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My DL650 has been fantastic, but the real response to this post is always listen to your wife! I traded her Jeep GC (115,000 miles, running great) for a new Honda Pilot. My wife was worried it was going to start causing problems. I felt it would last another 100,000 miles, but I didn't want to hear about it for the next 4 years if I was wrong.

Some things money can buy!
 

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I'll consider myself lucky. My dealer was helpful and as far as I know, honest. The best part is that the head mechanic owns a Vee. Had my wee set up beautifully and took the time to adjust the shifter to fit my footwear and riding position. Gives me a bit of advice/wisdom each time I stop by the store.
 

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I just took my first ride on my 2008 DL1000. It died four times and would cut out around 2500 or 2600 rpm. I had nothing but trouble with the buying process and was happy to at last have the bike, now I don't know.
It seems that under moderate braking the engine dies. It starts up again with no problem though. After the second time I pulled a u turn to head back home and died two more times with less than moderate braking. I tried to "play" around and brake in different gears or with clutch in/out just to see what would happen, and there is no real pattern, it just dies.
Also the bike "cuts out" if riding at 2500 or 2600 rpm. Just a quick stutter, but it's visible in the tach as well as feeling the bike just sort of die for a second.
Has anyone heard or had these issues? I would like some sort of knowledge when I take it back to that hell-hole, crap-ass dealer.
Stop trying to ride it like a Harley!

First off, turn the idle up to 1200 rpm. Secondly, stop trying to lug the bike. Rev it up man, rev it up.

Don't ride at 2600 rpm!

I'm sure the engine will get smoother, but if you continue to have problems, you may have a loose intake boot or worse.

I guess taking it to the dealer to sort is out.

Did you test ride this bike before buying?
 

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Just to update: I have been in contact with an old friend that prepares bikes for off road racing. He said it's no problem, he'd help/show me how to do a TBS and PC111 install. Great, long weekend, good weather, catch up with an old buddy and get the bike running right, awesome!!!! One small problem; as I was on my commute home from work the bike died. I was at a stop light when I noticed the tach slowly dropping. At this point the engine was running normally so I thought it might be an electrical bug, but when the needle hit bottom the bike died. It would not re-start and would just click.
I assume it's a charging issue but it really doesn't matter as it's back in the dealers hands again.
So, how many of you loyal kool-aid sipping Suzuki apologists will tell me this is normal also?;)
Oh that's so typical. If something doesn't run right, stick a Power Commander on it. Well guess what, my 2007 DL1000 has no PC and runs perfectly. i would therefore assume that a PC is not necessary. Especially not until everything else is sorted out and the engine given some time to break in.

Sounds like a loose battery cable.
 

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I would also assume that you would not need a PC to make the bike run correctly, but the majority of responses from forum members was that it was the best way to "remedy" the problems.
As for "riding it like a Harley", I just sold the HD to pay/make room for the vee. I have a stable of bikes, American, Britt., Jap. etc. So if you get the impression that I'm some "credit card, new to the hobby yuppie", you are mistaken. I realize how engines differ, and understand their characteristics. I have done minor and major work to most of my steeds and enjoy each of them for what they are.My 1966 BSA cafe racer is fun to "bar-hop" with but it would be hell for a long ride.
I think with the Vee, I was looking for an "all-around" bike, to commute or go cross country. So we'll see what the dealer says is wrong and fix it. Simple right?
 

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What the hell is an "UP bike?

Sorry, I completely disagree that the V strom is something less than an "up"bike, which I take to mean a bike that has a large dealer network, is overpriced and has, in my experience, as many problems as other motorcycles. As in everything you purchase, some are good, some not so good.

I think the V Strom is a remarkable bike, very high value, runs with the top bikes on any street,
and looks good doing it. I"m going wear this one out and get another one.
 

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Hey Bowzer, I don`t know you and I don`t care if you trade this bike off on a different brand. Really. :eek: But if you do these things that are suggested you will LOVE your bike. I don`t have a power commander and my bike runs great. Check boots , do the tbs, and bump the idle up. You will have to have them done by yourself or somebody else sooner or later anyway even if you did not have issues now. And tell everybody whe the dealer was if you have not done so already. I have not read all the posts.
 

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Update: After one week at the dealer they say it's the reg/rec and should have the bike repaired by the weekend.
I realize this will fix the charging issue, and I think I could see where this might also help with the stutter (maybe), but it's ok because my new PC111 came in the mail this week. So here's where I'm at,
Does a PC111 void a warranty? I have extended coverage + factory. I've been told yes and no so I don't know at this point. Even guys at the dealer say to install them so... and what map do I use. My 08 DL1K is stock. I'm not interested in airbox or pipe upgrades (now). Just looking for a smooth reliable bike. I use it to commute and two up touring. I could not find a 08 map on their site and was told to use #311-004 for 06-07. Is this correct?
 

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Latest developments

Went for a 200 mile plus ride on Tuesday. High temps were over 90 degrees f. About half way out, upon stopping at an auto parts, looking for a stick on thermometer, the bike started to act funny. When I restarted to leave it wanted to die then recovered when I took my hand off the throttle. I then noticed that if I twisted the throttle backwards the bike would stall or try to then recover if I took my hand off again, I also noticed very little or no free play in throttle.

Here is my theory, Reverse pull cable is way too tight, when the temps increase and the outer housing warms it expands and stretches the inner cable to the point of pulling the throttle plates fully shut, overcoming the idle screw setting. This closing of the throttle plate causes a complete stoppage of air flow and extremely high manifold vacuum which sends confusing data to the ecm. Once you open the throttle a little it takes a few seconds for the ecm to compensate.

Friday I installed a new TPS as a precaution and took steps to slacken the return cable to the point of being loose, considered taking it out completely and relying on the springs only. The cables on my bike, although appearing to be OEM are at the minimum length adjustments both at the throttle bodies and at the in-line adjusters. At this time I have plenty of slack but if for some reason the tightness comes back I will have to shorten the outer housings with a dremel tool, I've done this before when I repaired a broken cable end on my BMW.

My suggestion to anyone having this stumbling and stalling problem would be to check the cables and make sure the return cable is not fighting with the pull cable. Look for slack in the return cable at the throttle bodies, especially with the twist grip forced back against the stop, fully closed position.

Will report again after my next ride and the behavior of throttle.
 

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Bowzer,

I feel for you, I bought a new 06 from the dealer in 07. I told them I wanted the TBS done before pick up (I had read a bit about the bike)... they didn't do it. The idle was also low. It also surged at 2500-3800.

I did the TBS myself (it isn't too hard) and that helped a lot (read still not totally perfect. While the bike is at the dealer, maybe they could do this for you if you ask.

I put the idle to 1250, and haven't stalled since (well, okay, that one time was totally my fault... okay it was more than once... but still my fault).

I don't think that a dealer should be allowed to sell a bike that isn't set up right... if I didn't play with bikes I think I would have been super pissed.

As you do play with them, I think you will turn out okay.

Here and the other Vee site have maps to use for the PCIII (I don't have one, too rich for my blood). As far as warrenty, I have heard that it does void it... so I would remove it before taking it in for work.

I commute a lot and forget what a great bike this is (low speeds, stop and go etc). Then I take it out on the weekend up in the hills and get on the gas... it comes back to me... what a great bike.

Welcome, sorry for your heart ache and we'll see you around.
 

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I would also assume that you would not need a PC to make the bike run correctly, but the majority of responses from forum members was that it was the best way to "remedy" the problems.
As for "riding it like a Harley", I just sold the HD to pay/make room for the vee. I have a stable of bikes, American, Britt., Jap. etc. So if you get the impression that I'm some "credit card, new to the hobby yuppie", you are mistaken. I realize how engines differ, and understand their characteristics. I have done minor and major work to most of my steeds and enjoy each of them for what they are.My 1966 BSA cafe racer is fun to "bar-hop" with but it would be hell for a long ride.
I think with the Vee, I was looking for an "all-around" bike, to commute or go cross country. So we'll see what the dealer says is wrong and fix it. Simple right?
I did it again. I wrote up a whole big reply but deleted it. I don't think you need my advice. Anybody with a stable of bikes will know what to do.

I give a dealer one chance, then I fix it. Fortunately with the Vee, I haven't had to do anything, and neither has the dealer. It's perfect :)
 

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Problem seems to be solved

As I wrote in my last post, I slackened the throttle return cable and it seems to have corrected the stalling problem. I rode today, high temp about 93 degrees f. Ran perfectly. I would suggest that anyone experience this problem check the return cable slack while it is acting up, then compare same to the bike when it is cold and air temps are cooler. The adjustment procedure calls for a little tautness in the return cable. In my opinion that is the root of the problem.
 

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Something else happened. I purposely keep my throttle cables loose to accommodate an electronic cruise control. It has no effect on manual throttle control. The return cable only comes into play if something goes wrong with the throttle return spring or linkage.
 

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Pciii

To get the absolute best result from your PCIII, you'll want to find an authorized Dynojet tuning center, with an eddy-current dyno (Dynojet model 250, for example), exhaust gas analyzer and the tuning link software. This setup reads the exhaust gas real-time and lets the operator set the exact air/fuel ratio across the entire range, say 13.1 to 1, for instance. The tuning link software automatically creates the proposed changes for the map, to get it to that ratio, as the bike is run on the dyno. The map is then dumped into the PC, bike is run again, repeat 2 or 3 times until the mixture is right.

A riding buddy of mine has this setup in his shop, and it is impressive. He has had numerous cusotmers come in that have downloaded a map from Dynojet or wherever, based on their bikes equipment, ie. slip-on exhaust, K&N filter, etc, only to find out once it is on the dyno that the map was way off.

After seeing this in action, I am a firm believer that this is the way to go if you are installing a PCIII, otherwise you may not get the improvement that you are seeking. Despite what "the internet" says, the PCIII is not necessarily a plug and play device. You'll probably spend $300 - $350 for this custom mapping, but if you don't you may have wasted whatever you spent on your PCIII.

Good luck and I sincerely hope you can find some satisfaction with the bike.

Keep the shiny side up!
 

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Well it took some tinkering and some struggles with the dealer, but I'm happy to say my 1000 now runs well. I'm really enjoying it, and no longer angry. :D:p:DNow I just need to get out more often.
 

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Awesome! That's good to hear.
For the record, I too am a former HD rider. Not former due to any other issue than financial. At that time, we just could not justify the payment on the Softail, so it had to go. The Strom is a really nice addition to the stable, but I'd still really like to have my Softail back as well. Of course, one can never have too many bikes, right? :)
 

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Well it took some tinkering and some struggles with the dealer, but I'm happy to say my 1000 now runs well. I'm really enjoying it, and no longer angry. :D:p:DNow I just need to get out more often.
After you enjoying revvin her up to the 5-7000 rpm range for awhile, try this: from a standing start (keep the front wheel down hehehe) open her up fully to redline, shift repeat, etc. Serious fun.

Above 7,000 is where the fun is! For the first 6 months I had the bike I enjoyed the low end torque, and wonderful midrange power, but after a few excursions into the top of the rev range, I'm convinced that is where the real fun is.

Ask a Harley friend to try to keep up with you when you go through the gears like this.
 

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Backfiring and popping - suggestions?

Help...

I have an '02 V-Strom DL-1000 with 30K miles on it, with a TechLusion FI-1025 TFI Fuel Injection Module, Leo Vince X3 pipes.

It runs pretty well and my gas mileage is consistently between , but when downshifting/deceleration, I have some backfiring going on, with the occasional "big pop" and blue flame spout. During idle, every 10-15 secs, it "skips", but not consistently.

This can't be normal or good, can it?

Have tried different adjustments on the TFI module and this seems to decrease it a little in certain settings, but it still exists.

Suggestions? Could I have a loose hose somewhere that's letting air into the system, or ... ? I could use some troubleshooting advice (not a very good mechanic and a novice at best when it comes to anything to do with carbs and fuel systems...

Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice.
 

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//

Above 7,000 is where the fun is! For the first 6 months I had the bike I enjoyed the low end torque, and wonderful midrange power, but after a few excursions into the top of the rev range, I'm convinced that is where the real fun is.
//
I ride along at 7-8K sometimes, just to hear it.
 
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