afbb1f870023530722f36/fuel-pump-model-k4-k5-k6

I haven’t looked up the details of the fuel pump that you have ordered but i’m concerned that it may not include the fuel pressure regulator. However, you may only need the O-ring that is installed on the outside of the fuel pressure regulator. Note that on the fuel pressure regulator that failed in the VSRI thread that I've referenced the O-ring that failed was enclosed in a plastic housing.

In the owner's manual for my 2003 DL the fuel pressure test requires several special tools. If your fuel regulator is external to the high pressure filter cartridge you could just replace the O-ring external to the fuel pressure regulator and see if that cures the problem. If it doesn't then you will have to find a dealer or other shop that can test the fuel pressure regulator for proper function before purchasing a replacement.
 

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From auto experience, not bike experience. I had most of the same symptoms from a fuel injected car a couple of times. One instance turned out to be fouled fuel injectors. The fuel rather than spray, flowed in a stream onto the intake valve so it didn't atomize. It was fine until the car warmed up.
Another instance involved an enrichment valve where more fuel was sprayed during warm-up. With it not working, too much fuel was being sprayed when the engine warmed resulting in rich mixture and stalling. I don't know what the bikes use but I hope my experiences can help with the diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I suspect that an O-ring seal in or on your fuel pressure regulator has failed resulting in inadequate amounts of fuel entering the combustion chambers or otherwise causing the fuel injectors to not function properly.

Take a look at this thread on the VSRI forum. The start then gradually die symptom seems very similar to what you are experiencing. https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,33105.0.html
Nice Find. It does sound right.

Part 2 is all sold as one piece and includes the regulator. The regulator is not included in the Fuel pump kit I ordered. I ordered a different regulator which, like the pump I ordered, isn't gonna work. The Swift Pump is not suitable for my K5 (wrong shape/bottom/wiring.) Pictures of later years make it look like it'd work. (facepalm) I could probably get it in there with some jiggery pokery but I'm not thinking that's a great option.

Now that I can see the pump I've ordered a correct replacement from my friendly fly-by-night ebay seller. The FPR is accessible but they don't seem to sell it separately. It wouldn't surprise me to learn that the O-ring is captive in the Bigass Plastic Filter Contraption. Everything else in that expensive and not-super-servicable abortion of good sense seems to be.

NEXT:
I'm in hurry up and wait mode (again) now while the guy with the donkey shipping the pump gets here. That's gonna go in and we'll see what happens. If the pump doesn't square me away I'm going to pop open the generator cover, verify that the Crank position sensor is still set up right and not covered with mystery gunk or something dumb, then to the FPR and a descision on whether I try to rig a replacement or bite the bullet and shell out for the damn assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For fun, I just ambled out the garage (I work out of my basement some days) and gave the old FPR a tug to see if I could check the Oring.

The FPR is accessible but it is in there but good. Reasonably hard pull by hand doesn't dislodge it. The guy in that thread you reference had his FPR blowing off at 10psi, which would certainly create a sucky situation as seen with me. :| Ah well, a 200 Dollar stupid filter housing is less than a new bike, and I can keep my beloved Strom. (my wife observes when I threaten to shitcan it: "You are pissed because it is broken and you love it, not because you actually hate the bike." She's smart.)
 
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