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Discussion Starter #1
Did a search, maybe my idle is a tad to high and I'll turn it down some. Just had TBS done and it really smoothed things out at lower rpm. HOWEVER, about half way in to a 1200 mile trip, the engine now hesitates at about 2000 rpm for just a second before idling down to around 1200. Only at no load, doesnt affect anything performance wise. If your sitting still in nuetrel, rev it, the thing will hover at 2 g for just a second and then calm down, whats up wit dat?
 

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The idle is too high. Lower it to 1100 and it will probably eliminate that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Seems to have fixed it, it drops in RPm kinda slow but doesnt hang around at 2000 anymore. Maybe it always was slow to drop down to idle and I just never noticed.
Thanks for the info.
 

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That's a very common problem and that's nearly always the fix. The DL1000 seems to be quite picky on idle speed and when it's above 1100 that problem frequently occurs.
 

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...the engine now hesitates at about 2000 rpm for just a second before idling down to around 1200.
My beloved yellow '03 DL1000 having been totaled by a "blind" cage driver, I'm now on my second; a grey '06. Your description really catches my interest because it fits exactly this bike's behavior.

When I first test-drove it, I noticed the previous owner had the idle adjusted too high, at about 1500 RPM. Once the bike was warm, it would not idle down to below 2000 RPM at a stop light unless I actually applied a little "back-pressure" on the throttle grip (thereby activating the "pull closed" cable).

Backing the idle off a bit helped. It thereafter did exactly as you described, "hesitating" for a half second or so at 2000 RPM, before falling down to the 1200-or-so RPM I had it adjusted to.

I had also noticed there was excessive play in the trottle cables; something that drives me nuts on any bike.

The day I picked it up; I had about a 100 mile ride to get it home, but took a detour to visit a Cycle Gear store in Atlanta, taking me another 50 miles or so out of the way. By the time I got to the store (in full-on Atlanta traffic), I was so tired of the behavior, I decided to at least get rid of the excess cable slop before heading home. Somewhat surprisingly, this also eliminated the "hanging-at-2000" problem.

This bike did run rougher than my previous one, so following advice on this forum, I built a poor-man's manometer and did a trottle body sync for the first time ever. This corrected the rough running, but also caused the bike to idle a bit higher again, and the "hanging" problem returned. Adjusting the idle back down again corrected the problem.

This bike is now as smooth overall as the one it replaced. It's actually smoother; the yellow one had a severe case of clutch chudder between 3500-4000 RPM, which was eliminated by a RealShelby re-worked clutch basket. But it always had a secondary buzz (which I considered normal) around 6000 RPM. This bike did not have the chudder problem (yet), but I went ahead and installed a RealShelby basket to make sure it never does. This bike now really has no "vibration pattern"; that is, it's as uniform throughout the RPM range as any bike I've ever owned, having no significant "vibration zones" anywhere.

But the idle-down "hanging" behavor still leaves me wondering. Is it a sign that the "pull" throttle cable is slightly sticking, and is only counteracted when the free play is tight enough for the return spring to overcome it? Or worse, is it a sign of slightly tight valves?

At any rate, I'm going to question my local master mechanic "hero" about it when I take it in for a tire change.

James
 
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