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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I've been dealing with a metallic "tapping" (too loud to be called a "ticking") sound from the top of my front cylinder, for about 8k miles now. It does it most when it's warm, and from about 2,300-4,000 RPM, with no load (in neutral). After that, things get quiet. I put a mechanic's stethoscope all over the motor, and it seems to surly be coming from the top of the front cylinder (sound is very clear with scope on the valve cover)....in time with the motor. "taptaptaptaptap" :confused: Oh yea, it's the 1000cc 'Strom

I'm leaning towards thinking that the PO spun a bearing, and that I'm hearing the piston hitting the top of the cylinder. IF that ends up being the issue, and assuming the crank is not scarred, how much of a PITA is DIY swapping a big bearing? :headbang:

Thanks!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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If that was the case, there would be a deep knock from the crankcase and I would have expected a change by now. 8000 miles with no change more likely falls into the "they all do that" category. See http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-specific-wee-strom/8149-knock-when-warm-07s.html
It's 650 centric but people with both bikes report it. I did a poll at http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-specific-wee-strom/8770-corrected-poll-2007-dl650-owners-only.html and voted no but would have to change it. My bike has made that tapping noise for over 70,000 miles now. I'm thinking cam end float myself.

There's no way to tell for sure it's benign without a test of time in your case but chances are it is.
 

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First off. The motor comes out, the case gets split, the crankshaft pulled. Lots of work and likley time for a complete rebuild if lower rod bearing is worn out.

But, a lower end rod knock should not be loudest at the top of the head. Rod knocks typically are worse right at start up before oil pressure builds and get more quiet after that. Rod noises are down low in the ceneter of the V.

Could be cam issue, timing chain, piston slap or other top end only issues. If the rod was loose enough to let piston hit top of cylinder shit would have already started flying apart big time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
If that was the case, there would be a deep knock from the crankcase and I would have expected a change by now. 8000 miles with no change more likely falls into the "they all do that" category. See http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-specific-wee-strom/8149-knock-when-warm-07s.html
It's 650 centric but people with both bikes report it. I did a poll at http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-specific-wee-strom/8770-corrected-poll-2007-dl650-owners-only.html and voted no but would have to change it. My bike has made that tapping noise for over 70,000 miles now. I'm thinking cam end float myself.

There's no way to tell for sure it's benign without a test of time in your case but chances are it is.
Thanks greywolf! Much appreciated. Well, it's funny, now I remember my very first post on here (or one of 'em anyway). I was asking about the "ticking noise when decelerating". That was nearly 2 years and 8-9K miles ago. I was riding the bike after buying it in Denver, and was riding with no helmet on.....thus, it was pretty obvious every time I got off the throttle.

So, let me refine the description of the "tapping" noise, just in case it makes a difference to someone. It makes a fairly loud metallic tapping or rapping noise (top of front cylinder) between 2,400 and 3,900 RPM, when floating and ALSO when DEcelerating. Under load, in the same RPM range, it is quiet. Anything come to mind that could cause that noise only with no load or decelerating? :confused:

don't you just hate those "what's this noise" threads:mrgreen:....sorry about that.:yesnod:

Scott: thanks for the description of DIYing new bearings. I translated the whole thing into my language. It goes like this: "step 1- buy new motor. step 2- yank old motor out of bike. step 3- install new motor.":mrgreen:
 

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Wrist pin may make that noise. At least it would explain the noise at the top end.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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I think this accurately describes a wrist pin noise.

A wrist pin knock has a very unique sound. And this sound will be different depending on how many of the wrist pins are making the noise. If all the wrist pins are loose, this will sound like an overwhelming rattling inside the engine.

This sound is described as a double knock, because it will cause a noise at the top of the piston travel and when the piston changes direction it will make another noise. This noise is most notable when the engine is idling and the engine is also hot.

I'm leaning towards the noise being an in correct valve adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think this accurately describes a wrist pin noise.

A wrist pin knock has a very unique sound. And this sound will be different depending on how many of the wrist pins are making the noise. If all the wrist pins are loose, this will sound like an overwhelming rattling inside the engine.

This sound is described as a double knock, because it will cause a noise at the top of the piston travel and when the piston changes direction it will make another noise. This noise is most notable when the engine is idling and the engine is also hot.

I'm leaning towards the noise being an in correct valve adjustment.
Yea, it def. isn't a "double knock" and really, it doesn't sound like a "knock". I've heard "knocks" before. This is higher pitched like a "rap" or "tap" (those descriptions are exactly why I hate "what's that noise?" posts :green_lol:). It's just one "RAP" per revolution. It doesn't make a sound at idle though. Only comes on right at 2,400 and is pretty loud at 3,000 holding steady.

Valves- I've never adjusted the valves, and I'm at about 21k right now. Perhaps the PO adjusted them and left things too loose on the front. Who knows.

But again, it only makes the noise with no load, and when decelerating. Seems to me the valves would make a noise all the time?
 

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These motors originated in the TL1000S, and as all TL owners know, the TL stands for "ticks loudly". Many attribute it to the scissor gears on the cam shafts. I haven't had the valve cover on my vee off yet, so maybe Greywolf can chime in right about now with info on whether the Vees have scissor gears or not.
After all these miles, I doubt if it is something that you should worry about or leave you stranded, but I could be wrong. :biggrinjester:
 

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Vees do have scissors cam gears.
 

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Wrist pin will make more noise when the engine is coasting or does not have much of a load. A bottom end rod knock will make more noise under power.
 

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:) Hi, I have had a spun bearing on a 650 engine, and I can tell you for sure that if you had one on your 650 engine there would be no mistaking it, and unless you got very lucky you would probably be shopping for a used crank.

The top end ticking is as others have already pointed out is very probable cam related, Chain slap, wrist pins, Valves, etc. if you are concerned that it is getting to be more pronounced or constant I would suggest you consider getting your valves checked and set by someone who actually knows these engines and how set them correctly. That may or may not be your local Suzuki dealer,

Check and see if there is someone in your area that can help you out with it; If you are mechanically inclined get a Shop Service Manual and check them yourself, it is not too difficult. There are a number of threads on the forum on Valve Adjustment,

In the interim, if this is all that is wrong with the bike, ride and enjoy it,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair
 
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