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Discussion Starter #1
I went to Suzuki looking for the pig tail part no. and they cannot come up with it. This is for the auxilliary connector to run the heated grips ,,,, in my case they are Kimpex.

I found the pig tail way up under the tank so that was a big part of it or so I thought.

Thanks
D-dog
 

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Got to ask for the right thing...

36852-06G00
Description WIRE,HORN LEAD
Price $7.02

Item #7

 

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Discussion Starter #3
:D YOU ARE THE MAN, YOU ARE THE MAN, YOU ARE THE MAN.

Heavy, you have helped me before and did again, you pushed me to LOOK instead of whine. Thanks again.

So with that ,can I get your opinion on which is the best way to do the heater installation. Place the heaters under the grips or on the outside. If outside and over the stock grip, what would be a good material to cover the heaters with? I thin wrap of some sort glued to the heater?

Your imagination on seeing how to do things is, well, pretty cool.

Thanks
D-dog
 

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Glad to help.

I used the Symtec grip heater kit on my Strom.



They attach to the bars, under the grips. Only modification I did was to wrap the clutch side of the handlebars with insulating pipe wrap before I put the heating element on. This keeps the heater from direct contact with the handlebar so it doesn't act like a heat sink. Basically, it allows the clutch side to warm up the same as the throttle side.

http://www.symtec-inc.com/New Motorcycle Page.htm

I'm using the ProGrip 714 grips and, on low, the Symtecs are very warm. I bet, with a more solid grip design they would be even hotter. I doubt I'll ever use the high setting...I'd be afraid to melt my grips. :lol:



Good luck with it.
 

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If you never use the high setting, think about wiring the grips in series instead of in parallel. You will use less power that way and be able to use both the high and low settings.
 

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Heavy, what is the power draw of your heated grips ??
 

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Excellent idea GW.

Another winter project for the list.

greywolf said:
If you never use the high setting, think about wiring the grips in series instead of in parallel. You will use less power that way and be able to use both the high and low settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I intend to use a Heat-troller variable heat controller and was going to cover the clutch side of the handle bar with heat shrink tubing to isolate the handle bar from the heater. Good idea.

Heavy, is that the insulation tape you were talking about? not a roll of tape but a heat shink tape that covers the whole handle bar. Seems like atight fit by the time you get the heater and the insulation tape alos crammed in underneath the grip.

Seems like I'm making a simple mole hill in mount fuji .....
 

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Dirty Dog said:
Heavy, is that the insulation tape you were talking about? not a roll of tape but a heat shink tape that covers the whole handle bar. Seems like atight fit by the time you get the heater and the insulation tape alos crammed in underneath the grip.

Seems like I'm making a simple mole hill in mount fuji .....
I've used the (reflective) metal tape from HVAC systems before on the clutch side; don't have any empirical data to prove that it works or doesn't, but it made sense.

KevinL
 

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The stuff I used is supposed to be a combination sealant/insulation wrap. Its about 1/16" thick, sticky one side with what looks like 1 layer of thin rubber and 1 layer of teflon, or something. I picked it up in the plumbing section of Canadian Tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Klong and Heavy, how did you cram 1/16 plus 1/16=1/8"insulation plus whatever the actual heater thickness is between the bar and the grip which with nothing at all in there was already a tight fit?

Must have been some pretty slippery ass shit., so how did you get the job done. Just curious.

D-dog
 

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Ok, so the tape is 1/32" thick... shrug

I have been using my wife's hairspray to install new grips. Liberally, spray it on the handlebars and the inside of the grips. The stuff is slippery like crazy when wet and sticky like glue when it dries. I've used to to change grips 6 or 7 times on motorcycles and numerous times on bicycles, with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Heavy, one more question heated grips. Throttle side?

Heavy, one more favor from you. I got the hand warmers on and used hair spray that slipped even after letting it set all nite. Then tried the old tried and true spray paint which also slipped and did not realise the grip was twisting and tore the wires from the element when I went out for a test run.

What else will guarantee that the grip won't rotate? I thought about using safety wiring the grips in 3-4 places as on motoX bikes. Will that cut the element? Also the ridges that are on the throttle tube, would they need to be filed down to keep from cutting into the element when tightening the wire ties? If the ridges are removed, the element will fit tight all the way around.

I guess spring for another heater set and see what happens again.

Is there any way to salvage the trashed element?

Thanks again
D dog
 

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No idea if you can save the damaged heating element. I guess you'll have to get in there and see if you can solder the wires back on...I don't put much hope in that though.

As for attaching the grips, I have about 10,000 miles on mine, including some torrential rain riding, using the hairspray method, and they're still fine. Sorry it didn't work out for you. I know you can buy grip glue, which I think is just a slow set crazy glue.

Take a look at:

http://street.parts-unlimited.com/13/1332/2510028

or this

http://www.pitposse.com/thgrgl.html

Sorry about the damaged set, good luck with the next ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Heavy, what about ribs on the grips?

Last question. What about the ribs on the grips, do they keep the element from seating down competely on the throttle tube? I took extra pains to get them to conform but am not totally satisfied with how well that worked. Since you did not say you ground them off, I reckon they are still on there?

Again, thanks for all of the help.

Ride safe, man

D Dog
 

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I just compressed air to get the grips back on. On my clutch side I had also installed the heat shrink tubing that Dual Star supplies. This fattened up my grip quite a bit but the compressed air still made it fairly easy to install.
 

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If you never use the high setting, think about wiring the grips in series instead of in parallel. You will use less power that way and be able to use both the high and low settings.
That could be a good and simple solution.
I have no any experience on heated grips but let me warn Heavy on two things:
1. If you wire in series and a wire brake (cut?) happens both side will be "switched off".
2. By series wiring the generated heat on one grip will be 1/4th of what is by the parallel setting.​
 

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My throttle tube had a fairly large circumferential rib, close to the throttle housing, which I ground off. The small longitudinal ribs were of no concern...to me anyway. I left them alone and just slapped the heater over top.

What kind of hair spray does your wife use? Maybe different brands work differently. My wife uses some extra hold stuff in a green pump bottle. Its as slick as warm snot (
)when you first spray it but holds like glue when it dries.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Heavy, ? on throttle tube&NEP cruise control

Ok, I think the heater is under control, what happens when installing the NEP cruise with stock Strom grips that roll over the angled plastic portion next to the throttle housing?
If you try to roll it over it interfers with the cruise control big time. I heard or saw that some people left the rubber rolled back. I don't see how that can work either. Zuki guys are pretty smart and didn't add that part to the rubber grip just because they thought it would help... just a little bit. I bet its a big help in keeping the rubber grip from slipping on the tube.

Hope you don't have to cut the rubber U shape off that rolls over the angled part of the tube, but can if thats what it takes, I can.

Any thoughts on this.

D Dog

PS; re-soldering the wire back on the grips did not work because of the plastic coating over the heating element. Caused a very dirty solder joint which did not hold.
 
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