I do all my own service and repair work. I have never taken it to a dealer, not even for the first check. I run synthetic 4-stroke oil and have put on 28,000 trouble free KM's so far this year.
There is absolutatly no need for the valves to be checked for at least 24,000km, and mine were all still within spec at that mileage.
I worked for suzuki many years ago, and have always ridden suzukis.
Cool. I try and do my own work when I can. I had an old Ninja 900 and wrenched nearly everything (young and lacking $). But since I bought the Dl new I was worried that if I didnt bring er in I may have screwed the warranty. When I found it wasnt the case I just changed the oil..
Providing you keep reciepts and records of your service work (oil, filters, etc) and the bike shows no sign of abuse, the warranty must be honored. "warranty checks" done by dealers are good if you have found a dealer you can trust. Often (very) you will get work done that is not required, and some will tell you that they must do the work or you have no warranty. This is incorrect.
The valves are a fair amount of work to adjust on the Wee, so its very nice that they dont require adjusting very often. Using synthetic oil should really help out with this.
Two of the valves on my 01 BMW F650 were out of spec (too tight) when I checked them at 600 miles. They arent scheduled to be checked until 6000 miles. Is it worth taking a chance (however slight) that the valves are set correctly at the factory? If they arent, theyll be like that for 15,000 miles or until you check them.
I'm at 14,500 miles on an 05 650. I'm gonna do everything the book says and replace chain and spockets. That would include valve adjustments. Supposedly that is gonna be about $500 at a local dealer. So far all I've replaced is tires.
Can anyone suggest a stronget set of front springs?
I haven't done the valves on my DL, yet but I did them two or three times on my ZR-7 (inline four), having never done more than change oil. With a service manual, patience, and help from others, I got the job done and the motor didn't sieze.
The cost savings are pretty substantial for valve checks because the parts only consist of a couple of shims and, maybe a gasket. The only special tools you should need are a set of feeler guages (metric if you can find them) and a torque wrench suitable for the specs on the valve covers and camshaft caps (assuming you need to replace shims). I've also found that a strong magnet is useful for removing the buckets and will also bring the shim along with it.
If I get in 10,000 miles or so this year I will probably check my valves this fall; otherwise, next fall. If you have to order shims, it can take a while to get everything back together.
Thanks for the info guys. I doubt my valaves are out of whack either. Bike runs as good as it did new with the exception of the idle speed which is 900-1000 RPM.
I'm no wrench. I'd screw up more than I would fix.
The dealer that will likely charge me $500 for the 15K service is very competent and honest. I think. They sold and installed the Pirelli Scorpion STs for $225 and did some free adjustments for me. I trust them to do the right thing.
I'll report back with any valve issues they uncover, if any.
RodK, you might want to increase the idle up to 1200 or so. The adjuster is on the left side of bike below the tank. You will need a Philips screwdriver. In my 05 manual there is a pic on page 6-16. Ride On, Ride Safe.
I've found that increasing my idle to beyond 1100 results in a slow return to idle. Springs are free and nothing seems to stick. Am I missing something? PS: Although I'm in Arizona, I purchased the 'Strom in California and it may have some residual smog duff.
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