Does this rear axle nut look right to you?

2498 Views 16 Replies 11 Participants Last post by blaustrom, 11 mo ago

tgeliot

Discussion Starter · 11 mo ago

It seems to me like the nut threads onto the axle a bit farther than it should. Yes? No? How does yours look by comparison? This is a 2008 DL650A.

I am twitchy about this because some years ago my rear wheel and bearings failed in a way that left the whole wheel loose and wobbly on the axle, with aluminum flakes all over and messed up bearings (I ended up trucking the bike home from Wyoming). The mechanic who looked at it said that a spacer was missing, although when I disassembled it at home and compared it to the manual, it seemed like everything was present and accounted for.

What say you? Am I just being paranoid?

Oh, yeah, of course it needs its cotter pin.

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ThruST

· #2 · 11 mo ago

Do you have a picture of the other side? Did you install the spacers correctly? Including the spacer under the drive?

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Stalky Tracker

· #3 · 11 mo ago

Ok, I went out and looked at mine. A K6 Wee with around 78,000 miles and I forget how many tire changes. Looks just like yours.

Mine does have a cotter pin in it though.

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hillsy

· #4 · 11 mo ago

The plate underneath the washer looks a bit compressed / warped - maybe that has allowed the axle nut to snug up some more?

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gdrew

· #5 · 11 mo ago

What did you torque it to? Did you use anti seize compound on the threads? If you used anti seize compound you should be torqueing it a significant amount less from what I remember about a post Grey Wolf commented on quite a while back.

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jettawreck

· #6 · 11 mo ago

The axle nut outer edge of mine (2007-650) goes to approx the center of the pin hole similar to yours. Except mine doesn't appear to have been thru the abrasive blasting/beating the one in the pic has suffered.

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blaustrom

· #7 · 11 mo ago

Yes it looks correct BUT the visible section of the axle threads look very worn!
If the axle is not to badly damaged you should trash that nut and replace it with the newer version that is self locking and does not need the pin. Those nuts are MUCH deeper and will be far less likely to cause galling of the axle threads! The original OEM nuts are a very poor design, hence they were replaced later!

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Carlhistory1

· #8 · 11 mo ago

blaustrom said:
Yes it looks correct BUT the visible section of the axle threads look very worn!
If the axle is not to badly damaged you should trash that nut and replace it with the newer version that is self locking and does not need the pin. Those nuts are MUCH deeper and will be far less likely to cause galling of the axle threads! The original OEM nuts are a very poor design, hence they were replaced later!

If you are so inclined replace all the parts and then you will be done with. One less thing to interfere with your ability to concentrate when riding. Does your rear wheel bearings need replacement? Mine did around 46,000 miles on a 2005 wee that has 61,00 miles on it?

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phog

· #9 · 11 mo ago (Edited)

If the washer-spacers are in the right location and orientation (behold my #8 spacer blunder, here: Chain jerk when in gear), and the bearings don't have too many miles on them,then I'd just put another thin washer in there next to the castle nut to shim it out a bit. Those threads look dry, and the nut bears battle scars from someone who tried to "go medieval" on tighening things. Snug does it, the cotter pin negates the need for a gall-inducing death grip to keep that nut from backing out.

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bwringer

· #10 · 11 mo ago

Agreed -- regarding your question, it's fine.

But those threads on the axle are down to their last few molecules. It WILL gall and strip. Replace the axle and nut ASAP and PDQ.

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Solo

· #11 · 11 mo ago

Agree about that axle, replace.
After replacing that nut, you might want to use a 6 point socket that fits. Those corners are too rounded off

tgeliot

Discussion Starter · #12 · 11 mo ago

ThruST said:
Do you have a picture of the other side? Did you install the spacers correctly? Including the spacer under the drive?

It's been so long since I've had it apart that I can't recall. I'll be taking it apart to replace the sprocket anyway, so I'll double check everything then.

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tgeliot

Discussion Starter · #13 · 11 mo ago

hillsy said:
The plate underneath the washer looks a bit compressed / warped - maybe that has allowed the axle nut to snug up some more?

Yes, I guess that could be the case. I'll look at that more closely.

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tgeliot

Discussion Starter · #14 · 11 mo ago

gdrew said:
What did you torque it to? Did you use anti seize compound on the threads? If you used anti seize compound you should be torqueing it a significant amount less from what I remember about a post Grey Wolf commented on quite a while back.

70 ft lbs, as I recall. Whatever the manual called for. No, I did not use anti-sieze, although I guess it's possible there's still some on there from the previous owner. I'll see if I see any traces on the threads.

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tgeliot

Discussion Starter · #15 · 11 mo ago

blaustrom said:
Yes it looks correct BUT the visible section of the axle threads look very worn!
If the axle is not to badly damaged you should trash that nut and replace it with the newer version that is self locking and does not need the pin. Those nuts are MUCH deeper and will be far less likely to cause galling of the axle threads! The original OEM nuts are a very poor design, hence they were replaced later!

Hey, thanks. I had never heard about this before. Do I get this nut from a Suzuki dealer, or Ace hardware, or what?

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tgeliot

Discussion Starter · #16 · 11 mo ago

Solo said:
Agree about that axle, replace.
After replacing that nut, you might want to use a 6 point socket that fits. Those corners are too rounded off

Not a bad idea about the socket, except that I have not one, not two, but THREE 12-point sockets that fit this. Sigh.

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blaustrom

· #17 · 11 mo ago

tgeliot said:
Hey, thanks. I had never heard about this before. Do I get this nut from a Suzuki dealer, or Ace hardware, or what?

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You need to buy the newer OEM self-locking nut. Not sure when they changed the design, around 2012?? maybe. Go check the OEM parts listings, you will see.

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