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Discussion Starter #1
"Over 400 Strommers Served" Yes, its 2014 and we are still going strong....
After MasterMike sent me his drawings I came up with another approach to the spacer modification that achieves the same results slightly more economically ($35 + postage). Instead of maching whole new spacers I am running a spacer exchange program.

Here's how it works..

Pay $55 + postage via Paypal

Recieve a remachined stock right hand spacer (2mm removed) and a new additional 2 mm left spacer.

Install on your bike (instruction are here part way down the page)

Send me your stock right side spacer to be remachined and added to the exchange program pool.

Reieve a $20 refund for your core.

Total cost to you $35 + postage + $20 refundable deposit plus postage to send in your spacer. Postage via USPS within the US is $7, to Canada and Mexico is $9.00, and $11.00 international. Payment can be made using a credit card or Paypal at our website AdventureTech, LLC. - Home.

The additional left hand spacer is similar in appearance to a thin stainless steel washer, but of exact dimensions. It is made for this application and only this applicaiton.

The program is now fully operational. I generally have enough spacers on hand to meet demand at any one moment. There is currently no waiting. I have many sets reay to go in the mail.

Yes, this approach functions exactly the same as Master Mike's spacers, but retains the factory tolerances to the critical axle and bearing surfaces.

Please note that you must return your stock spacer after making the switch to the modified spacer in order to keep this program alive."
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are some pictures to help everybody understand what's involved.

The rear wheel just as it is slid out of the swingarm. The left side spacer can be seen sitting in the seal.


Here the left spacer has been removed by hand, no tools needed.


This piece is called the rear sprocket drum. It also comes out by hand, no tools needed. Inside the wheel you can see the black rubber cushions Peter talks about in a message below. This bike had 2,900 miles on it. It took a little one handed tug to remove the drum.



Inside the rear sprocket drum is the rear sprocket drum retainer. ??? This is what has often been refered to as the rigth spacer. Actually the right wheel spacer is the piece between the right side of the wheel and the brake support arm on the right hand side. The right wheel spacer is unaffected by this modification (yes, its the same as what Master Mike's did ;) ).



Here you see the rear sprocket drum retainer removed by hand, no tools needed. Note the orientation of the spacer (oops, I mean "rear sprocket drum retainer").

Please check out this link concerning at least some model years of DL1000. If you look at the center collar the retainer/spacer is being pulled out of...on the outside lower edge of this collar where it blends with flat plate...there is a slightly raised surface. On at least some DL1000s this surface may need to be turned flush on a lathe. A 10" lathe is plenty big enough to handle the sprocket drum with the sprocket still installed. If your local I can do this for you for $15.00 or say...a really good cheesburger, with fries, and diet coke on a ride sometime.



After replacing the sprocket drum retainer (spacer) with the modified -2mm version, reasemble the parts and add the new +2mm stainless steel spacer (new spacer that looks like a washer) to the outside of the left hand wheel spacer.



Here it is all put back together. Note the washer like spacer between the left wheel spacer and the swingarm. You may not be able to see it clearly in this picture, but the chain is now cenetered on the sprocket.



No, I didn't lay the bike down to get the shot ::) .

Depending on your mechanical skills this job takes between 30 and 45 minutes. You need to be able to support the bike with the rear wheel removed. So a centerstand or lift is needed.





This is the lip that some people will need to have machined. Thus far ~ 4% of the DL1000s owners that have made the spacer mod need to have this lip machined.




The hub can be held in a lathe by removing the sprocket hub's seal and using "inside jaws" on the lathe. It is not necessary to remove the bearing.

You may not need to remove the sprocket depending the size of your lathe.
 

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Just placed an order! Fingers crossed I don't have to have the lip machined!!

:)
 

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I installed this kit on my bike last night.
The 1st to 2nd rough shifting has totally gone away.
It now shifts smoothly from 1st to 2nd in either direction both after accelerating from a stop and when shifting up or down while rolling.
I could not be happier.
Installation is really quite simple. Best with a helper, but I did it by myself.

Makes a huge difference for me. My commute starts with a 20 minute ride through residential roads with a lot of stop signs and slow roads as well as passing a couple of sections with a slow/stopped cars. I just hated the rough shifting.
Other than the rough shifting it's a nice ride that keeps me off the bumper to bumper freeway and the toxic air that goes with it.

On top of that AdventureTech sent out the kite very quickly and with a return envelope for shipping back my original spacer so he can machine it for another customer.

I have bough a few items from AdventureTech and they all get my "stamp of approval"
 

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Machining needed for 2002 Vee?

I'm finally ready to take the plunge and install the Richland Rick spacer. Based on what I have read, even with my limited mechanical skills I can do the basic install, but I would not be able to handle using a lathe to remove the extra material from the rear sprocket drum, and I doubt my local shop has a lathe.

Can anyone advise whether the 2002 Vee requires this additional step?
 

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I'm delighted to report that my 2002 Vee did not need the extra work and that the install was much easier than I expected, given my very limited experience working on the bike. And the improvement in every aspect is undeniable!
 

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I have seen no indication that the new Vee2 needs the spacer fix. All DL1000 models prior to 2011 need it. I suggest waiting to see some indication of need on the latest Vees.
What about a 2012 DL1000?


uncaged
 
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