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Hi, my 2005 DL1000 is blowing the 15A SIGNAL fuse occasionally. I rode it for about 15 minutes this morning until it blew. I do have accessories fitted but they are all wired through independent fuses straight off of the battery and through a relay. I have looked through all the wiring but cannot see anything trapped/rubbing/obvious. This started to happen not long after I replaced the engine cover housing the generator or and CKP sensor but I have looked at the wiring diagram and cannot see a connection with the blowing fuse. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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I don't have a diagram for your bike so I can't be much help there.


You need to know if the signals are the only thing that stops working when the fuse is removed, check all lights and accessories.


Are your signals original or aftermarket ?

Have you opened them up and had a good look inside, that would be a easy place to start.

If you can determine is the left or right side would be a good too, you could ride the bike and only use lets say the left signals and use hand signals for right turns and see if the fuse blows then reverse the test.

If you find it is on one side only you could disconnect just the front signal then the rear working out which signal is blowing the fuse.


If you find it is blowing on both left and right the switch would be worth a look.
 

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Info from a DL1000 K9 user manual shows that, the 15A SIGNAL fuse protects the turn signal lights, brake/taillight, license light, instrument panel lights and indicator lights. Not much help I know, but provides insight on what is being powered from this fuse.
 

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That is helpful but it means the search is now much bigger.

If the fuse pops straight away searching is quite easy but if it is a sometimes thing it can be much harder.

Over the years I have had a number of rear brake light switches fail (not stroms) with a dead short running through the spring to the brake pedal, could be a staring point ?
 

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Most likely it's a short in the wiring or a high resistance connector. A test lamp is your friend for troubleshooting. I have to warn you though, it can be a long tedious process.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk
 

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It's an older thread, sir, but it checks out.

I'm now plagued with pretty much this exact problem. It sucks.

I had the Signal fuse blow for seemingly no reason, a few months ago. I only noticed when leaving for work one morning. When I made the first stop at the end of my street, I found that the turn signal was not working. Nor was anything else dependent on that "Signals" 15A fuse - dash lights, dials, etc. Took the car to work, later found that Signals fuse had blown, replaced it, no problems for months.

Then this morning, Signals fuse blew twice.

As before, not sure when it blew. Noticed once I reached that stop sign, on my way to work. Turned around, parked in the garage, found my spare mini-fuses, replaced the problem one.

Exact same scene played out again. Gave up on riding to work today. Replaced the fuse yet again.

I tried making the fuse blow, in my garage once I had my gear stowed. Figured maybe I could hear something pop or crackle or see smoke. No dice. Nothing unusual at key to "on." Engine started & ran. Using turn signals didn't make the fuse pop. Need to do more testing/inspection.

I've made some changes to the electricals recently, but it was all with brand new Eastern Beaver gear. A short being introduced by any of that seems unlikely. Also, I've been riding for a week with the EB stuff installed & not had any problems.

I might try riding the other direction, when leaving my driveway. Possibly the fault only happens with left or right turns. That could give a clue where to look for the (presumed) short.


Why is this Signals circuit a common problem with older Vees? Must be some specific part of the wiring harness, or switch, that goes bad over time.
 

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Nope, it's not that, or at least it won't blow every time the brakes (either end) are applied. I wasn't able to find the wiring harness described in the thread, so no visual inspection yet. Could be a DL650 vs. DL1000 difference, or else it was just too dark in my garage and I'll see it after another look.

The fuse blew all by itself once in the garage, just from turning the key on. I replaced it and now can't get the fuse to blow no matter what.

This is the absolute worst kind of electrical problem: the intermittent short.

If I can't find the problem, I'll have to seriously consider selling the bike. I am sick to death of working on it instead of riding. It's been really bad this year, with one thing after another.
 

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Try disconnecting the front brake light switch for a few days just remember to use your rear brake so the stop light comes on when stopping.

Then reconnect the front and disconnect the rear switch.

If you are having a look in your garage try buying some 10a fuses then push and pull things looking for a result.

A fuse can be replaced with a globe or a buzzer and will light up or buzz when a earth is found but a earth can be found through any globe at any time so it may lead you down the wrong path.

We had a guy a while back was blowing that fuse and it was a bad earth increasing the load on the fuse.

Have a good look at the taillight and brake light while the indicators are flashing, if they too are flashing you have found your bad earth.
 

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See post #3 :)
 

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Yeah it's definitely "no."

Only reason I was thinking about it is that I did make a change to the headlight wiring in the last week. Installed an Eastern Beaver relay kit. It leaves the ground wire on one headlight socket disconnected, since it only uses the "normal" headlight power for signaling (actual headlight power comes straight from the battery). I was wondering if that could be my "floating ground."

But I don't think that's it. I didn't start blowing fuses right after installing the EB kit. Also, it should be possible to ride with the headlights disconnected from their original circuit without blowing any fuses. That's basically what the EB kit does. It leaves one H4 socket disconnected, and the other one is used only to sense voltage when the original circuit tries to turn the headlights on.

Further: the headlights don't have anything to do with the Signals circuit, with or without EB relay kit.
 

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That's tough, man. :-( Gotta be a short somewhere along the path(s) from that fuse to the endpoints.
 

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Hmm...looks like that fuse may protect different things (more?) than post 3?
 

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I have the electrical diagrams too, I'll take a look.

If heated grips are indeed powered off the Signals circuit, that could be the problem. The heated grips were installed by a previous owner, and done somewhat poorly. I don't need them in the summer, they don't work very well anyway, and I was planning to replace them with Oxford Heaterz.
 

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I'm not sure which model year it's from, but that diagram you posted isn't quite right for my 2007 DL1000. Some wire colors are different, and I don't have the position lights.

For the 2007 DL1000, the Signals circuit does not power the turn signals or brake lights. They draw power from the regulator/rectifier. That's good, because it means I can eliminate the turn signals & brake lights as sources of shorts on the Signals circuit.

Handlebar switches are not likely causing the short. The controls all work fine (that is, until the Signals fuse blows, then some do nothing!), and I did not find any wire or connector damage when I was installing my EB handlebar wiring extensions.

Left to examine are the switches associated with brakes, and the heated grips. If it's not one of those, there has to be a fault somewhere in the main harness (rubbed-through covering etc.).
 

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I could see no obvious shorts in the heated grips wiring, but much of it is run *inside* the bars so who knows what's going on in there.

Going to disconnect them entirely, given that I don't need them and am going to replace them anyway.
 

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I suspect you are on the right track looking for a intermittent short. I'm curious to know if the PO put in an underrated fuse in the turn signal circuit. Did you confirm the correct amperage fuse is being used? It's a long-shot but worth checking...good luck with it!
 

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All the fuses were the originals to start with. I've been replacing the one that keeps blowing (Signals) with the correct 15A fuse.

I need to have a look at the multi-pin connector that feeds the instrument panel, as well. Could be something wrong there.
 
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