in 90k I've had 4 stator failures. no problems with rectifier, or movement of magnets, one replacement was aftermarket (Rick's) did not last as long as oem. My current stator is the one that has lasted longest, 40k and counting. I do a lot of winter riding and use heat, so I ride at the limits quite a bit, but not so much the last 40k
Does anyone carry a spare stator and rectifier.
It seems many agree that the stator and rectifier are prone to failure. Is it common enough that one should carry a spare on a long trip? I'm going to JB Weld my magnets so failure from shifting magnets that should not be a problem. I don't want to over do it do these things really fail that often? How many miles do your stator and rectifier last?
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Based on Murphy's law, chances are good that you may end up needing a new gasket, once you open the stator cover.
A volt meter or similar ro help keep a check on the charging system is a good idea.
A volt meter or similar ro help keep a check on the charging system is a good idea.
I wouldn't bother with the 1000,
the 650 is more of a problem, if I had any concerns I would fit a series reg before leaving town.
My 09 wee is all original, keep the loads high along with the oil level to keep it cool.
Saying that I think what would work for many is any spares could be left with a friend or family member, if a problem shows up get them to put the part required in the post.
the 650 is more of a problem, if I had any concerns I would fit a series reg before leaving town.
My 09 wee is all original, keep the loads high along with the oil level to keep it cool.
Saying that I think what would work for many is any spares could be left with a friend or family member, if a problem shows up get them to put the part required in the post.
volt meter got me home once from a failure nearly 100 miles away, I noticed the failure as soon asthe charging system couldn't keep the meter over 13v, I did not pull over immediately, I went about another half mile to where I was on a downhill stretch, I stopped, unplugged my headlights, and coasted to get it started rather than using the starter,Based on Murphy's law, chances are good that you may end up needing a new gasket, once you open the stator cover.
A volt meter or similar ro help keep a check on the charging system is a good idea.
Based on Murphy's law, chances are good that you may end up needing a new gasket, once you open the stator cover.
A volt meter or similar ro help keep a check on the charging system is a good idea.
If you read a lost cat forum you'll come away thinking that every cat is missing. If you're concerned about the stator, upgrade your R/R to a series and pull the stator cover, inspect it for browning or burning spots and install a voltmeter. Then worry less and ride more.
I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you have a voltmeter installed you should get some warning and be able to ride (or worse case, towed) home or to the nearest metro area if touring where it can be fixed. Stators are a wear item like tires or chains and typically last 50-60K miles but with a lot of variance (+/- 20K).
If your current stator has a lot of miles on it you could install a new stator plus a Shindengen series R/R as preventative maintenance for peace of mind. I would not install a series R/R on a high mileage used stator. The way a series R/R works causes higher voltages (but lower current, i.e. less heat) compared to a non-series or shunt R/R and could push an older stator with degraded insulation to failure. The effects on insulation are cumulative so the series R/R seems to solve the fried-stator problem but you should still have a voltmeter.
If your current stator has a lot of miles on it you could install a new stator plus a Shindengen series R/R as preventative maintenance for peace of mind. I would not install a series R/R on a high mileage used stator. The way a series R/R works causes higher voltages (but lower current, i.e. less heat) compared to a non-series or shunt R/R and could push an older stator with degraded insulation to failure. The effects on insulation are cumulative so the series R/R seems to solve the fried-stator problem but you should still have a voltmeter.
Voltmeter and if necessary buy a car battery and some jumper cables when it fails on a trip, put the battery in the top box or tie it to the pillion seat and you have a couple of days riding. Have a charger, charge the battery when you can and you could manage quite a long trip.
Back in our Honda VFR days, Polarbear 99 and I carried a spare RR and stator (one each) on our summer road trips. VFRs and V-Strom 650s have similar charging issues.
That decision paid off one day in 2016 in Hope, BC when his bike was producing no volts and we did a roadside charging system replacement.
Since then we bought First Gen V-Strom 650s and when my stator failed, we bought SH847 RRs and installed the OEM stator used in the 650 recall (for bikes newer than ours) with the coveted 32101-17G13 part number.
All has been well ever since.
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That decision paid off one day in 2016 in Hope, BC when his bike was producing no volts and we did a roadside charging system replacement.
Since then we bought First Gen V-Strom 650s and when my stator failed, we bought SH847 RRs and installed the OEM stator used in the 650 recall (for bikes newer than ours) with the coveted 32101-17G13 part number.
All has been well ever since.
I installed a series R/R on my '05 1000 (not high miles) to make life a bit easier for my stator. I carry the original R/R under the seat just in case mostly because there was room for it.
It seems that best practice would be to install an SH847 R/R and ride on. Are there any draw back or trade-offs to installing a series regulator? I've read in other threads about all the benefits but haven't read anything about potential drawbacks.
The only issues crop up if the stator is already marginal. Stator voltages are higher and if the insulation is near breaking down that'll finish it off. Short of that and mounting issues. No.
Ok, this is ll great information, but admittedly, I understand none of it in technical terms.
I started perusing these threads as I'm interested in setting myself up for non-failure on an upcoming trip planned for Alaska.
I saw some confusing, for me, contradictory information and I'm hoping someone can explain in moron terms what might be my best choice to replace not only my reg/rec, but stator should I decide to do so.
What I'm not understanding, is a statement series of posts from greywolf and others in an old thread about this same subject.
Something called MOSFET, and in the same post he corrects himself to say that what was used was series.
And in yet another post topic but relative, he talked about how much cooler one is. But I was unable to tell 8f he was referring to the MOSFET(I read the definition but admittedly am clueless to it's actual real.world meaning) or a shingden(sp) 847? R/R.
I'm so far down this rabbit hole I'd like to crawl out for a while if someone might toss me an informational lifeline I'd be grateful.
I had a good friend who knew this stuff inside out. He could recite it in his sleep and his talks would usually put me to sleep. Maybe I should have stayed awake.
He has passed away suddenly recently. So, I'm unable to tap that source. He is surely missed for many reasons. This being one of them, to many people we know.
So, a long way to ask for help. Please and thank you.
I started perusing these threads as I'm interested in setting myself up for non-failure on an upcoming trip planned for Alaska.
I saw some confusing, for me, contradictory information and I'm hoping someone can explain in moron terms what might be my best choice to replace not only my reg/rec, but stator should I decide to do so.
What I'm not understanding, is a statement series of posts from greywolf and others in an old thread about this same subject.
Something called MOSFET, and in the same post he corrects himself to say that what was used was series.
And in yet another post topic but relative, he talked about how much cooler one is. But I was unable to tell 8f he was referring to the MOSFET(I read the definition but admittedly am clueless to it's actual real.world meaning) or a shingden(sp) 847? R/R.
I'm so far down this rabbit hole I'd like to crawl out for a while if someone might toss me an informational lifeline I'd be grateful.
I had a good friend who knew this stuff inside out. He could recite it in his sleep and his talks would usually put me to sleep. Maybe I should have stayed awake.
He has passed away suddenly recently. So, I'm unable to tap that source. He is surely missed for many reasons. This being one of them, to many people we know.
So, a long way to ask for help. Please and thank you.
Here is my comment in a recent thread that explains it all as simply as possible (but read the whole thread). Shindengen Reg/Rec - which one?So, a long way to ask for help. Please and thank you.
The long and short of it is that you don't have to get lost in the weeds in the technical details of how these R/Rs work you just need to know enough to make a wise choice. Also, you can ignore some of the older threads as early on there was some confusion regarding MOSFETs and etc. and whether they were shunt or series type, including greywolf's comments.
Thank you for your response.Here is my comment in a recent thread that explains it all as simply as possible (but read the whole thread). Shindengen Reg/Rec - which one?
The long and short of it is that you don't have to get lost in the weeds in the technical details of how these R/Rs work you just need to know enough to make a wise choice. Also, you can ignore some of the older threads as early on there was some confusion regarding MOSFETs and etc. and whether they were shunt or series type, including greywolf's comments.
A little more detail from me and a request for an opinion, if you would.
2007 DL1k
A touch under 44,000 on the odo.
New to me a year ago but just digging into it now.
It's got heated grips, accessory plugs, and I intend to add gps connections and have heated gear available for use for my trip.
You mentioned a lower amp 775 vs the higher 847
Considering the usage I have, and potential to have, still the lower?
No LEDs but maybe at some point? Correction, it has flash LEDs for a back-off brake light setup.
Stator is yet to be inspected, but given the known so far, would not a prudent rider change them both?
If that's the case, then which way would you recommend I proceed?
Or, if the stator looks reasonably good with wiring etc looking roadworthy, aside from JB weld fixes to the magnets if needed, which direction would be reasonable?
Yes, a neophyte in the way of electrons. I can wrench. I just don't electric(big picture) well. Solder, connectors, wire, etc., ok.
Thanks in advance.
I don't know the DL1000 as I have only owned the DL650. That said, I think the generator output on the Vee is still rated at 30 amps or 400 watts max output (someone correct me if that is wrong) so either should work fine. However, on the later Vee models (2017?) Suzuki did switch to the Shindengen series R/R and they went with the SH847 with the higher rated capacity so if you want to be sure then go with the SH847 or just buy one from Suzuki (not sure what year they made the switch).Thank you for your response. A little more detail from me and a request for an opinion, if you would. 2007 DL1k. A touch under 44,000 on the odo. New to me a year ago but just digging into it now. It's got heated grips, accessory plugs, and I intend to add gps connections and have heated gear available for use for my trip. No LEDs but maybe at some point? Correction, it has flash LEDs for a back-off brake light setup.
~
You mentioned a lower amp SH775 vs the higher SH847
Considering the usage I have, and potential to have, still the lower?
BTW, the power usage for the R/R is a bit counter intuitive. The more power your extra lights and heated gear uses the less power the R/R has to be able to dump. One reason people switch to LED lights (apart from better lighting) is not to reduce the load on the generator or R/R but to free up power to run more heated gear. There is only so much power coming out of the generator and if you exceed its capacity the battery will not charge. Do a search on the site for the available wattage or power on the DL1000 and figure out how much you are using versus what is available. LED's may not even be necessary.
An inspection, unless the damage is already severe, won't tell you if the stator is about to fail and you'd probably already be seeing symptoms if the stator is visibly burned. With 44K miles on that stator I'd just leave it and the OEM shunt R/R alone till they quit working and replace them as a pair with a switch to a series R/R.Stator is yet to be inspected, but given the known so far, would not a prudent rider change them both? If that's the case, then which way would you recommend I proceed? Or, if the stator looks reasonably good with wiring etc looking roadworthy, aside from JB weld fixes to the magnets if needed,which direction would be reasonable?
With a shunt R/R these stators are a wear item like tires or chains. They typically last around 50K miles but with a variance of +/- 20K miles. So yours could last another 10-20K miles or more. I'd JB the magnets since that is a common problem, inspect the stator for burn marks while you got it open and test the AC volts and install a voltmeter and learn the normal voltage pattern.
I have a voltmeter on my Wee and one week I noted that the voltage was not rising as quickly as it used to when starting from a stop. I immediately ran the AC stator test and one of the legs was low relative to the others so I replaced it and never got stranded.
It takes all kinds to make the world go round.Yes, a neophyte in the way of electrons. I can wrench. I just don't electric (big picture) well. Solder, connectors, wire, etc., ok. Thanks in advance.
If you really get into trouble, buy a small car battery, charger and jumper leads and sit that in the top box, charge nights. If you have dual headlights, unplug the inside light.
DL's do not draw immense amounts of current anyway, in most cases that'll get you home.
DL's do not draw immense amounts of current anyway, in most cases that'll get you home.
Thank you for your thoughtful and informational response. It looks like I've got some research and inspecting to do.I don't know the DL1000 as I have only owned the DL650. That said, I think the generator output on the Vee is still rated at 30 amps or 400 watts max output (someone correct me if that is wrong) so either should work fine. However, on the later Vee models (2017?) Suzuki did switch to the Shindengen series R/R and they went with the SH847 with the higher rated capacity so if you want to be sure then go with the SH847 or just buy one from Suzuki (not sure what year they made the switch).
BTW, the power usage for the R/R is a bit counter intuitive. The more power your extra lights and heated gear uses the less power the R/R has to be able to dump. One reason people switch to LED lights (apart from better lighting) is not to reduce the load on the generator or R/R but to free up power to run more heated gear. There is only so much power coming out of the generator and if you exceed its capacity the battery will not charge. Do a search on the site for the available wattage or power on the DL1000 and figure out how much you are using versus what is available. LED's may not even be necessary.
An inspection, unless the damage is already severe, won't tell you if the stator is about to fail and you'd probably already be seeing symptoms if the stator is visibly burned. With 44K miles on that stator I'd just leave it and the OEM shunt R/R alone till they quit working and replace them as a pair with a switch to a series R/R.
With a shunt R/R these stators are a wear item like tires or chains. They typically last around 50K miles but with a variance of +/- 20K miles. So yours could last another 10-20K miles or more. I'd JB the magnets since that is a common problem, inspect the stator for burn marks while you got it open and test the AC volts and install a voltmeter and learn the normal voltage pattern.
I have a voltmeter on my Wee and one week I noted that the voltage was not rising as quickly as it used to when starting from a stop. I immediately ran the AC stator test and one of the legs was low relative to the others so I replaced it and never got stranded.
It takes all kinds to make the world go round.
I've found, through here, a source for R/Rs, thank you all.
How about for stators? Do you all recommend anywhere?
I'm finding one, and it's a whopper of a price tag. In the range of $450 with shipping. But that seems to be.thw whole assembly though.
Are they able to be purchased as individual parts that you know of?
Thanks again for your input.
Rick's do one for under $200 US. It doesn't have the ignition trigger coil so hence probably cheaper than what you've been looking at.Thank you for your thoughtful and informational response. It looks like I've got some research and inspecting to do.
I've found, through here, a source for R/Rs, thank you all.
How about for stators? Do you all recommend anywhere?
I'm finding one, and it's a whopper of a price tag. In the range of $450 with shipping. But that seems to be.thw whole assembly though.
Are they able to be purchased as individual parts that you know of?
Thanks again for your input.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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