Does this chain Breaker and Riviting kit look complete?

3920 Views 22 Replies 13 Participants Last post by BUZZ13, 8 mo ago

xtian

Discussion Starter · 8 mo ago

4

I bought this cheap ($20) chain break/rivit kit (for 525) on eBay
It's obviously a second, because the "handle" doesn't have a matching thread on the "vice" part. LOL.

I've never used one before.
Is this kit is complete?
Is the kit sufficient to the task?

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There are three pin extractors and then there's this. Spring, pin and steel ball? and what's this plate for?

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I would assume this is the riviting configuration

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But strangely,the bb part and the divit part are not aligned. Even this channel is not parallel to the body of the vice.

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I know it's not quality engineering, but is it sufficient to the task?

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oldjeep

· #2 · 8 mo ago

Looks like the same one I have, except built wrong. .You might want to try YouTube for directions after you get one that was machined right

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Rolex

· #3 · 8 mo ago

That plate is used to push the chain side plate on.

Unlike a clip type joiner, with a rivet system the chain side plate is forced on before the end of the pins are squashed over to keep it all in place.

The tool should have pins to push out old chain pins and a pin for flaring the top of the new chain pins.

From what I can see you should be able to do that with those parts but the only way to know is to try it.

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oldjeep

· #4 · 8 mo ago

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Brockie

· #5 · 8 mo ago

That looks complicated. I use my angle grinder to remove or shorten a chain. Grind any pair of pins down to the side plate and punch out with hammer and nail.

Also the EK chain threaded link is a recent simpler joining method.

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StretchNM

· #6 · 8 mo ago

For you guys who have cut, installed, and finished chains before, the first RK video might be ok, because you already fully understand the process. But I found it completely confusing. The guy using the tool was in no way in-sync with the guy reading the instructions, and there was zero detail of the process. I'm sure having the tool and instructions I'd get the job done. The tool looks like quality, but the fact that RK put their name on THAT video tells me a lot about the company.

The EK video, while admittedly a much more simple process, was much better. And, I like that screw on link and pin flaring. Thanks for that one.

PeteW

· #7 · 8 mo ago

Even faster since I throw the old chains away. I unhook the chain from the sprocket, clamp it in a vice I sit on the floor and just cut through the side plates.

I found the EK screw links usable but their chains just didn't last as long as DID so I went back to press fit. Once you have the technique down it's near as easy as a screw link anyway.

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Gert

· #8 · 8 mo ago

I bought the same chain toolkit as in #4 above, after reading Replaced my Chain and Sprockets (w/photos), Recommendation for a chain riveting/breaker ool and various other similar threads. The price was good at the time and it does the job. The pin breakage was a concern so the angle grinder is now part of the chain replacement process.

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xtian

Discussion Starter · #9 · 8 mo ago

Most of the time a tool for 25$-$50 is the same quality with different marketing. So in case you were curious, this is how a $25 tool is fracked. LOL

Anyone try using a DID chaing tool on EK/RK chain?

oldjeep

· #10 · 8 mo ago

xtian said:
Most of the time a tool for 25$-$50 is the same quality with different marketing. So in case you were curious, this is how a $25 tool is fracked. LOL

Anyone try using a DID chaing tool on EK/RK chain?

This is the $22 one that I have - works great.

www.amazon.com

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rd.king

· #11 · 8 mo ago

Is there a problem with using the simple circlip master link on final drive chains for Vstroms.
I've always liked that about all my old Harley's, if you needed a chain,
all you had to do was pull into any farming equipment service center
buy the length of .530 and a master and you were back on the road again.

oldjeep

· #12 · 8 mo ago

rd.king said:
Is there a problem with using the simple circlip master link on final drive chains for Vstroms.
I've always liked that about all my old Harley's, if you needed a chain,
all you had to do was pull into any farming equipment service center
buy the length of .530 and a master and you were back on the road again.

Spring clips are for bicycles. The spring clips can rust or just pop off

locoblanco

· #13 · 8 mo ago

rd.king said:
...all you had to do was pull into any farming equipment service center
buy the length of .530 and a master and you were back on the road again.

Those days are gone forever, and not just for chains but darn near everything.

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xtian

Discussion Starter · #14 · 8 mo ago

oldjeep said:
This is the $22 one that I have - works great.

Ah. man. That's the one I bought! haha

oldjeep

· #15 · 8 mo ago

xtian said:
Ah. man. That's the one I bought! haha

I must have gotten the straight one

. Just return it, Amazon is great for returns.

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Brockie

· #16 · 8 mo ago

rd.king said:
Is there a problem with using the simple circlip master link on final drive chains for Vstroms.

You've done it now.
Prepare for a peened vs. clip debate.

My 10c. I have never lost a chain clip. Mind you, I install them very carefully and do not allow my chain to get rusty.

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rd.king

· #17 · 8 mo ago

Brockie said:
You've done it now.
Prepare for a peened vs. clip debate.

My 10c. I have never lost a chain clip. Mind you, I install them very carefully and do not allow my chain to get rusty.

Me either, 40+ years riding with basic roller chains with circlips.
So no valid reason not to use circlips, Just hearsay about improperly installed or poorly maintained equipment.

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Hans471

· #18 · 8 mo ago

I have ridden for decades and raced off road for years. Between my dealership/repair shop, my own road and race bikes, I have done more chains than I could count. I used clipped chains on my race bikes and road bikes until just a few years back. I never had a clip come off. Now that said, I was a pro. I did these things almost daily in my shop. I kept new quality, name brand, master links and clips in stock and replaced them often. Race bikes had their chains removed and cleaned after each race so those clips got a lot of use. I always insured the clip groves were 100% clean and that the masterlink was inspected for wear and the clip was properly installed. If there was any question at all about the fit or tightness of the clip it was replaced. But then if you have ever seriously raced you know attention to details is the difference between winning and a DNF. In the shop we had true professional grade (say "expensive") tools and they held up for years. A quick filing of grinding on the head of a rivet really makes the job easier and greatly extends the life of your tools.

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jimbo74

· #19 · 8 mo ago

motion pro pbr

but still advised to grind the heads off the pins before you try to push them through

Solarguy

· #20 · 8 mo ago

I have the generic cheapo imported tool. It works fine....ish. I grind the head off first as cheap insurance.

The higher the horsepower, the less appropriate the clip links become. If you use one, make sure the gap faces the rear when it's on the "top" of the chain under tension. In real life, they rarely fail. But when they do it could lock up your rear tire. It could slam around into your engine case and ruin your engine. It could cause you to wreck.

Would you bet your motorcycle and your life that the clip will never fail?

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