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Discussion Starter #1
Bike & Details: 2009 VStrom DL1000, ~50K miles on it, Midgrade fuel w/ethanol. Recently replaced the TPS due to prior stalling issue after long rides. After TPS replace, there was a rear spark plug error code caused by a loose wire. Recently filled the oil, new chain added too.

The Problem: Every now and again, the bike doesn't want to start up. This happens randomly with no cause. Warn or cold bike, warn or cold weather, doesn't matter how long the bike has been sitting unused for.

Video of Problem: This happens so randomly and only once or twice every week or so that this is the first time I really got a chance to catch it on video.
In the video, you see how it won't want to start up. Smoke kicks up as well, I believe it's burning oil. The smoke comes from both around the clutch and out the tail pipes. My solution to get the bike running is to crank the gas and force it to run higher RPMs until it can warm up on its own.

 

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I don't work on bikes, so my answer will be vauge. But, I read through all your other started discussions from 2 and 6 months ago, and I bet they can all be traced to your TPS swap, starting with the "loose wire" you found in the connector for the rear injector. Before that you had engine bogging and lurches. Before that you had electrical problems with your headlights, which you never explained how they were fixed.

Do you know exactly how much oil you "filled" your bike with? And would you mind explaining the "stalling issues" that were going on before the TPS swap? And did you ever check your fuel filter / fuel flow, as suggested in your other post?

Theres alot of great help here, but honestly the best advice might be to have someone look at your bike in person. Mechanic. Friend. Mechanic friend? And be honest about every problem the bike has ever had. Not just it's current symptoms. You've been chasing engine trouble for two months. Something's up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Before that you had electrical problems with your headlights, which you never explained how they were fixed.

Do you know exactly how much oil you "filled" your bike with? And would you mind explaining the "stalling issues" that were going on before the TPS swap? And did you ever check your fuel filter / fuel flow, as suggested in your other post?
The headlights failed soon after I got caught in a really nasty storm, soaking everything completely in the massive downpour. The headlights issue was never resolved, I use an added on LED leadlight setup in place of the headlights. The headlights work if I hold down the bright button, but not through the regular setup.
I filled the bike with 10W-40 Valvoline brand oil. It's a bit over the full line when standing straight. Before, it was low on oil, at the low marker.
As for the stalling: After long rides (20+ minutes), the bike would stall out if there wasn't throttle constantly given. It would start right up again and usually calmed down after a cooldown/sitting around with the engine off.
I take the bike to a shop for most of the issues I have with it. The guy is a certified Suzuki Technician. He works on motorcycles and ATVs including Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda, and a few other brands.
I bought the bike as the third owner, the first one having done tons of upgrades including a fuel bypass to add a second tank and adding in plugs for heated winter suits. I got into an accident (link below) three days after I bought the bike. (I should hopefully be going to court and getting money for the damages soon.) I think that my issues are likely from the electrical system being damaged and or maybe some tiny/microscopic damages to the engine during the crash.
The stalling happened just before it got cold. I then replaced the TPS, chain, and sprockets. There was an error code which was resolved when the wire was shifted a bit. The failure to start issues began this winter after it got cold.

Crash:
 

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Damn, that sucks. Didnt see that comming. Thanks for the extra info. Sounds theres alot of wiring that might need to be dug into. But also, theres a slight possibility theres too much oil now. But, I'll let someone who knows better take over.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The most common connectors that give problems are, the big connector on the left hand side looking down between the fairing and fuel tank, and the connectors above the radiator. Have you had a look at Headlight problems? , Electrical conundrums and Power issue with low beams ?
Were there any aftermarket accessory wiring connection done to your ride? Do you have a wiring diagram for your ride?
The added on lights and heating plugs for heated suits are aftermarket electrical. I'm not good with electrical systems and dont have a diagram of it. I can understand what everything is if I look at the wiring harness, but cant diagnose the issue.
I want to resolve the headlights and possibly all the wiring issues that plague the bike. I worry the whole wiring harness is shot from my crash.
 

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Post #18 of dl 1000 issue has a wiring diagram for a K5 Vee, which should be useful to you. Tracing a harness / electrical related fault is tricky at the best of times, just like the knowledge on where each connector is located on you bike. A tip that I could share, would be to follow the wire color. Also a digital multi-meter will be helpful. If neither is on hand, you can create your own DIY test lamp / bulb (to check for current flow), by soldering electrical wire (as test leads) to a headlight bulb (one side to the casing and the other on either one of the underside tags). It is suggested that the lead that you are connecting the battery terminal, should have a crocodile clip to hold the test lead in place. If the bulb glows you have current flow. The test lamp is not as good as a multi-meter but is next best if you have nothing to test with..
As far as the harness damage goes, I suspect that the area steering stem / neck is a good point to start. Connect the test leads (be it multi-meter or test lamp) then move the harness to see if there is any change to the the test instrument reading.
Good luck and let us know how you progress.
 

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My NTM DL1000 seems to have an intermittent stalling problem. It usually happens at stops; red lights, stop signs, etc. I think it may be related to the clutch not disengaging completely and killing the engine, so now I make sure the lever is against the grip. Sometimes I can get it into second gear, pop the clutch and it restarts.
 

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@ Carlie Marlow, may I suggest that you also start your own thread. Any advice already posted in those replies to attempt to help / assist SlanderPete, may not be relevant to the problem that you are having.
 
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