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Anyone know what the diameter and thread pitch are for the DL650 oil drain plug? I'm thinking of ordering and installing a Fumoto valve, but it isn't time to change the oil on my bike just yet...
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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M12 x 1.25 for the 650.
 

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Boy, that Fumoto valve looks to be an excellent idea! I wonder if I can actually go pick one up in Bellevue.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The Vee is M14x1.25 but the Wee is M12x1.25

I remember that well because I got it wrong once. It only got half corrected at Some important bolt sizes? so I need to follow up with that.
 

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Looks like their dealer for Washington State is in Gig Harbor:

Wesrep Sales Co
2812 144th St.
Gig Harbor, WA 98332
253-851-9099
[email protected]
www.oilchangevalve.com
I heard back from them:

Dear Sir,

We have now the office in Redmond.
You certainly could come to pick up the valve.

Our address is 2729 152nd Ave. NE, Redmond, WA 98052
Office hour: Mon thru Fri, 1:30PM - 5:30PM

Please be sure to call us before you come.
Toll Free Number: 1-866-822-5689

Thank you,

YM International Co.
Online Dealer of Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve.
QuickOilDrainValve.com

So is the correct valve this one at 12 mm -1.25

F-103 Regular Valve

or is it this one at 14 mm -1.25:

F-111 Regular Valve
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Again, it's a 12mm x 1.25
 

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Hmmm... I'm curious, is anyone using on the board using one of these? It seems like a great idea, but the potential cost of a failure makes be a bit nervous. I'm wondering how one of these would hold up to 1000 miles round trip of extreme washboard conditions on the Dalton?

Anyone have any experience or thoughts?
 

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I use one on my 4Runner. I always fiddle with it when changing the oil to make sure it is staying closed and it's been flawless. On the 4Runner it is protected by skid plates. It sticks down a little bit so I'd want to make sure it was somewhat protected on the wee. It makes oil changes take just a few minutes. Having the truck lifted helps too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I heard back from them:

Dear Sir,

We have now the office in Redmond.
You certainly could come to pick up the valve.

Our address is 2729 152nd Ave. NE, Redmond, WA 98052
Office hour: Mon thru Fri, 1:30PM - 5:30PM

Please be sure to call us before you come.
Toll Free Number: 1-866-822-5689

Thank you,

YM International Co.
Online Dealer of Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve.
QuickOilDrainValve.com

So is the correct valve this one at 12 mm -1.25

F-103 Regular Valve

or is it this one at 14 mm -1.25:

F-111 Regular Valve
:thumbup:

Thanks for the info, MillCreel. I'm seriously due for an oil change on my Wee, so I think I'll bite the bullet and get one of the F-103 valves. I'll see if I can get dimensions from them ahead of time -- I have plenty of room between the case and the skid plate, so I think this should fit no problem, but better to be sure.
 

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Marcin, do be sure to come back and post about your experiences. I am due for an oil change this summer, and unless it does not work for you, will likely buy the F-103 and install it. I have a Hyde skid plate, and there should be oodles of clearance.
 

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I can now report that the Fumoto valve DOES NOT FIT on the 2012 Wee, and presumably does not fit on other Wees.

It screwed in just fine up to the point where the right-angled portion of the valve contacted the protective fin right ahead of the oil drain plug. There was probably another 1/8 inch or so of thread that needed to screw into the drain plug hole.

So you will presumably need the long or short adapter to make it fit the Wee.
 

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I've been thinking about putting a Fumoto on my wife's Rover. It is a real mess and both skid plates have to come off every time. I still have to clean up the driveway from today's change.

The Vee was another story. I've changed the oil however many times in the nearly 30k miles since I bought it. I've been really careful with the drain plug, but this time it stripped out anyway. When I pulled it and went to O'Reilly to check on getting an oversized plug, we noticed that the plug was a 14x1.5 single oversize :confused:, so it looks like the previous owner had stripped it out already :headbang: They couldn't find a part number for a double oversize plug, and I didn't want to go with a triple, but eventually I found one and they ordered it for me.

Changing out the plug was a bit of a pain. Since a single oversize was used, the double oversize was more than a tight fit. I couldn't get the threads to bite. I don't have any experience rethreading, so I went at it with a hammer, figuratively. I put a floor jack under the wrench and put a little bit of pressure on the bolt it as I turned into the block. It caught and started to cut deeper threads in the aluminum, but it took some muscle to make it happen. Once it was done, it was nice and tight like new.
 

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Great, just great. It looks like the new DO plug isn't making a good seal and is leaking oil. Not much, but enough to bother me. I put the minimum amount of torque on it, so hopefully just a little more will seal the drain and stop the leak. Fingers crossed...
 

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Oil Drain Valves...

I have also considered an oil drain valve, but the EZ Oil Drain Valve, and others like it, will not not fit unless you are willing to grind away the protective "fin" in front of the drain plug or purchase the extended adaptor. I have NOT tried the adaptor and cannot say that it works. The EZ site does not list an adaptor for the M14-1.25 size (EZ-111). The M12-1.25 (EZ-103) does have an associated adaptor.

An alternative to the EZ brand valve is a Stahlbus valve, which works in a different fashion and takes up almost no more space than the factory drain plug. Take a look at www.stahlbus-us.com before making a purchase. The Stahlbus is twice the cost of the EZ at $55. And as mentioned earlier, M14-1.25 for the 1000, M12-1.25 for the 650.
 

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Another, cheaper way to get the main benefit of putting less stress on those oh-so-delicate aluminum threads might be with a "piggyback" drain plug. Screw it in, leave it in place, and do all your future oil changes using the smaller drain plug in the middle. Since these threads are steel/steel, it should last pretty much forever.



Any added time spent waiting for oil to drain or unscrewing a drain plug is pretty inconsequential; I've never understood the point of oil drain valves.
 

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Any added time spent waiting for oil to drain or unscrewing a drain plug is pretty inconsequential; I've never understood the point of oil drain valves.
Its a farkle.

If a farkle is available, someone will buy it.

Apparently pointless farkles are produced and marketed by aftermarket suspension manufacturers (under different brand names) because when someone has added enough weight in farkles, they're going to have to upgrade the suspension. :yesnod:
 
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