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Hello everyone, new owner of a 2005 DL1000 here. She's got 26.7k miles. Bought it 3 days ago. My issue is that the bike runs rich. Not after riding on the highway or when the tank is full or empty or anything specific. It runs rich all the time. The idle is weird as well. Goes up and down between 1300 and 2500 initially. Once warm, idle stabilizes (as expected) and starts jumping between 1000ish and 1300ish. Runs 1300 for half a second, then runs at 900 for 1.5 seconds, then jumps back up as if it just woke up. Then the same thing happens right away. My temp gauge never goes up to 3 bars (which I thought was the correct running temp). Assuming running rich is keeping the temps down. I read somewhere it may have to do with the hose that goes to the map sensor. I checked the hoses and cleaned the connections. Everything seemed to be in order.

One odd thing I found was that someone replaced the wet breather filter with a red sponge. Not sure what it is. But I found bits of very small pieces of sponge in the airbox. Cleaned it out. One last thing is that there are two hoses that go to the throttle bodies (probably to sync them) and those are plugged with 2 screws. Didn't seem stock so I'm letting you know.

The previous owner bought it from a dealership who told him it had an ecu flash but someone messed something up and it runs rich now. So I talked to my ECU flash guy who said the programs he use don't work on the V-Strom which leads me to think it's something else. The bike came with a PCIII, not connected. Apparently the prev. owner tried a couple different maps, nothing took. So he gave up. Like I said, I don't think it has to do with the ECU but the bike thinks it has too much air when it doesn't for some reason.

Looking forward to some insights on what I should check/do.
Thanks!
Forgot to mention that it hesitates at 2500rpmish when moving. Not necessarily a backfire but a loss of power.
 

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Without checking the fuel/air mixture with a wideband O2 sensor you have no idea if it is rich or lean. Rich fuel mixture won't make the bike run cold, that is handled by the thermostat in the cooling system. Two bars may be ok, some bikes are different in how many "bars" show while in the normal range.

The surging of rpms you mention are an indication of a vacuum leak. I would very carefully inspect the throttle body boots where they clamp onto the throttle bodies. Would not be surprised to see them loose and one or more have slipped so there is a vacuum leak. Which actually makes a lean running condition.

If the throttle body boots are ok, and there are NO vacuum lines unhooked, I would be suspicious of the throttle position sensor. Just install and adjust a new one, old ones really cannot be tested for good/bad. After that do a good throttle body synchronization, set the idle to 1300 and I bet most of your problems will be gone!

PLEASE get rid of the foam (sponge?) air cleaner! Notorious for breaking down over time and releasing foam bits. Put a paper or cloth based one in.
 

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Without checking the fuel/air mixture with a wideband O2 sensor you have no idea if it is rich or lean. Rich fuel mixture won't make the bike run cold, that is handled by the thermostat in the cooling system. Two bars may be ok, some bikes are different in how many "bars" show while in the normal range.
Oh it's absolutely rich. The exhaust smell is horribly rich. I own 5 bikes at this point, nothing smells as bad as this guy.
 

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A Yoshimura or Teka box can be used to alter the stock fueling. That's probably what was done to your ECM. See Yosh Box Tips

Except in stop and go traffic, a 2002-2012 DL1000 should show 2 bars once warmed up.
 

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Do you guys know where I can find a yosh/teka box? I searched on ebay but couldn't find with anything. Also does it show the specs it is currently at so I can return it to stock? I can use the power commander later to figure it out.

Or is there a way to undo what a yosh/Teka box has done via a power commander
 

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You've hit upon the big problems, finding a box and returning the values to stock. I don't have an answer to those.

If I were you, I'd get a Power Commander that will override the ECM settings and get it dyno tuned to get each area the proper fueling.
 

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Thank you for your response. I already have a Power Commander but it's not plugged in. Instead of guesstimating using the power commander, I think I will order a used ECM from ebay and swap the unit out. Once the bike runs fine, then I'll start tuning with the power commander.
 

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Oh it's absolutely rich. The exhaust smell is horribly rich. I own 5 bikes at this point, nothing smells as bad as this guy.
If it is misfiring, or combustion cycle is shorted due to flame out from a lean mixture.......you have raw fuel going out the exhaust. I have pointed out what I can. Good luck!
 

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My ECM has part number 06G60 on it. Can I swap this with a 06G70 or 06G71 or does it have to be ? Those are the ones I could find on ebay. I've found some links where people have done it. Figured I'd ask before ordering this part.
 

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So I just talked to the guy I bought the bike from and apparently the dealership he took the bike to tried to fix the ECM via their yosh box. Tried to dyno tune it with the power commander as well. Nothing worked. I will check the tps adjustment tomorrow.

Would a bad tps or a tps out of adjustment cause my issue? Idling rough and running rich all the time? All I've found on the forum is running bad once warmed up.
 

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A TPS problem can make the bike run badly or cut out at idle or, rarely, at a speed where the throttle might spend most of its time, but not across the entire rev range. It won't make it run rich. It sounds like the Yosh box was misused and the settings could not be returned to stock to use the PC properly.
 

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A TPS problem can make the bike run badly or cut out at idle or, rarely, at a speed where the throttle might spend most of its time, but not across the entire rev range. It won't make it run rich. It sounds like the Yosh box was misused and the settings could not be returned to stock to use the PC properly.
Thanks for your reply. I was able to get a used 2006+ ECM with a 30 day refund option. I will still check the TPS to confirm since I have the bike stripped to the airbox, I can play with the screws. As far as I got, the lower screw of the tps can be accessed with the tank on via the side using an extension and security torx bit. but the top one can't? I am planning to leave the top one loose and play with the lower screw to adjust and tighten from the side.
 

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So I guess it was the ecu after all, thanks greywolf. Got a used 2006 (my bike is a 2005) year ecu off of ebay. Not rich anymore and idles fine. But as soon as I start letting go of the clutch, it acts like I'm holding the brakes. It just starts to lose power and eventually dies. I can fully let go of the clutch by trying to keep the bike at 3-4k rpm. At this point, the bike will creep forward at 1k rpm, even though I expect it to be at at least 3k. And about once a second, it'll pretend to come back to life and lurch forward. It'll also misfire a couple times as well. Thoughts?

I'm thinking foul spark plugs from running rich for so long.
 

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So after getting a used ECU on eBay, my running rich problem seems to be solved, the bike doesn't smell bad anymore. However, it still acts weird, doesn't idle well and falls on its face as soon as I let go of the clutch. My mechanic buddy said it's likely the TPS and since it's well known that the TPS on these go bad, I'm going to get another one. For 2005, Partzilla.com shows the part number 13580-02F00. Is this the right part number? I looked on ebay for a used unit but eBay prices are higher than brand new. What's up with that?
 

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Yes, I am pretty sure that is the correct part number. The lower one is the main throttle bodies, and that is the number for that one. The upper one is the secondary throttle plates, some get confused by that. $78.75 on Partzilla. I can tell you that these prices are not very much above dealer cost.
 

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So now that I got a new tps in, idle is fixed but the bike still falls on its face under load. I mean as I take off, as soon as I am fully off the clutch, I have very little power. If I give max throttle, it gets going but sounds like it's on a single cylinder. When I pull the clutch in, back to normal operation, idles and revs fine. I am definitely thinking it's the coils now as it is similar to the symptoms I had on my FZ1 when that had a bad coil. Ordered a set of coils. We'll see if that's it.
 

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A few thoughts:

Before fiddling with coils, you should check the spark plug cavities for dirty moisture. There is a drain channel for each that can clog preventing moisture behind the rubber boot seal from drying out. Silicone di-electric grease will soften the boots and reduce the risk of a high voltage short to engine.

My 2002 is very fussy about idle speed. Set below 1200 rpm it really lugs. Set above 1275 and idle speed hangs high, 1350+ rpm, after a run on the Interstate. 1225-1250 rpm = perfection.

You mentioned in a previous post that you were going to tighten only the bottom TPS screw. Also, the new TPS came with a new vacuum seal. If you didn't get the old one out - doubling them up, or if you don't tighten both mounting screws, you may be dealing with a pesky vacuum leak.

It's a real pain getting the TPS set up so the little bar in front of -COO in dealer mode goes high at 1700 to 1900 rpm. When you get it all right: TPS, idle setting, STPS synch...your Vee will have enough "start off" torque to climb a tree. Assuming there's enough traction.
 

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Thanks for your reply Austin. I actually did leave the seal of the original TPS in there and had to go back and remove it. Both bolts of the TPS are torqued and the value is set right. I am going between bad coils and clogged fuel filter at this point. The bike runs bad until 5k rpm and then comes to life. I already have new (used) coils in the garage so I think I'm going to try putting those on first and see if I'm lucky. If not, I'll have to dive into the fuel filter
 

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Hoping this is the right area to post this. I did a 200 mile loop today on my 2003 DL1000 with some off road in the snow. I hit a fairly big hole at slow speed but I do not believe I bottomed out the bike. On the road home the bike seemed louder almost a knock sound under hard acceleration. Or the sound you would here with an open air box under hard acceleration. The bike ran great it just seemed louder. Seems like the sound is coming from the engine area not from the exhaust. I am thinking I knocked a pipe joint loose when I hit the hole in the snow. :furious:
 
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