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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 2011 DL 650a ABS which is a great bike until now. It has started to run on only the front cylinder. Thought it maybe water in fuel but cleaned tank and strainer and also the injectors. No effect. Swapped injectors between cylinders and still only front cylinder runs. Checked for close circuit for power supply and pulse wire to ECU and seems ok. No code come up when put in dealer mode and only get C-00 . Tested injector resistance and both OK. Have been using the workshop manual. Tested so many of the FI system sensors ect and got no where. Coils were removed and tested by a professional and are perfect. New spark plugs only put in 500 km back.
Decided to reverse the injector wiring from rear to front, alas now the rear cylinders firing and not the front. Clearly it seems that the problem is in the wires supplying the rear injector or buggar it the ECU. I am now going to do a bypass of the wires. The Y/r to the fuel pump relay and the Gr to the ECU. I am hoping it is the solution and is yet another case of corrosion at the Y/r splice in the loom. I have stripped back most of the tapping and yet to reach that location yet. Insanely difficult job to do and expect it to be a nightmare to re tape . Should it prove not to be the wiring and it is the EMU , is this a common problem and used ECU may be the first thing sorted and it seems that the parts numbers on them seem to be quite different. I hope that they are more a date of manufacturing issue rather that their actual design. Ie. can a 2004 model fit a 2011?
Love this forum and hope somebody has some helpful ideas. 44 years riding motorcycles and repairing my own now somewhat stumped.
 

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Corrosion in the splices did take out the older DL's, I'd put that high on the list of things to check.

Probably not ECU though pulling the connector and checking for corrosion there might be worth doing. (They are well sealed).
 

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Is your ride a Glee or a Wee? The Wee was produced from K4 - L1, but the Glee could have been produced the later part of L1, so not sure which model you have. If I recall correctly, the K4-K6 Wee ECU / ECM is a 16 bit, while the ECU from the K7 Wee onwards is a 32 bit. Do take note, that there was an engine KW / power output restricted version of the ECU available in some countries. So when looking for a replacement, make sure that you source an ECU with the correct part number code. For a discussion on the restricted vs the full output ECU, have a look at Advise on changing out the ECU
WRT the running on a single cylinder, you may want to have a look at FRont Cylinder not running
 

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This section is for the 2012+ DL650's. There is another section for the 1st gen 650's.

You will probably have to go through the wiring loom and check it to the rear injector. Factory service manual is great for this repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Corrosion in the splices did take out the older DL's, I'd put that high on the list of things to check.

Probably not ECU though pulling the connector and checking for corrosion there might be worth doing. (They are well sealed).
Have pull the connectors and they look fine. Have done a wiring bypass for the rear injector . Hot wire Y/R directly to the fuel pump solenoid and still no firing in rear cylinder. I checked this with a laser temp gauge on the exit headers. Still also get the C-00 code when using the dealer terminal bridging. The code should be indicating C-33 at least [Rear fuel injector signal].
If this code is not being displayed then there must be a malfunction in the ECU as it cannot identify the fault via the voltage pulse.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is your ride a Glee or a Wee? The Wee was produced from K4 - L1, but the Glee could have been produced the later part of L1, so not sure which model you have. If I recall correctly, the K4-K6 Wee ECU / ECM is a 16 bit, while the ECU from the K7 Wee onwards is a 32 bit. Do take note, that there was an engine KW / power output restricted version of the ECU available in some countries. So when looking for a replacement, make sure that you source an ECU with the correct part number code. For a discussion on the restricted vs the full output ECU, have a look at Advise on changing out the ECU
WRT the running on a single cylinder, you may want to have a look at FRont Cylinder not running
Thanks for the info but have already read that one and more. I was not aware that the wee changed to a Glee. Mine is a K9 so it must be a Glee I guess . My ECU is the two terminal unit
27GA1
MGT114
F8T51171
1224
If anybody knows what this all represents it would be helpfully.
Pride in being able to fix your own bike is taking a beating at the moment ,though I love the vstrom it is a pain in the A to work on.
 

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I cannot find a wiring diagram for the injectors in the manuals I have, so do not have all the info

From Gert's links – greywolf's explanation of 12 volts, or battery volts at the injector and the ecu switching the ground connector. --

I would be checking everything to make sure I did not fry another ecu. Before I put one in, if I was going this way.

So I would want to know that the cable and connectors and the injectors are not shorting to ground, and the injector coil is not shorting.

From the pins in the plug that plugs into the ecu, with it unplugged, measure the resistance of the pins that carry the current to the injector. The glee manual states about 12 ohm resistance for the injector. And both these need to be open circuit with respect to ground.

I would make whatever I needed to put battery voltage onto one of these pins, then tap the other one on and off at the battery ground terminal. You should be able to hear the injector clicking. If you can measure current, measure this through the injector. 12 ohms should result in about 1 amp.

Without the diagram I cannot see where the 12volts for the injector is being sourced from. If it is the ecu, you can load test this with a 3- 6 watt 12 volt bulb at the 12 volt side of the injector. Ignition on, injector disconnected.

If this is all ok, then it is sounding very much like the ecu. Seems strange it would fail without something overloading it.

You didn't say what part of the fuel pump solenoid you sourced the voltage from. Would need to be the side that is connected to the battery via the fuse, not the coil side.

If it is the ecu, it will more than likely be the output transistor for that circuit. If it is accessible I should be able to change that for you. If it is potted in glue, you may be able to remove the glue picking away with a heat gun, or there maybe chemicals that can do it.

There is a guy in Kyogle with a bunch of strom stuff, he advertises on gumtree.

hope this helps
 

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Thanks for the info but have already read that one and more. I was not aware that the wee changed to a Glee. Mine is a K9 so it must be a Glee I guess . My ECU is the two terminal unit
A K9 is a wee, manufactured in 2009.
My VIN states manufactured in January 2010. To make sourcing parts easier you should check your VIN.

281503
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I cannot find a wiring diagram for the injectors in the manuals I have, so do not have all the info

From Gert's links – greywolf's explanation of 12 volts, or battery volts at the injector and the ecu switching the ground connector. --

I would be checking everything to make sure I did not fry another ecu. Before I put one in, if I was going this way.

So I would want to know that the cable and connectors and the injectors are not shorting to ground, and the injector coil is not shorting.

From the pins in the plug that plugs into the ecu, with it unplugged, measure the resistance of the pins that carry the current to the injector. The glee manual states about 12 ohm resistance for the injector. And both these need to be open circuit with respect to ground.

I would make whatever I needed to put battery voltage onto one of these pins, then tap the other one on and off at the battery ground terminal. You should be able to hear the injector clicking. If you can measure current, measure this through the injector. 12 ohms should result in about 1 amp.

Without the diagram I cannot see where the 12volts for the injector is being sourced from. If it is the ecu, you can load test this with a 3- 6 watt 12 volt bulb at the 12 volt side of the injector. Ignition on, injector disconnected.

If this is all ok, then it is sounding very much like the ecu. Seems strange it would fail without something overloading it.

You didn't say what part of the fuel pump solenoid you sourced the voltage from. Would need to be the side that is connected to the battery via the fuse, not the coil side.

If it is the ecu, it will more than likely be the output transistor for that circuit. If it is accessible I should be able to change that for you. If it is potted in glue, you may be able to remove the glue picking away with a heat gun, or there maybe chemicals that can do it.

There is a guy in Kyogle with a bunch of strom stuff, he advertises on gumtree.

hope this helps
Thanks for the input. I already have done the ohm test on both injectors and have 12.5 ( range per manual is 11 to 13) .As I have swapped injectors between cylinders only the front is firing, When I swap the injector wiring couplers the rear cylinder fires only. Clearly there is no problem with either injector but only in the wiring to rear cylinder or the ECU . Wiring has checked out ok prior to doing a by pass so can completely remove the wiring as the issue. The hot wire to the injectors Y/R are spliced in the loom and terminate at the Y/R terminal of the pump relay as the FI wiring system shows.
Both injectors work fine but only if connected to the front cylinder wiring coupler. Clearly ECU is working fine for that cylinder.
I have sourced another ECU $230 and will see if that is the solution. I take on board your concerns with why did this ECU fail? As l have checked the sensors in the FI system and no fault codes are displayed can only guess a resister has fried in the ECU. I am a mechanical engineer and we know a bearing can last for I minute or years and it comes down to the randomness of manufacturing . Some things compensate yet others compound. I do hope my CPU was made in the last hour of a 12 hour shift on a Friday and I lucked out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The wiring diagram in #38 of Electrical grounding issue - main fuse blowing may be similar to your K9 Wee.
Thanks Gert, that diagram of is the same as l am using and it is confirmed on the bike. Reading the posts on that Hunt for red October {blowing Fuses} was so inspiring. All I hope for is when we are forced to leave planet earth that in the crew there are some Stormtroopers as the buggers never seem to fail to find the problem no matter how impossible it is.Those guys deserve more than a beer, more an Octoberfest.
 

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You would probably need an oscilloscope to see if the rear injector is opening and see the voltage pulse.

ECU grounds the circuit, opening the injector.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You would probably need an oscilloscope to see if the rear injector is opening and see the voltage pulse.

ECU grounds the circuit, opening the injector.

Good luck!
Yes I agree but the injector is working fine when it is changed to the front cylinder and coupled to the front injector wires. All a live test would do is confirm the ECU is not pulsing the rear injector. Overnight I thought if it was not the ECU then could it be the in the earthing wires from the ECU. If each cylinder had its own pulse earth path that was not coupled inside then the earth wire B/W for the rear cylinder may have an open circuit. There are 3 earth wires leaving the ECU E1, E01, E02. logic would suggest the last two would be for each individual injector.
Still I tested all 3 and all gave a closed circuit. Opened up loom at their terminal point to check for corrosion and found them as clean as the day they were born. As the B/W earth circuit is a common for all and every thing else is fine my problem could have only been in the short section from the ECU to the loom splice in point. Sadly that is not it.
There is a saying ,"Life is about the Journey ,not the destination." If not for the current Covid 19 situation my vstrom could well have already finished its journey in a wreckers yard. Seems I have to await the arrival of a replacement ECU and start the dance again or maybe the ride again begins.
 

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Wondering if there was another Trooper in the neighbourhood with the same vintage of Wee as yours you could try your ECU in their bike?
 

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I hope that the new ECU fixes the issue for you but I wondered about the wiring as I did not fully understand your post #9 above.
Did you say that you have eliminated the wiring as a possibility by bypassing the Green/White wire from the ECU direct to the rear injector?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi, the front cylinder earth pulse wire is Grey/white and the rear cylinder it is Grey/Black. Both were eliminated by firstly having the same resistance reading as that of the normally operating front injector wiring from the ECU plugs (12.7 ohm). Also after that I put in a by pass to double test.
The ECU seems the only logical conclusion.
In 49 years of motorcycling this is a first for me . When I was 18 I got my first bike back from a motorcycle shop repair that was worst than it went in. Decided I would never use a so called professional again and decided to learn to maintain my own. Thus have had heaps of experience from maintenance to major engine rebuilds.
Still we all walk around with the chance that if you walk enough sooner or later a meteorite will strike you dead. Guess this is my meteorite strike. Ha .
 

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Found the wiring diagram that was not in the index, or in the incomplete wiring diagram in the FI section. Yay and annoying.

Anyhow,
Wiring has checked out ok prior to doing a by pass so can completely remove the wiring as the issue. The hot wire to the injectors Y/R are spliced in the loom and terminate at the Y/R terminal of the pump relay as the FI wiring system shows.
I would think the probability of wire damage is low, however taking a close look,
If there was a problem with the Y/R wire, that would simultaneously affect both injectors and the fuel pump.
If there was a short to ground on the Gr/W wire, this would not cause damage to the ECU
If the was a short Gr/W to a 12 volt supply, or Gr/W to the Y/R wire, this would damage the ecu. Unless there is some very fancy current limiting protection in the ecu. The current requirements of the injectors would make this difficult.

If it was me, I would be inspecting every inch of the Gr/W wire before fitting a new ecu. The problem with mechanical wear on cable insulation is it has a tendency to first manifest as an intermittent fault that can easily be missed with a multi meter.
Still we all walk around with the chance that if you walk enough sooner or later a meteorite will strike you dead
Well that's quite dramatic.
 

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Hi, the front cylinder earth pulse wire is Grey/white and the rear cylinder it is Grey/Black.
Well that is weird. The wiring color I quoted comes from my K9 service manual. However I also have a DL650 2012-16 wiring diagram and that shows the injector wires as Grey/white and Grey/black.
Your bike must be an L2 and not a K9.
One of these:

281558
 
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