[nodiaque]

Hello,

I'm currently preping my bike for winter storage (quebec/canada). It's my first one and it only have about 650km on it. I've been told it's a good idea to change the oil and oil filter before storing. I'm all ok with that, but I never did that on a car, even less on a bike. I would like to know what tool are required and what I must buy to do this. After, I'll google some video's unless you have good one on how to do it. I'm open to all recommendation, let it be parts brand, model or anything else.

I have a Suzuki V-Stromg 650 SE 2017 (not the XT, it's like the DL650A but it came with both side trunk). I don't have a center stand and it's 1.5" lowered in front and back.

Thank you

 

[Houstrom46*]

Asking for a recommended brand of fluids or filters will likely get you a lot of differing opinions, all of which will probably be fine. There’s a thread on here called the only oil thread, or something along those lines. I suggest spending some time and read through the posts ( there are many pages of them) and form your own opinion. Lots of good information there, and as long as the oil meets the specs spelled out in your owners manual you should be fine. There’s also lots of discussions about filters that will help. Changing oil is one of the simplest things on the bike and is easily done by the most novice folks. Don’t be intimidated, there are videos out there that will help. Tools are minimal, and the job can be done in under 10 minutes. Best of luck

 

[Big B]

I think some just worry much over nothing, leave the oil be and just fill the tank with gas and fuel stabilizer. Battery tender is a good idea, but not necessary to keep hooked up the entire Winter.

 

[Brockie]

It is a very simple job, and much more convenient to do it yourself rather than waiting around while you pay somebody to do it for you.

2.75 L of a good 10W-40 MOTORCYCLE specific oil (as autos do not have a wet clutch), a matching oil filter, an oil filter removal wrench, a 17mm wrench or socket, and an oil drain pan.
The book also says to change the oil drain plug crush washer but I do not usually do that and I have never had an oil leak there, nor ever lost a drain plug. Buy a new 17mm crush washer if you like.

Here is a good video.

There are many more. Just google Suzuki V-Strom oil change. All of the various years are essentially identical so far as this job goes.

Here is a good text/photo description. Oil Change Clinic: Suzuki V-Strom (DL650) | RIDERS RECYCLE.com Blog

Myself, I would prefer to wait winter out and do the oil change at the beginning of the new riding season.

 

[ddphillips]

Re crush washer, I don't replace this either, but I do use some silastic on the washer surface to help seal without need to over tighten the sump plug, have done the same on all my bikes and cars, no leaks, no stripped sump plugs, when you undo the sump plug the silastic just peels away.

 

[nodiaque]

Tha k you everyone for all the Information, I'll crunch everything to get a head on all of these.

 

[Houstrom46*]

The book also says to change the oil drain plug crush washer but I do not usually do that and I have never had an oil leak there, nor ever lost a drain plug. Buy a new 17mm crush washer if you like.

In 30+ years of doing my own oil changes, I've never replaced crush washers on any bike or car I've owned. Hi milers were 240K on an Accord I sold a few years back, 180k on the wife's current Camry, and a Silverado & Sierra each with just under 120k miles when I sold them (although I don't think 120k is considered high miles anymore). I owned each since new, and none ever had any leaks from the drain plug. Any thoughts on whether Walmart or any of these fast lube chains bother with the crush washer?

 

[spike55_bmw]

I agree that washers can be reused, but there's a limit

 

[Brockie]

The torque spec for the oil drain plug is 15ft/lbs, not 150ft/lbs. >

 

[Fox]

The torque spec for the oil drain plug is 15ft/lbs, not 150ft/lbs. >

Haha you've got that right.

And if there's a limit for v-strom 650 crush washer reuse, I haven't found it yet. Original crush washer here, 32 oil changes, no visible wear on the threads and no leaks (from the drain plug anyway :wink2.

 

[dravnx]

100,000 miles on my '12 DL650. 20 oil changes, original crush washer.

 

[Stalky Tracker]

I usually start with an oil and filter change (unless recently done), check tire pressures, add Marine Sta-Bil, top off the gas tank, take a brief ride to run the mixture through the system, swap positions with the snow blower in the garage, put on center stand, slide vinyl/rubber floor mat under front tire, plug in Battery Tender to bike and wall outlet, set out several boxes of d-CON poison, and throw the mc cover over it. And hope spring comes early.

 

[spike55_bmw]

Do any of the engine oil drain plug washer "mega" re-users anneal their washers before re-using? I have don't it with good results (no drips) but softer aluminum does "pancake" easier even at 15 lb/ft of torque.

 

[Fox]

Do any of the engine oil drain plug washer "mega" re-users anneal their washers before re-using? I have don't it with good results (no drips) but softer aluminum does "pancake" easier even at 15 lb/ft of torque.

Sometimes I wipe the crud off of it before I reinstall. Other than that, the washer is maybe a few microns thick at best - more symbolic than anything.

 

[spike55_bmw]

OK,
I'm dealing with tuff guys.
I'm out.

 

[Fox]

OK,
I'm dealing with tuff guys.
I'm out.

Hahaha, on the other hand, even if crush washers aren't necessary, they're a good value if they get you peace of mind.

Tuff, more like lazy