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Discussion Starter #1
2009 Vstrom 650, the nut on the rear axle is NOT a castle nut. But it's really tight, so I was hesitant to try to use a longer rachet or wrench.

Is it just likely overtightened and should be fine to use extra force to loosen so I can adjust the chain?

22k miles, chain is basically at the edge or just past tolerance levels.

Alexi
 

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Factory spec is 72 ft lbs for the rear axle nut. Use a breaker bar to loosen. If galling has occurred, the usual symptom is that the axle nut starts to loosen, then tightens up like a gnat's a** in a windstorm!

The legendary Greywolf advised applying anti-seize to axle threads and torquing to 58 ft lbs to allow for lubricity.

How loose is the chain? If it is only a bit loose, may be better to leave it alone. The Stroms seem to favor a slightly looser chain and reward the rider with longer chain life.
 

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2009 Vstrom 650, the nut on the rear axle is NOT a castle nut. But it's really tight, so I was hesitant to try to use a longer rachet or wrench.

Is it just likely overtightened and should be fine to use extra force to loosen so I can adjust the chain?
Alexi
So your main question is _ Do you Dare crank on it with a 10 foot pipe ....

I'd say
A: do it under conditions that if you F-it up you aren't stranded.
B: If there is no reason not to, get the new chain & sprockets so as to to do it once.
 

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Is it a stainless steel nut. A regular steel nut shouldn't gall but might be rusted in there. The newer nuts are not castle nuts with a cotter pin. They have metal bands that lock the nut in place. If it is badly galled you will have a damaged axle and /or nut. You could try working in penetrating fluid with a gentle application of heat. When the treads start to move having some lube in there might limit the amount of damage. Be prepared to order new and gasp at the price.
 

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Put a request for an axle bolt in at the wanted section of the forum. Don't know how it happens. My 04 with 100K still goes on and off like new. It's a castellated nut that uses a cotter pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tips. This will be next weekends little project. It's a little looser than spec (BARELY). Chain looks good, and sprockets look good. But I'll try it out just in case. And I'll be ready to order some stuff off of ebay or something in case the axle needs to be replaced. I'll keep the fingers crossed.

Alexi
 

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Thanks for the tips. This will be next weekends little project. It's a little looser than spec (BARELY). Chain looks good, and sprockets look good. But I'll try it out just in case. And I'll be ready to order some stuff off of ebay or something in case the axle needs to be replaced. I'll keep the fingers crossed.

Alexi
When you say BARELY out of spec, are you talking about 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" of slack? If so, I would run it until you are ready for new chain and sprockets. If chain has any frozen links or rear sprocket is worn, would be time to change anyways.

The chance of galling is increased with faster RPM tightening of the fastener...so if your shop loves the sound of a compressed air impact wrench spinning at high speeds, be ready for the possibility!

BTW, I am in W'burg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When you say BARELY out of spec, are you talking about 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" of slack? If so, I would run it until you are ready for new chain and sprockets. If chain has any frozen links or rear sprocket is worn, would be time to change anyways.

The chance of galling is increased with faster RPM tightening of the fastener...so if your shop loves the sound of a compressed air impact wrench spinning at high speeds, be ready for the possibility!

BTW, I am in W'burg

Yeah. BARELY out of spec. Sprocket looks good and no frozen links.

And let me know if you every want to meet up and ride. I'm making an effort to do a lot more riding again, to include ik planning my first all motorcycle vacation this summer (two weeks going from VA to Maine and back again)

Alexi
 

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Just loosen the nut to see what you have. If it comes of as it should, apply anti seize, adjust the chain a little (slack measured on the sidestand, not the centerstand, and re-tighten.

If the nut just does not want to come off even after the initial resistance is overcome, it's probably toast. However the non castellated nuts have a lesser tendency to gall because they have a much larger thread contact area, I bet you will be just fine.
 

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The difference between sitting on the sidestand and on the centre stand is only a few mm. Maybe 3/16" at a guess. Adjust it to the looser end of the range and you'll be fine.
 

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You need to loosen the nut sooner or later. Just do it and see what happens.
But as someone said, do it at home so you are not stuck somewhere.
 

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I just dealt with this on my 2018 DL650 XA. Third time adjusting the chain and the axle nut seized. Galled threads. I always used a torque wrench (which I have checked the calibration of) to tighten to 72 ft-lbs dry.

Turns out the factory maintenance manual says the axle nut is a one-time-use item. The owners manual makes no such mention.

I called Suzuki customer support and their response was: "We only recommend using the factory maintenance manual or taking your bike to the dealer for service". They said they would investigate why the owners manual makes no mention of the one-time-use axle nut requirement. Thanks. $100 lesson: Don't believe everything you read.

It seems extreme replacing a $15 nut every time I adjust the chain. I'm going to try the anti-seize/58ft-lb forum suggestion and see how that goes.

I'm now making my through the entire set of StromTrooper maintenance postings to see if there are any other wee-land-mines I should know about...
 

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I just dealt with this on my 2018 DL650 XA. Third time adjusting the chain and the axle nut seized. Galled threads. I always used a torque wrench (which I have checked the calibration of) to tighten to 72 ft-lbs dry.

Turns out the factory maintenance manual says the axle nut is a one-time-use item. The owners manual makes no such mention.

I called Suzuki customer support and their response was: "We only recommend using the factory maintenance manual or taking your bike to the dealer for service". They said they would investigate why the owners manual makes no mention of the one-time-use axle nut requirement. Thanks. $100 lesson: Don't believe everything you read.

It seems extreme replacing a $15 nut every time I adjust the chain. I'm going to try the anti-seize/58ft-lb forum suggestion and see how that goes.

I'm now making my through the entire set of StromTrooper maintenance postings to see if there are any other wee-land-mines I should know about...
Replacing everytime sounds crazy! Hope it isn't that. I'll watch for your update.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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"It seems extreme replacing a $15 nut every time I adjust the chain."
In the BMW world, where I dwelt for decades, lots of the bolts are one time fasteners in the corporate mind.
Science of bolt stretch and metallurgy. Fly wheel bolts and the bolt and nut of the driveshaft fittings, etc. Like a good doubter and cheap ass I kept reusing the same bolts and nuts for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I know that stainless on stainless can cause a gall and bugger threads. I've not had a problem with my axle bolt. Sometimes I tighten with a torque wrench, sometimes not. With the castellated nut and the wire clip to keep it in place I figure tight enough is good and don't sweat the small stuff.

Wondering about the stainless castellated nut, I went to the garage and grabbed a small magnet. The wire clip is stainless but the C nut seems to have an affinity for the magnet so I guess it's just shiny steel and not stainless which may be why I've never had a galling experience. Well, at least not with the axle bolt.
 

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Of the five classes of crystalline structures that comprise stainless steels only one is nonmagnetic. The legend of stainless steel always being non magnetic is because Martensitic stainless steels are, the one structure which makes up the 300 alloys, (304 and 316).

Alloys 17-4 and 18-8 which many fasteners are made from has a different crystalline structure and is magnetic.

Work hardening can also change the structure enough of the metal to cause some magnetism.
 

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I highly recommend using a smear of grease or anti seize compound on the axle including the thread. That makes removal so much easier and avoids galling issues. My 2010 DL650 still uses the original axles and nut.
When using a lubricant on the thread wisdom dictates a 10% or so increase on the torque applied to the nut. I do not follow that rule and have never had an axle nut come loose - nor have I ever galled a thread.

This issue has plagued many troopers and it is commonly accepted that a smear of lube and 58ft/lbs is still secure and avoids any galling issues.
 

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Just so that newbies get it right, adding a lubricant or anti seize to threads will require the final torque applied to be less than if threads were dry, to achieve the same degree of "tightness", and to avoid damaging the threads.
 

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I use Anti-Seize in all applications where dis-similar metals are joined via threads. :thumbup:
 
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