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Along with numerous mounting flanges ( Oooo, lets not go there ) the convoluted exhaust collector pipe with header and muffler connections is located under the engine where you likely made contact with Mother Earth.

Hoping it's an exhaust fix, this might be a thread worth reading:
http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/364018-leaks-exhaust-joints.html

Look at a micro-fiche diagram of OEM exhaust parts they're talking about here:
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2002-suzuki-v-strom-1000-dl1000/o/m147689#sch247596
 

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After installing new coils, I can ride up to 2k rpm now before the bike falls on its face again. It seems to clear around 5.5k rpm and pull strong. Until then, it's sluggish, running on 1 cylinder for the most part. I feel like I've exhausted the spark side of the problem so I started looking at the fuel end. I know the external fuel mod is a popular choice. I did the quick and dirty flow test and got 250ml of fuel after turning the key on 3 times and waiting for the fuel pump to stop. I am not sure how much fuel the tank had. 1-2 bars was showing on dash. I realize this is less than the mentioned 300-320. Next step is to do the fuel filter mod unless someone can think of another reason.
 

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I would certainly try the filter mod. Won't hurt anything!
 

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DL1000 Starting

Wondering if this is normal. When I turn the key I here the fuel pump running. Then it stops. When I hit the starter button it pumps again for a few seconds before the starter engages. Also sometimes I can here a sound like when your battery is too low to engage like a buzzing solenoid. But it never fails to start.
 

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Ok so after the fuel pump mod, no improvement. I'm going to type out my general problem and what I've tried so far since it's scattered among a bunch of posts.

I got a '05 DL1000 that ran rich (smelled horrible). Idle wasn't stable and would sometimes die. Previous owner said it's due to the ECM being tuned wrong using a Yosh box. So I got a used ECM off of eBay. This solved the running rich problem but brought another problem with it. The bike idles fine. Revs no problem in neutral. As soon as I try to take off, there is very little power until 2000rpm. Then along with little power, it starts misfiring until 4500rpm. Pulls hard after 4500rpm.

Things I've tried: New ECM, new TPS(brand new, adjusted), new spark plugs, new coils(used off of eBay), external fuel pump mod. I've checked intake boots, air filter.

One thing I've noticed is that the throttle body vacuum lines aren't connected to each other but are plugged with screws.

Tomorrow I'm planning to spray some cleaner to the intake boots while the bike is running and check for a vacuum leak. I'm also going to add some fuel treatment to the gas tank. See if that does anything.

Any ideas are appreciated. Thank you.
 

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Throttle body vacuum ports have nipples on each from the factory. No reason to interconnect them.

Your symptoms are certainly unusual. If it were mine there is one thing you have not said anything about that I would check. Cam Timing. Do you know if this has been done? Previous owner may have done a valve clearance check and replaced shims and got it out of whack. Could explain trying to use a tuner to get it running better. Would explain rich smell and no power down low.
 

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I haven't checked the timing or valve clearance. The previous owner got all that done at a shop almost right before selling the bike. I just did a vacuum leak check and have nothing to report. Added some chevron to the tank, no difference. Put the old ECM back in to see what will happen. Immediately I have irregular idle. Dies if idles for too long. But it rides beautifully with the old ECM. Switched back to new ECM. Checked voltage. 12.85V at 3k rpm. idles at about 12.3. The lights dim at idle and brighten when I give throttle. Looking at maintenance records, it recently had a new regulator rectifier put in along with the valve clearance check and throttle body sync. Stator was checked and found good apparently.

Idle is set at 1100-1200 rpm and TPS moves from -C00 at 1900rpm.
 

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Your voltages are low. I'd guess the new R/R was put in as a result but the problem is actually the stator or migrated magnets. Those are common problems while R.R problems are rare.
 

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I haven't checked the timing or valve clearance. The previous owner got all that done at a shop almost right before selling the bike. I just did a vacuum leak check and have nothing to report. Added some chevron to the tank, no difference. Put the old ECM back in to see what will happen. Immediately I have irregular idle. Dies if idles for too long. But it rides beautifully with the old ECM. Switched back to new ECM. Checked voltage. 12.85V at 3k rpm. idles at about 12.3. The lights dim at idle and brighten when I give throttle. Looking at maintenance records, it recently had a new regulator rectifier put in along with the valve clearance check and throttle body sync. Stator was checked and found good apparently.

Idle is set at 1100-1200 rpm and TPS moves from -C00 at 1900rpm.
You have a bad stator or migrated rotor magnets, AND like Terry I am betting the cam timing is off from the botched valve adjustment.
 

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As greywolf says, your voltages are way low. That problem has to be fixed first. Low voltage can have a really big effect on how these things run. Some bikes will be worse than others. Before I figured out my Vee had a voltage issue ( that was easy, it quit on me in rush hour with 5 lanes of traffic in each direction..), I had battled some poor running issues. Those magically went mostly away after fixing the charging system.

Back to your report about previous owner having valves looked at by a shop. I am thinking it never ran right after that, and that is part of why it was sold. I am very suspicious of the valve/cam timing.
 
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Would low voltage cause the power loss issue I'm having? I guess I'll open up the stator cover and check the magnets if so. Do I need to drain the oil to check it? I have a lift and a rear stand so the bike will be level.
 

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Sorry, I completely disagree that the V strom is something less than an "up"bike, which I take to mean a bike that has a large dealer network, is overpriced and has, in my experience, as many problems as other motorcycles. As in everything you purchase, some are good, some not so good.

I think the V Strom is a remarkable bike, very high value, runs with the top bikes on any street,
and looks good doing it. I"m going wear this one out and get another one.
I second this. Im now on my 15th (hold on) its probably more than that, however I have tried many "UP" market bikes. Now why do I end up with another Suzuki! As for dealers, read the reviews, hang around the dealers, speak to the customers, chat up the mechanics. If that all leads you to making a decision, your probably on the right track. Big dealerships are often an indication of being treated like like shite. Roll up looking like you walked out of some posh hotel and they are all over you, dust on your boots and oil stains on your jeans and they edge you towards the door. My local Triumph dealer had a nice little business. Every one that walked through the door was known or they made a friend of you, tea and a chat. Now big flash showroom, and you can walk around, and no eye contact, you have to corner a sales person. Mechanics out back, laughing and chatting to their fellow workers, point you to the showroom if you start asking questions.
As for the 650 being smoother than the 1000, no way! 650 at high revs is quite rough. The early 1000 admittedly was rough but not the latest versions. And as for revving a 1000, you should not have to, not with the latest versions. Before my Vstrom I had the Guzzi 1200 Stelvio, then an Aprilia Caponord 1200. The Vstrom pulls like most V twins Harley excepted, compared with a 3 or 4 cylinder the 3 or 4 will pull from much lower revs without lugging. The twin need more revs from a start but the nature of the V twin gives it its character, driving out of a bend using the torque and power lower down the rev range, rougher than a 4 but an engine with a soul.
Now a few cheap points with Suzuki are some non weather proof connectors, no horn or headlight relay, not many stainless fasteners, fly by wire. Nothing there that would put me off. The chassis work, suspension good, engines top notch, reliability ok. With all my Suzuki bikes I had a wheel oil seal go on one, a Burgman 400 scooter CVT gave up after one of the most horrendous commutes home from London, 30 miles never above 10mph, terrorist activity closed the bridges.
Few of my other bikes have got close, few other dealers have got close, and prices are competitive if not better.
 

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As greywolf says, your voltages are way low. That problem has to be fixed first. Low voltage can have a really big effect on how these things run. Some bikes will be worse than others. Before I figured out my Vee had a voltage issue ( that was easy, it quit on me in rush hour with 5 lanes of traffic in each direction..), I had battled some poor running issues. Those magically went mostly away after fixing the charging system.

Back to your report about previous owner having valves looked at by a shop. I am thinking it never ran right after that, and that is part of why it was sold. I am very suspicious of the valve/cam timing.
According to the previous owner, it ran like this ever since he got it.
 

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No he got it from a dealership used
Bummer.....this is all starting to make sense, unfortunately you have gotten screwed over it appears. Did you take a test ride of the bike before you bought it?
 

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Yes of course. Like I mentioned, it rides fine. But was running rich at idle so I swapped the ECM to fix it. Used ECM off of an '06 model. it's a post service bulletin ECM. The new ECM fixed running rich but presented massive loss of power at low rpm.
 

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Pull your magneto cover. Yes, drain the oil. If you want to reuse it, just drain into a clean container. Not worth fighting the bike by leaning it over, just drain the oil. I have a feeling it will be down for a bit anyway. I would bet you will find the magnets with unequal spacing. I would also remove the stator, assuming the front shows all the poles equal color with no darker spots, and inspect the backside of it. Three bolts to do that, and they usually look worse in the rear in the area near where the 3 wires exit away from the poles.

If you have to replace the stator, the OEM part comes with a new crankshaft position sensor. Which is one more part you can check off the list as a possible cause of your other problems!
 

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2003 DL1000
28,000 miles Purchased with 27,000
JB welded magnets right after I got the bike home from the PO. no charging issues after that, new voltmeter keeps it monitored.

When I went to place my bike in winter storage last year I noticed I was out of fuel, I rolled it to the gas station filled it up to notice it pouring fuel all over me upon arriving. I let the gas drain figured it was an old and I'd just replace it before the next riding season. Two months I break down the bike to find its a pinhole (turn out multiple pinholes) rusted into my gas tank.

I had the tank braised but more small holes continued to appear after each reassembly. after this I used some redkote to reseal the tank and popped the fuel tank back on. While I had the bike apart I

-Replaced the old air filter with a new K&N
-Replaced the spark plugs with new iridium plugs gapped correctly (Turns out PO already had some in but I replaced them anyway)
-forks
-front breaks

after reassembling the bike I seemed to have no power at all after 4k RPM, I did a flow test and turned out be wayyyy under preforming after this I toke apart the fuel pump and made the bypass hole to find more rust than I could ever imagine, huge clumps I mean it was packed tight so after I cleaned all the rust out with carb cleaner and passed about 2 gallons of gas through the tank and the pump with very small amounts of rust still passing at the end of the two gallons I attached the external fuel filter and gave it a shot.

at first it ran great but now I had a miss or stumble sort of feeling at 4k RPM sometimes as high as 5k I would feel it occasionally:crying2:. I then rode two up for about 20 miles before the bike completely lost all power I had to balance the cluch to lurch forward at 1k-2k rpm trying to get home for a few miles before coming to a stop.

I assumed I had clogged up the fuel filter with the rust but after testing it it seemed to be preforming decently, I replaced it anyway with a new filter and reseatted the front boot to a level that seemed more firm that before, tightened it far enough to close the clamp and buttoned it all back up.

Now it seems to be running better but the miss is still there and I can't be sure but it seems like it hardly happens at all before the first mile is passed. but at 4k I still experience a miss every few seconds and very rarely as high as 5k I just don't understand why this wasn't a problem before with all that rust jammed in the filter and now after my service im having this issue.


Any help would be greatly appreciated one of my fears is I may have bent my gap on my sparkplug when reinstalling I dont remember having an issue with this but I do remember it was such a pain replacing without the Suzuki spark plug tool. could a bad gap cause a miss like this, in my head it would be causing an issue at all RPM ranges if that was the case. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Sorry for the wall of text. Im planning 2,000 mile trip and im very worried to take this bike so far away from home with this issue.
 
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