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Discussion Starter #1
I rode the 2003 DL1000 to work this morning as I do every day. Went to start it just now and lights came on briefly and then "click" and all power was lost. Ah fuse you might say...so did I...pulled the seat and checked the 15A fuse -looked fine. Changed it for the spare...nothing. Changed it for another 15A fuse...nothing...

So this is where I am...any other suggestions on what it could be or where to look next? I need to get home!!

There is a gas station on the corner 100 yds away that likely has auto fuses but the Strom fuses I have are smaller than regular auto fuses...so maybe not much help.

thanks for any suggestions
Andy
 

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I hate when that happens, Andy. Check the battery posts for clean and tight as a first step. From memory -- the main fuse is 30A, isn't it? You should also be able to get the fuses at a gas station. Lots of different types are common now.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply Tom. Fuse is def a 15A and its a small one compared to the usual size auto fuses I have (wish I had my camera!). Clock has now come back on but only intermittently....checked battery terminals and they look ok...multimeter is next....

Andy
 

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The main fuse is a 30A. It is not with the other fuses but under a clear cover that also houses the starter relay and a spare fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ah thank you! I did see the clear cover but couldnt get it off easily so left it. In any case very good to know and Ill need to practice removing it when I get home.

In any case a slight edit to my earlier post - battery terminals were not ok! Visually they looked ok until I removed them and then saw the massive amount of white power on the negative terminal - the bolt was stuck with it to the batter terminal :(. Cleaned it off and bike started right up.

Ok so found the issue now what to do about it? Sealed battery measured 12.7V off the bike. Time for a new battery? Bike has 33,000 miles, 18,000 by me since Oct 2010. Never replaced the battery. Bike sees all weathers every day (I have no car).

Will the 12V sealed batteries I use in my old Honda CB750s (1972, 1974) work just as well in the VStrom?

And finally is it "safe" to ride home post-rush hour traffic??

Sage advice please!
Thanks very much
Andy
 

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12.7V is right on the money. Just clean the terminals really good and coat with some grease and all will be fine.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The clear cover slides forward IIRC. The pop is typical of a poor contact that arcs and then totally loses contact due to the arc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys for the quick replies and great advice. The Strom has been a great bike for me and starts and goes anywhere. This was very unexpected today but a good reminder I should be paying more attention to my electrics!!

much appreciated
Andy
 

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Thanks guys for the quick replies and great advice. The Strom has been a great bike for me and starts and goes anywhere. This was very unexpected today but a good reminder I should be paying more attention to my electrics!!

much appreciated
Andy
If you clean the battery terminals once a year, that should be plenty. I scrape terminals and cable ends with a knife, screwdriver, or whatever is handy.

The first time I had the trouble you had today was about 40 years ago and it was about 4 degrees F outside. That was a cold hard lesson.

The white powder is lead sulfate and dielectric grease is usually enough to keep it at bay.
 

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If you clean the battery terminals once a year, that should be plenty. I scrape terminals and cable ends with a knife, screwdriver, or whatever is handy.

The first time I had the trouble you had today was about 40 years ago and it was about 4 degrees F outside. That was a cold hard lesson.

The white powder is lead sulfate and dielectric grease is usually enough to keep it at bay.
I asked a guy at a big auto parts chain store and he suggested vaseline. Said it was as good as dielectric. I don't know if this is true but I think I'll try it.
 

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I asked a guy at a big auto parts chain store and he suggested vaseline. Said it was as good as dielectric. I don't know if this is true but I think I'll try it.
It will work (I used it for years until I found out about dielectric grease) but you are better of getting and using real dielectric grease. It is meant for that purpose and works better than Vaseline.
 

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Dead Battery today

I got my new to me 2006 V 1000 last Thursday and road it to work (45 miles one way) both Thursday and Friday, went great. Day off today so went for a ride in the Sierra Foothills, try the Strom on some easy dirt roads and just have a nice day of riding. on the way home I start out in second gear and pop the clutch, try to re start and the starter justs spins. Luckily I am going downhill. I bump start her and get her home. The bike had just 1,276 miles on the clock, so it's been sitting a lot, and probably not on a battery tender. The dealer who I got it from must have charged the batter up and it was OK, but not now. Luckily I had another on at home and she starts fine with it.
 

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Old batteries get a coating of lead sulphate etc. on the plates

then you shake them riding for a while the crude falls to the bottom and shorts out the plates battery is dead
 

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It will work (I used it for years until I found out about dielectric grease) but you are better of getting and using real dielectric grease. It is meant for that purpose and works better than Vaseline.
Doug is right. The melting point of vasoline is so low, that it'll be gone in no time. Dielectric grease will stay put as long as need be.
 
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