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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

I have spent considerable time searching with not much luck. Is anyone able to link me, or tell me what the stock suspension limit is?

I weigh 110kg, my wife 55kg. So that is 165kg / 364lb without gear. I plan to do most of my riding with my wife, overnight trips being the longest ride. I do plan to do ~5 day trips occasionally with her, and maybe once a year without her. I do plan occasional gravel roads, erosion mounds (but no air time), but I do not plan to get anywhere near ruts, single track, rock steps etc.

I found one post linking to a youtube video that suggested ~190lb / 86kgs was where it was at, but this was referring to the spring, not the whole suspension.

I have not purchased a strom as yet, and this will be a major contributer to how much I spend on the bike. If I need to spend more getting an Elka I will need to buy a bike with higher miles so I can get it cheaper.

What I would like to know is;

1) If I purchase just springs (not a new shock/revalve etc) what is my limit?
2) Can I reach my ~165+ kgs on stock suspension with just stiffer springs?
3) What is a rough cost for me to do this? (Recommended brand of spring?)
4) If you are a bigger person, what do you weigh and what did you do?
5) Will the limitation just be the sag, or will it be damping control as well?


Cheers
Chris
 

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Hi
I take my daughter in law, into to work, 3 times a week. I'm 215lbs. and she's 140 or so. don't tell her I said that, and the o5 WEE does just fine. I have pelican cases and a trunk, with rain gear and jackets. The Wee does very well and there is alot of traffic. No off road, And 2up could be tricky.
Try it and see. The bike is tough so the rest is up to you. The bike is bone stock.
Merry Christmas
Fred
 

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The front damping will be O.K. with heavier springs, just run heavier oil as well.

Rear won't have enough damping. (It may not be insanely bad unless you hit really bad roads, the mass of the rider and pillion is 'squishy' and provides some damping)

Either an aftermarket shock, or much less $$ get Sasquatch to rebuild it.

With those issues fixed the bike is fine with heavy loads - I think it's still running second to the GoldWing in terms of added weight - but it's rated much higher than most bikes - and it is really tough.

Costs, sorry not in the US, but the springs themselves are not very expensive.

Pete
 

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http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/model_eval/200405-VStrom.pdf

This article includes specs for the DL650

Wheelbase: ................................60.6"
Rake/trail..............................26°/4.33"
Ground clearance: ........................6.5"
Seat height :..............................31.75"
GVWR: ..................................925 lbs.
Wet weight: ......................471.5 lbs.
Carrying capacity: ..............453.5 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi
I take my daughter in law, into to work, 3 times a week. I'm 215lbs. and she's 140 or so. don't tell her I said that, and the o5 WEE does just fine. I have pelican cases and a trunk, with rain gear and jackets. The Wee does very well and there is alot of traffic. No off road, And 2up could be tricky.
Try it and see. The bike is tough so the rest is up to you. The bike is bone stock.
Merry Christmas
Fred

Thanks for the input, it's good to know it is a usable bike with the sort of weight I am thinking for commutes at least.




The front damping will be O.K. with heavier springs, just run heavier oil as well.

Rear won't have enough damping. (It may not be insanely bad unless you hit really bad roads, the mass of the rider and pillion is 'squishy' and provides some damping)

Either an aftermarket shock, or much less $$ get Sasquatch to rebuild it.

With those issues fixed the bike is fine with heavy loads - I think it's still running second to the GoldWing in terms of added weight - but it's rated much higher than most bikes - and it is really tough.

Costs, sorry not in the US, but the springs themselves are not very expensive.

Pete
Thanks. I am in Australia as well, so I don't think the Sasquatch is a viable solution.


http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/model_eval/200405-VStrom.pdf

This article includes specs for the DL650

Wheelbase: ................................60.6"
Rake/trail..............................26°/4.33"
Ground clearance: ........................6.5"
Seat height :..............................31.75"
GVWR: ..................................925 lbs.
Wet weight: ......................471.5 lbs.
Carrying capacity: ..............453.5 lbs.

So according to factory it should be ok. I'll try to find a stock one to ride and see what I can work out.

Thanks :) If anyone else has experience/input, please feel free.

Cheers
Chris
 

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We have a wee in the shed (as well as a vee) and for the most part my wife and youngest son are on it so weight is about 150kgs when including the top box for a day trip. Handles the duties no probs according to her and from what I see (I'm usually 2nd) I'd have to agree.

We did a swap a while ago to see how it'd go with me and the oldest son on the bike. Weight all up would have been around the 190kg mark I guess and the bike seamed to do OK. Had the preload on the rear wound up tight at first but then wound it down a few clicks. Also uped the rebound on the rear shock by 1/4 turn which I found made it a little better on the road.
Front preload I left as it was. As for damping in the front end I thought it was OK for good country roads and felt it was a bit less damped than the vee that IMO made it a little more softer/plush to ride. If the roads had of got more choppy, i think it may have suffered tho.

Oh, both the wee and vee have ricks fork brace fitted and the wee has the forks dropped ~10mm in the tripples
 

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weight bias

Hello, I'm new to the forum; trying to hear what others have experienced;

I'm a recently a new owner of an used '04 DL650 out here in California, and went on a ride up HWY 1 with a passenger and a few bags of gear. I'm 150lbs., she's 130, and had at most 80 lbs of gear. that's 310 lbs additional total, about 3/4 of the 450 lb Gross limit.

I'm somewhat of a DIY'er, so I mounted a custom rack made out of a skateboard deck and bamboo to the existing custom Givi-rack mount, and loaded all the gear there, strapped down tight, with the large bag first, and the two others draped over like saddle bags. Still, the weight was further rear and higher than where the aftermarket hard-bags would have placed it.

I found riding the HWY 1 twisties to be somewhat unnerving, since the front wheel didn't seem like it wanted to get a firm planting on the pavement. Lots of front end wobbles at lower speeds. The weight was definitely biased to the rear; until I was going 35+ mph the steering felt unstable, or, in other words, it required a much greater effort to put the DL on the intended line I wanted to travel.

On the freeway, or up at around 50 mph, the gyroscopic forces and lowered suspension stabilized the motorcycle, where I felt more comfortable pushing down on the handlebars (and got a more positive feedback response to steering).

The rear suspension was cranked fully tight; I didn't mess with the front suspension but suspect it wouldn't solve the problem of a motorcycle excessively loaded to the rear.

Thoughts gents' (and ladies)? I thought the DL 650 would be perfect for two-up riding long distances over all sorts of terrain; but this experience made me a bit discouraged.
 

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You misplaced the weight. Weight needs to be kept as close to the center of mass as possible. The densest items belong in a tank bag, tank panniers and in the bottom front part of the side cases. No motorcycle is going to react well to such a load. A stock V-Strom has too light a rear shock spring besides so changing that can help but your loading method won't work well. Also, 150+130+80=360. Weigh yourselves with your riding gear and weigh the load instead of guessing and I bet it is more. Also, if that weight is shifting a little, bad things can happen.
 

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Klimber; First things first...check your tire pressures then lower the forks 10 or 12 mm through the tripples it makes a great and positive improvement in planting the front. Cost..about 15min. of your time. Heavier front springs and Gold Valve emulators will have you singing praises. Plenty of info on this forum. You may add heavier rear spring but I'm at odds with many Troopers as I think the rear shock is very good, mine has been faultless.

Saturn 5
 

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Heavier fork springs help the ride and brake dive but won't help with loading. Lowering the front helps with high speed aerodynamics, not the low speed stuff mentioned here. The Wee rear shock leaves much to be desired.
 

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Lowering the front

I'll agree to disagree with you G.W. in the lowering of the front 10-12m through the triple clamps. I find my bike now feels great and connected to the front wheel at all speeds, where as before, at standard setting, the front was awfully vague, probably the worst standard setting on any bike I have ridden.
I'm in total agreement to all your other suggestions.
Cheers
Saturn 5
 

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At low speeds, steering is quicker and more responsive with the front lowered. I like the feel better too. It is not more stable though. Stability is holding a line without deviation, the opposite of quick and responsive steering. Responsive steering allows easier correction which may be mistaken for stability but it is different.
 

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Suspension

I've never experienced any stability problem with my 650. But I'm a good boy now and don't travel at warp speed any more. Ahem! As a matter of interest G.W. what shock do you now have fitted? I'm very conscious of every aspect of my bike at every turn of the wheel. I am satisfied with the OEM shock I have, it does everything I need on both paved road and outback dirt, never two up but sometimes loaded.
 

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I have an Elka shock from SVRacingparts.com and AK-20 custom cartridges from Traxxion Dynamics in the forks.
 

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GW,

always fascinated by the AK-20 Custom Cartridge - obviously cost too much for me in Australia. Would you elaborate your experience with AK-20.

+1 on Elka shock - adjustable everything with custom spring and (as advertised) custom valving . Getting from Blair @SV Racing is the cheapest option with excellent service.
 

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I got the AK-20s because I figured if I went for springs and emulators I'd wonder how much better the AK-20s would be. I can take the bike over speed bumps on my local city streets at the 25mph speed limit while sitting down. I do it regularly to justify spending over $2000 on suspension parts. It's probably something I would not do again. It's a lot of money for a little improvement. I'd probably go with Sasquatch instead.
 

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thx

ohh embarrassing I can't do math right.

thanks for the tips, yeah I figured (a little late) lowering/lightening the front pre-load might help a bit; to get more/stiffer compression earlier in the stroke, but I agree with Grey's that the weight was probly loaded too much to the rear.

thing is, I've done the same to my YZF 600r, which acted similar but not as bad as on the DL. I assumed that since the YZF has tighter suspension all around, that is why the steering woes weren't as pronounced, so the problem must be with the DL's suspension.

So I guess I have to find a way to mount some bags on the tank and as panniers, or worse, buy some!

k
 

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problem (mostly) solved

just for folks checkin this thread for info;

I lightened the preload on the front, which brought the front end down; world of difference. I'm 145 lbs., my passenger about 130 lbs., and that trip I took I have about 100+ lbs luggage in the rear. I'm sure with the front preload set correctly (3 bars showing), it wouldn't have been as bad as I experienced...

lighter, lower front preload makes steering more responsive. loosening the front too much would (theoretically) result in bottoming out over large bumps and less straight-line high speed stability

k
 

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just for folks checkin this thread for info;

I lightened the preload on the front, which brought the front end down; world of difference. I'm 145 lbs., my passenger about 130 lbs., and that trip I took I have about 100+ lbs luggage in the rear. I'm sure with the front preload set correctly (3 bars showing), it wouldn't have been as bad as I experienced...

lighter, lower front preload makes steering more responsive. loosening the front too much would (theoretically) result in bottoming out over large bumps and less straight-line high speed stability

k
I wont comment on the rear - because i think stock spring just wont work well at all 2 up.

But yes i always reduce the preload when traveling 2 up, never understood why so many comment upping the preload on the front when going 2 up.
 

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rear suspension

HOPEFULLY picking up me new to me Wee this weekend,,,,

What is the least expensive rear spring/shock available??

I am a plump 290 lbs and 6'3"...:yikes:

I have seen some people lift the rear end too... where can I order these too??
 
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