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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,

What I'm posting here is a pictorial of the rebuilding and installation of 4 piston front calipers and stainless steel braided brake lines.


Honestly this thread is more of a show off thread but I will be happy to answer questions someone may have.

I went with front Galfer stainless brake lines and Galfer sintered brake pads.

The front calipers I chose from ebay were from a 2003 Honda CBR954RR Fireblade I went with ( bling ) gold Nissan calipers to break things up a bit in the front as to not have so much black in one area. Stock front calipers were Tokico. The stock Master cylinder in Nissan.



Direct Bolt on for the 4 Piston Nissin CBR 600 F4 - F4i All Model Years, 2000 - 2001 CBR 929, 2002 - 2003 CBR 954, 2003 - 2004 CBR 600RR.

Direct Bolt on for the 4 Piston Tokico 2001 - 2003 GSXR 600, 2000 - 2003 GSXR 750, All Model Years of the SV1000. These are all the same Tokico Calipers.

There are two different brake upgrade bracket kits. One for Tokico and the other for NIssan.



RESULTS ! Brakes are definitely much better. Not grabby but very linear and predictable. Two fingers. I'm not in shock or awe though. I think you would have to upgrade the master cylinder for shock and awe. I will honestly say I am a little disappointed but at the same time it was worth it.




NOTE: Each picture links to a larger picture.



Stock Tokico front Calipers - they didn't stop to well.

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Galfer stainless steel braided brake lines. Sintered Galfer front brake pads. Big Brake Adaptor Brackets.

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Larger Nissan 4 piston calipers from a 2003 Honda CBR954RR Fireblade. Cleaned up and ready for assembly.

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Larger Nissan 4 piston calipers from a 2003 Honda CBR954RR Fireblade. Cleaned up and ready for assembly. EXTENDED VIEW.

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New seals and pistons being installed.

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Calipers complete.

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Calipers complete. ANOTHER ANGLE.

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Calipers, adapter brackets. fasteners.

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Stainless Galfer brake lines, banjo - bolts, sealing crush washers.

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Old original Tokico calipers and brake lines. PERFECT PAPER WEIGHTS.

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Look Ma no front brakes ! Not much difference from the stock brakes when they were installed.

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Major props and a big thank you to forum member christophermarkfoster for pointing out that I had the brackets on upside down. Can I say duh !?

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Bleeding the brake master cylinder with Motul 5.1.

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View from the cockpit. Double banjo bolts and dual brake lines.

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Right side caliper view and brake line.

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Left side caliper view and brake line.

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Underview of suspension and brake lines. Routing is important as to not get entangled on the triple clamps when turning handle bars. Extra brake line slack is important for suspension travel

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Front brake lever bound and pulled in overnight to test for a no leak condition. NO LEAKS !!!

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All done. It was June 29th @ 3:30 am.






RESULTS ! Brakes are definitely much better. Not grabby but very linear and predictable. Two fingers. I'm not in shock or awe though. I think you would have to upgrade the master cylinder for shock and awe. I will honestly say I am a little disappointed but at the same time it was worth it.








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Discussion Starter #3

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Discussion Starter #5

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Where did you find the replacement caliper bolts? Do you happen to know the sizes?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Where did you find the replacement caliper bolts? Do you happen to know the sizes?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

All the caliper bolts are M8s (2) M8 x 40 (2) M8 x 35.

The adapter bracket bolts are (2) M10 x about 30 (2) M12 x about 30.

Blair from SV Racing Parts is the one that put those kits together.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
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UPDATE ! Brakes are definitely much better. Not grabby but very linear and predictable. Two fingers. I'm not in shock or awe though. I think you would have to upgrade the master cylinder for shock and awe. I will honestly say I am a little disappointed but at the same time it was worth it.



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Discussion Starter #11
:var_54: You are right, I put them on upside down. OMG !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's fixed. I will repost pictures, re-edit the stopping power results after I go for a ride, admit my mistake and give you mention ( christophermarkfoster ) for pointing out the error of my ways.

How embarrassing on my part. I feel like an idiot. But thank you so much for pointing that out. I was wrong about the bolt sizes. They are (2) 10 x 25 and 8 x 20 for caliper attachment.

(2) bolts on the caliper are 8 x 40 and (2) 6 x 25. The hanging pins, I'm not sure. These are of my particular calipers.
 

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I'm just glad it was easily correctable. Who knows if it could have worked adversely for you or not. I actually had a bolt on one of mine that I didn't torque and it vibrated loose. We all have to watch out for each other because its too easy to miss something small. Ride safe!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I'm just glad it was easily correctable. Who knows if it could have worked adversely for you or not. I actually had a bolt on one of mine that I didn't torque and it vibrated loose. We all have to watch out for each other because its too easy to miss something small. Ride safe!

The bottom of pads weren't making full contact with the rotor. I'm curious to see how much better these brake will work now.

Thank you so much ! Yes ride safe as well. :smile2:



LATEST UPDATE ! Brakes are definitely much better. Not grabby but very linear and predictable. Two fingers. I'm not in shock or awe though. I think you would have to upgrade the master cylinder for shock and awe. I will honestly say I am a little disappointed but at the same time it was worth it.
 

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Did you find some way to re-use the stock brake line supports? I put +2" Galfers on my DL1000 a few months ago but they are too skinny to stay in the original guides.

I tried using only the rubber-coated clamp that came with the kit, on the triple tree in place of the stock brake line guide. But the left line kept rubbing on the fender when the forks compressed during braking. Wasn't long before the PVC coating was rubbed through in that spot.

I ended up wrapping several layers of electrical tape around the sheetmetal J-hook type support that goes on the left side of the fender, & reversing it so that the line would stay within it. That seemed to fix the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did you find some way to re-use the stock brake line supports? I put +2" Galfers on my DL1000 a few months ago but they are too skinny to stay in the original guides.

I tried using only the rubber-coated clamp that came with the kit, on the triple tree in place of the stock brake line guide. But the left line kept rubbing on the fender when the forks compressed during braking. Wasn't long before the PVC coating was rubbed through in that spot.

I ended up wrapping several layers of electrical tape around the sheetmetal J-hook type support that goes on the left side of the fender, & reversing it so that the line would stay within it. That seemed to fix the problem.
Here are link to pictures showing the line brackets.

I used the OEM left side bracket and modified and sort of fabbed the right bracket.
I used rubber hose, cut a line in it to slip over the brake line, put electrical tape around the hose, stuck the house in the U part of the brackets.


If you can't see the images in the link, let me know. I'll post post them a different way.

https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/66129916_2068014016836698_8494968432679190528_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_oc=AQmyqRTT9lmxlQhRg-GCtQ2i-nrit77dnLU89lIl2PYW6kq99lNsw3UtiLgvL7NLeFQ&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=874037e3bf709198df6454cae995eb87&oe=5DBDE285

https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65304033_2068014086836691_6940272803618750464_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_oc=AQlpjhyVrJ3vbxL6yqMgLqkx7M4EF1BcrficR_NCOl50cFsQl_gn9TjGNfjwPnZlYt0&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=308766fdcb6957999cf2177e22703044&oe=5D7FB073
 

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Nicely done. I haven't noticed the right line rubbing against anything, so I've left it be.

If it does rub, there are bits and pieces at the local hardware store that can help. Like those rubber-coated cable clamp thingies, similar to the one supplied with the Galfer brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If your lines aren't rubbing you're most likely ok but those rubber coated clamps would be a good idea. The original lines that went over the fender were fastened securely with OEM fit and finish, problem is they don't help with stopping DL1000s. :smile2:
 

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How firm is your brake lever?

I have found that the feel of the conversion absolutely depends on getting ALL the air out of the system. Which is harder than you might think. Until I finally got to that point, I would say I expected more too.
 
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