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DL650 Handling Characteristics

7241 Views 23 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Travial
Hey guys, I picked up a 2007 DL650 a while back, $1800, 68k miles, runs great, just had to fix the front and rear brakes (front master cylinder had debris clogging a tiny orifice that would progressively lock up the front wheel, rear master cylinder needed replacing). Definitely a fun bike, using for mostly road riding and occasional gravel, enjoying the power after years of owning 250 dualsports.

I'm curious if my experience with the handling on the bike is typical for this model, it seems when going through faster corners (30-60mph) the bike wants to always correct upright after I tip in, and holding the lean angle requires a bit of constant pressure pushing the outside grip/pulling the inside grip to keep the line. Corner technique is typical, slow down before and lightly accelerate through. Leaning off the bike helps a little, but still requires some constant pressure. I'm 145lbs btw.

The bike came with the rear lowered initially, but I raised it back to stock which helped some. I guess next I'm going to raise the fork tubes to drop the front to see if that helps get the steering more neutral feeling.

It's not a big issue, and if that is just how these bikes handle I'll get used to it, but just wanted to get some feedback from other DL650 owners. Thanks!
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What kind of tires are on it? Are they a matching set front/rear? Sounds similar to how my old Tuono handled until I get a good set of tires on it.
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How is your rear shock??
What you describe is not a characteristic of the bike, it's likely related to tires and/or suspension setup. Rather than raising the fork tubes right away I would first ensure the suspension is set up properly for your weight including riding gear and luggage if any. Are tires newish or worn and squared off? Play around with tire pressure, a difference of even a few psi can change handling enough that you will notice it.
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As mentioned, that's NOT normal handling that the OP described. The 650 handles easily, light steering, and holds a line well. In addition to tires and the suspension being set correctly, there could be the possibility of steering head bearings. I recently noticed my handling feeling heavy and sluggish. Check the steering by turning the bars lock to lock and noticed a detent with the bars straight. Time for a taper bearing conversion.

On my (fairly new to me) BMW I had the same handling issue as the OP, just figured that's how these things handle. Then noticed in the manual that the rear preload has to be set correctly or the "handling will be compromised". Sure enough got the rear sag right and it's a completely different bike.
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What you describe has not been my experience, but your frame of reference may be different. A shallower rake will make the steering "heavier". The extreme example is a sport bike vs a cruiser.

Suspension setup affects your rake, which is why others above suggest that you fix that first. Unless modified, the V-Strom is much too soft in the rear for most riders, which will result in too much sag, which increases your rake, which makes your steering a bit heavier. Lowering the rear, even more so.

Tire pressure and wear condition are factors too. Ridden extensively on slab, they will tend square off, making them a little less responsive in turns.
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If sag has been checked and is correct, I will recommend a 7-10mm fork raise in the clamps. The feeling of the bike not wanting to lean should be solved with these 2 things.
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I needed to raise the forks on my 09 to get happy with the way it turned.

I then lifter the rear 1" too.

Some tyres will turn in easier than others.
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Thanks for all the replies guys, glad to know it's not "normal" behavior, and, I was able to get everything resolved tonight!

I did set rear sag when I de-lowered the rear. Tires are Michelin something-or-another street tires, and the rear is a little bit squared off, front looks good, both have adequate tread. I checked the tires and they were 20psi front, 22psi rear, so pretty low definitely a contributing factor, so I just aired them up to 28 & 30 respecitvely, however I recall this same handling characteristic from a few months ago when they were freshly aired up.

I just raised the fork tubes about 13mm and took it for a test run, and problem is basically solved, in fact I now the opposite occured where I had to very slightly push the inside grip/pull the outside during turns, but just the slightest amount though. I then lowered the tubes down to 10mm and now everything is great, very neutral feel throughout the turn, and corners feel much more confident now that I'm not having to constantly apply corrective pressure throughout the turn.

Thanks for the input everyone, problem solved, now just have to deal with the helmet buffeting/wind noise issue with the stock screen and I'll be golden. Tried all the settings for the stock and nothing worked (up, down, lowered bracket, etc.) I know it's a well-covered topic and I've already read a lot of posts on it here, and I have an adjustable clip-on extender coming in the mail tomorrow. If that fails, I think I'll try a Madstad or Moose +4.
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I just aired them up to 28 & 30 respecitvely, however I recall this same handling characteristic from a few months ago when they were freshly aired up.
Unless you're riding dirt, that is still very low. The owner's manual and build plate say 36 rear, 33 front; higher in the rear with 2-up. Some people go higher for various reasons, but I would never go lower except in soft stuff.

Those pressures would definitely explain your handling issues.
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Thanks for the input everyone, problem solved, now just have to deal with the helmet buffeting/wind noise issue with the stock screen and I'll be golden. Tried all the settings for the stock and nothing worked (up, down, lowered bracket, etc.) I know it's a well-covered topic and I've already read a lot of posts on it here, and I have an adjustable clip-on extender coming in the mail tomorrow. If that fails, I think I'll try a Madstad or Moose +4.
Not to change the subject, but I've been using the Madstad & Moose +4 for a long time and am very happy with it. FWIW.
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Be mindful of the weight in your trunk. It amplifies and multiplies when that is thrown into a corner at speed. I use soft sided saddle bags. Keeps the weight much lower. Good luck. Very fun bikes.
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Be mindful of the weight in your trunk.
Hey, no body-shaming.
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I’m glad I read this post. My ‘14 Wee, compared to previous bike, seems a bit laborious in the turns as well. I’ll hafta fiddle with the suspension a bit.
I too had serious buffeting issues when I got my bike. I also installed the clip on extenders. It did fix the buffeting problem but was perfectly in my line of sight (I’m a bit short though). I installed a Givi Air Flow and the world became a better place to live.
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Hey Guys, just wanted to add an update to my initial post. Lowering the front definitely helped, and looking at my tires it seems I may be able to get even better feel by changing my rear tire back to the stock tire size. When I bought the bike it came with Michelin Pilot Road 4 tires, 110/80R19 front and 160/60r17 rear, and based on other people's experiences on stromtrooper with wider, lower aspect ratio tires it seems to negatively affect handling in corners. To quote Dslag:

Basically, there is lots of ancedotal evidence from folks, on lots of different sites, who put wider than stock tires on the back. Most of them experienced negative handling characteristics. The general concensus was the bike was slightly harder to turn in which would quickly develop into a 'falling over' feeling. They claimed the harder to turn in felt like a tire that was worn flat in the middle from too much straight slab. The falling part... well, lets just say you have to experience it.:yikes: Most claimed that the general handling characteristics were worse than stock.
The other comment was that production engineers go to great lengths to match tire sizes with other bike geometry like rake, trail, swing arm angle, etc. to come up with good (and safe) handling characteristics. When you put a wider tire on, the entire geometry is messed up and handling in the corners suffers. And isn't that why we ride bikes? For the twisties?
I've put about 1500mi on the bike in the last month, mostly on TN, NC, GA twisties, and have just about worn out the rear, so a stock size tire is going on soon, and just noticed that the date on the front tire is 2012 (rear is 2015 date), so that'll be changed as well. The bike does feel a bit vague when cornering still, so I'm looking forward to how the bike handles after the new tires go on. Probably going with a 90/10 or 80/20, I don't want to compromise road grip because I do love some twisties, but my other bike is a WR250R that I ride trails with often, and it'd be nice to start taking the Wee on some gravel and fire roads as well. Looking at the Shinko 705's, Metzeler Tourance, or Scorpion Trail II's.

One last thing to note, I have put on Pro Taper ATV high bars on it, very comfy riding position, but I read somewhere that may change the body weight distribution when cornering, hopefully not much though, because I won't be changing back to anything else, the bars are superb.

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I doubt the change in h/bars will have an affect on handling. You shouldn't have weight on the bars when cornering, braking, or getting aggressive. Use hips & knees.
I agree, stock size tires should work best.
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It sounds like your rear wheel might be slightly misaligned. The way you described it, it was exactly what I experienced until I dialed in the rear wheel better. After I got that straightened out, I raised the fork tubes 10mm but I think I'm going to try 7mm as it feels almost too eager to keep turning now.
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It sounds like your rear wheel might be slightly misaligned. The way you described it, it was exactly what I experienced until I dialed in the rear wheel better. After I got that straightened out, I raised the fork tubes 10mm but I think I'm going to try 7mm as it feels almost too eager to keep turning now.
That's interesting; I would expect that to make the turn-in more eager in one direction and recalcitrant in the other - yes?
That's interesting; I would expect that to make the turn-in more eager in one direction and recalcitrant in the other - yes?
The easiest way to tell is to find a flat straight road and take your hands off the bars and see if the bike wants to turn or stay upright. This assumes your tires are still reasonably symmetrical. It's difficult to describe, but basically it makes the bike feel 'weird' (I know that's vague).

Bind in the fork tubes or misalignment won't necessarily cause the bike to turn unwarranted, but it will make the front feel unsettled, almost as if the front is fighting the bike turning. To me, it made it feel like the front tire wanted to push/skid.
The easiest way to tell is to find a flat straight road and take your hands off the bars and see if the bike wants to turn or stay upright. This assumes your tires are still reasonably symmetrical. It's difficult to describe, but basically it makes the bike feel 'weird' (I know that's vague).
That's assuming you're symmetrically loaded. When mine does that, it's usually cuz I should have put the big water bottle in the other pannier ...
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