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I just picked up a 2014 Vstrom 650 with 6400 miles and the owner's manual states that the spark plugs should be changed every 2 years, or at a ~7,000-7,500 mile interval:



Is it just me or does this seem obsessive? This is my first bike, coming from the car industry where quality spark plugs easily last 50k mileage if not more.

Also, the owner's manual states that different spark plugs can be bought depending on conditions. Here in SE PA, the weather varies to "super cold" in winter (garage storage) with brisk spring / fall rides, to 95F summer days. Which ones of these models would be best to get (if I should replace them)?

 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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No. The plugs for 2012 and later are Iridium plugs that are good for at least 50,000 miles.
 

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Damn. I thought it would be oil for sure.

Who saw spark plugs coming?

What you ought to do, really, is have a good look at the brake calipers. That's something you can give a once over. Pull them off the bike, remove the pads, and clean everything up. Then reinstall.

Edit: Don't undo the brake line! No need to drain brake fluid.
 

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Suzuki may be allowing for the fact that someone might run the bike at 9000 rpm all day long, which would shorten the life of the plugs. At 3000 rpm each plug fires 50 times per second, if I recall my engine theory correctly, so the plugs in a motorcycle engine can't be expected to last as long as a lower revving car engine.
 

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And funny Suzuki even lists iridium plug part numbers.
Must own an iridium farm somewhere.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Brake fluid should be flushed through with new stuff every two years.
 

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Interesting when riders talk maintenance. Generally, I do what the manufacturer calls for when it calls for it. That way, I dont even have to think about the "What if?". I'm not made of money, and I dont live to wrench on my mechanical things...but it is MY bike, I dont spare expenses with it, and while any part can fail for no apparent reason(although there is ALWAYS a reason), the most I can hope for is tilting the odds in my favor. If that requires time, effort, and $$, so be it. I save here, spend there.
But there are exceptions based on my work experience. I change oil every 3K miles with the filter. I dont see the wisdom in contaminating fresh oil with oil in the old filter. Also, that oil filter mounting o-ring can shrink and harden with age. Ive seen this many times, oil filter leaking, loose when checked when I know I had securely tightened it when I changed the customer's oil and filter 2-5 years ago, lol. Filters are inexpensive. I'm already changing the oil, what's $6 and some time?
I checked my '14 DL1K factory service manual--it too calls for spark plug replacement at 7500 miles. I'm speculating here, but I suspect the short interval is due to the fact that this bike is equipped with a catalytic converter, and an ignition-related missfire can destroy it. The EPA would be less than thrilled with that situation.The terms of the emission warranty are in a separate booklet--or so it says in my owners manual--but I didnt get one with the purchase of the bike. I'll be on the phone to Suzuki USA shortly to obtain a booklet and the terms of the emissions warranty. Now that most motorcycles have the same basic hardware as cars, it would be good to know who pays in the case of, let's say, an O2 sensor failure, ECU, ISC, TPS, and whatever else is in the system. Meanwhile, I'll replace the plugs when the time comes and not give it a second thought.
Here's a good one that had me scratching my head, and having a discussion with Suzuki Customer Service and my dealer's service advisor: Each and every time you adjust the drivechain, the shop manual calls for replacement of the rear axle nut. At $25+ per nut, I'll be damned if I spend $100+ to adjust my chain 4 times. Not gonna happen. Suzi says that's what it calls for and stood by that. My dealer says they change the nut every OTHER adjustment. When I showed them in print what Suzi requires, and that if one of their techs doesnt change the nut, and something comes loose for whatever reason--a good lawyer would chew them up and spit them out. Liability and litigation is a huge part of vehicle repair these days. The service advisor freaked out, said they will be changing that nut each time from now on. Mechanically, is it really necessary? Probably not. But there it is on the written page.
I change my brake fluid every year without fail, coolant at the time of a major service with plugs, filters, etc. Valve adjust at the recommended interval. Brake fluid is cheap, an ABS pump is not. And I generally run out of time before miles on most maintenance intervals.
But, that's just ME. Just use common sense and maintain your bike as you see fit.
 

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The manual says a new cotter pin needs to be used, not a new axle nut. Where did you see that?
 

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Suzuki DL1000A Service Manual, Rear Wheel Components, Page 2D-6
Item #15 Rear Axle Nut (X) Next to number (X)- Do not reuse. This is a self-locking nut, no cotter pin involved. Axle threads not cross-drilled for a cotter pin.

I checked the same deal with a friend's '15 Yamaha FJ09 that I service--same deal, self-locking nut but does not show replacement required.
 

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These bikes honestly "need/require" very little maintenance, much of what is in the manual is hogwash.
 

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I don't have that manual. The 2012 DL650s use a Fuji style nut too but the manual says nothing about replacing it. That's crazy. The real problem is galling. The 72.5 lb-ft specified and a dry fit has caused galling for all too many people. Those who use anti seize and 58lb-ft have yet to report a single problem. As long as the nut takes effort to move by hand before snugging up when replacing it, there is no reason to need a new one.

Replacing all the rubber hoses every 4 years is another crazy interval.
 

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GW, if my axle galled, I'd replace it and be done. Ive adjusted mine about 6 times in 4700 miles, not a hint of galling.
If you look in most any service manual, self-locking nuts in any location are deemed One Time Use Only.
The owners manual maintenance shows changing brake and clutch hoses at 4 year intervals. But...there is an asterisk shown just before this recommendation, with no explanation of what the asterisk signifies. It does show inspections at 3500 mile/12 month intervals, and if cracks in the hoses are found, replace them. Which is what I'd do if cracks were found anyway.
Must be some more a$$-covering prose from Suzuki's legal department.
Use common sense, your better judgement, and maintain your motorcycle as you see fit.
 

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GW, if my axle galled, I'd replace it and be done. Ive adjusted mine about 6 times in 4700 miles, not a hint of galling.
If you look in most any service manual, self-locking nuts in any location are deemed One Time Use Only.
The owners manual maintenance shows changing brake and clutch hoses at 4 year intervals. But...there is an asterisk shown just before this recommendation, with no explanation of what the asterisk signifies. It does show inspections at 3500 mile/12 month intervals, and if cracks in the hoses are found, replace them. Which is what I'd do if cracks were found anyway.
Must be some more a$$-covering prose from Suzuki's legal department.
Use common sense, your better judgement, and maintain your motorcycle as you see fit.
Yup it is "your call" but there is a good reason why so many of us now torque lower. As for the fuji lock nuts, it's all I use and have NEVER had one so much as budge on me. Seriously man, there is always bad info in service manuals which "real world experience" says to do otherwise, and much required and or recommended maintenance is totally overkill......
 

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Either will wear the locking part with continued use.
 

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Brian, it isnt so much as "bad info", rather it's the company's legal department trying to protect themselves. Yes, Ive dealt with self-locking nuts turning wrenches professionally for 40 years+, never had one back off. But...doing a job under warranty, the nuts were always replaced or the company(Mazda/Subaru plus many others in my case) would deny warranty reimbursement. And they wanted the old nuts back as proof of replacement.
Real world experience trumps that. Most of us know what works, and more importantly what doesnt. Many do not, and rely on what the manufacturer recommends. You can't go wrong with that.
The manufacturer's recommendations are just that--recommendations. They are not a mandate, and your stagecoach wont turn into a pumpkin if you dont follow them.
But...Ive seen-and been involved with- many cases though the years where the factory would not offer $$ assistance if recommendations werent followed to the letter.
Yep..some of that could be considered overkill. But given a choice, I'd rather"overkill"in my maintenance regimen while in control in my garage than neglect something and have 'an event" out on the road. Really, you dont need to do a single thing to a vehicle until it breaks down.
Work on 2-5 motorcycles most weeks and you get to see both ends of the spectrum.
 
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