Did a chain/sprocket change from stock improve your ride?

4020 Views 21 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Houstrom46*, 8 mo ago

xtian

Discussion Starter · 8 mo ago

My 2014 has 14k miles. The sprockets are not deformed and 20-pitch length is looking good. I just have two links which are noticeably kinked--not so much they are jumping the rear sprocket, but just enough to get my attention that I start working on figuring it out.

Reading some of the posts here about chain replacement:

stock chain and sprocket kit, part number 27000-31810
gear ratios; stock (17 / 41) or something else
screw-on master link
upgrade to 530, or not
Chain Tools
Sprocket calculator
146 reposts of SVRACING Chain kit special (2011-2014)

I'm inclined to go for OEM kit but a few posts gave me some things to consider:

choose DID chain and use it's better chain tool with their ZJ master links
buy steel sprockets, change rear gear ratio to 43T from sprocketcenter.com
rubber-cushion on front sprocket (was that stock?)
screw-on master links

Anyone care to share a change from stock which improved your ride? (or a change which didn't have the result you expected?)

Bonus

Anyone had the bright idea to extend the life of your chain by replacing a kinked link with a masterlink? Vinnie shortened his new chain by accident, and used second masterlink to fix. Why not use the same technique to replace one or two kinked links? ~$15-30 vs. $200-300

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1 - 20 of 22 Posts

TinMan88

· #2 · 8 mo ago (Edited)

Think safety first. A broken chain can wreck your motor or throw you to the pavement at speed. Any good 0 ring chain is better than a kink. Grab the bad link with slip joint pliers. Twist the bad link to make it straight. If it feels crunchy, you are on borrowed time.

Some brands do not have screw swaged master links. If you need that, EK is the likely vendor. RK is also top tier.
At 100 HP, a 530 is not required . I prefer Suzuki CS sprocket. Sun Star or JT rear at 43 or 44T as factory 41 is redickulusness. Make adjustment for bigger rear sprocket. I order 120 links and cut to fit.

I replaced my DID Xring chain % sprockets yesterday. 20K miles. Saw one kink - until I removed it. Had many more on the garage floor. Junk. Clatter noise that 650s exhibit is gone.

Vinnie repaired his new chain and saved his adz. Vinnie knows when to replace his kinked worn out chain with a new one. Thank you

Reactions: 1

Ellwood

· #3 · 8 mo ago

Just replaced chain and sprockets on my 2005 Vee and will share my experience. Stock gearing is 17-41 with a 525 chain. Stock gearing seemed a little too tall for low speed, never seemed to be able to find the fight gear when cruising around 15 to 30 MPH so went with 16-43 steel sprockets. This gear change greatly improved ride quality in this range but caused it to be revving uncomfortably high above 65 mph. No one locally had a 41T rear in stock but did have 17T front so I went with that. Problem here was new chain was too short so ordered a 41T from sprocketcenter and am now back to stock ratio. Would like to try 16-41 but too lazy to change front sprocket again.Will probably wait until this chain wears out and try it then.I guess stock ratio was not really that bad.
As for the chain I got a 525 EK X-ring with a screw on master link. Highly recommend this type of master link as it was very easy to install with nothing more than a 10mm wrench. I Have a chain tool which will push pins out but not a tool for a rivet type master link so this saved me buying a new tool. That's my 2 cents.

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Reactions: 1

PeteW

· #4 · 8 mo ago

Learn to use the chain tools.

I have used screw in links, they work just fine but the EK chains those work with simply didn't last as long as DID chains with press links do.

As others have said, you can go down to 525 and the ride should be smoother. I'm not generally noticing a difference between my 1000 and my 650 though so I can't say it's a big difference. Chain in good condition is the critical thing.

Rolex

· #5 · 8 mo ago

I dropped to a 16t, I love my dirt and the 16 works better than the 17 in most situations.

I have a cruise control fitted and I found I was setting it when in 5th gear and was never using 6th so the 16 worked there too.

This is my first post on the 16t

V2 + 16t = true love | StromTrooper

Reactions: 1

PlugnPlay

· #6 · 8 mo ago

Rolex said:
I dropped to a 16t, I love my dirt and the 16 works better than the 17 in most situations.

I have a cruise control fitted and I found I was setting it when in 5th gear and was never using 6th so the 16 worked there too.

This is my first post on the 16t

V2 + 16t = true love | StromTrooper

+1, 16t lover on a '14 DL1000

Sexyman

· #7 · 8 mo ago

I do sprockets when needed. I find chain needs switch first over sprockets. Pretty much check and monitor.

I did roughly 2k with two sticky links. Not suggested, but, no option due to Covid. Just couldn't find a replacement. Could I have gone further? Yea. For sure.

dwfree

· #8 · 8 mo ago

The 20 pitch service length max is a pretty good gauge of time to replace a chain. Always install new sprockets with a new chain. The front can be flipped, but the dish in the rear prevents flipping it. 525 is enough chain for the Strom - my 1290 Super Duke got 20k mi with a 525. DID chain is worth the $. JT steel sprockets are my pick.

If you don't do much 70-80mph riding I guess lowering the gearing would be ok. Stock gearing was fine for gravel roads. If you need low speed then do it, just expect hi speed cruising to kinda suck.

Millennium_Wee_Falcon

· #9 · 8 mo ago

After replacing sprockets and chain unfortunately in my area I could only find a set for a SV650, normal steel sprocket in front, no rubber, and it improved the noise/whine levels dramatically, and so far no noticeable extra vibrations of any sort, the sizes is stock 15/47, where I had a 43 on before, and she pulls like a dream, but on slow speed she's a bit sluggish 2007 model)

Griff

· #10 · 8 mo ago

I have a 2016 which is the same as the 2014 mentioned. I have over 30,000 kms on the OEM chain and I will replace the chain set as a complete unit when necessary. I am wondering if the OP has an issue with the standard gearing ? I certainly don't, and it has proved appropriate for most applications, mostly on the road, solo or two up.

On the kinks they may not always indicate a problem with the link. Sometimes it could indicate a hardened oring or plates that have been compressed too much against the orings during manufacture. I have come across kinks like this on other bikes at low mileage. I have monitored them, but in most cases the related chains have continued on to a full life. In the worst scenario the lube around the pin will have dried out. I did find a couple of such incidences on a kinked chain when I replaced it and undid the stiff link. I found just some wear on the pin, but it was nowhere near total failure.

nvr2old

· #11 · 8 mo ago

I run a 17 front(stock) and 43 rear. This makes starting out slightly easier. Freeway riding only adds about 200 RPM. Works well for me.

Reactions: 1

TinMan88

· #12 · 8 mo ago

Griff said:
I have a 2016 which is the same as the 2014 mentioned. I have over 30,000 kms on the OEM chain and I will replace the chain set as a complete unit when necessary. I am wondering if the OP has an issue with the standard gearing ? I certainly don't, and it has proved appropriate for most applications, mostly on the road, solo or two up.

On the kinks they may not always indicate a problem with the link. Sometimes it could indicate a hardened oring or plates that have been compressed too much against the orings during manufacture. I have come across kinks like this on other bikes at low mileage. I have monitored them, but in most cases the related chains have continued on to a full life. In the worst scenario the lube around the pin will have dried out. I did find a couple of such incidences on a kinked chain when I replaced it and undid the stiff link. I found just some wear on the pin, but it was nowhere near total failure.

Its all good... until its not. There was just a post here last week from a fellow that had his bike stolen - because he smashed a hole in his case from chain failure. Left it on the side of the road looking for a tow truck.

Question? How can anyone set the chain slack when kinks are wadding up the proper length? Thats just for starters.

Reactions: 3

xtian

Discussion Starter · #13 · 8 mo ago

3

TinMan88 said:
Twist the bad link to make it straight. If it feels crunchy, you are on borrowed time.

That's new to me. I did as you suggest. I got a pair of channel pliers and moved a good link first, just to get an idea of how much force to apply. Then I tried this on the kinked link. It won't budge with similar force.

Griff said:
Sometimes it could indicate a hardened oring or plates that have been compressed too much against the orings during manufacture.

Maybe this is the case. When I bought the bike last year I didn't notice this one bum link. I've put 5k miles on it so far, but like I said, it's getting time to fix it.

I don't have any beef with the stock setup, but I also don't have any recent experience with other bikes/gear ratios. Listening to the love for 16/41 and 17/43, I think I could have some fun using the current chain, current rear 41T and buying a 16T from sprocketcenter ($30) and clip-type masterlink ($15). Test it around town for the weekend. Give me an idea if I like the combo. Then replace the whole kit.

And just because we like pictures...

Wheel Tire Bicycle Crankset Automotive tire

Bicycle tire Tire Automotive tire Tread Bicycle fork

The x-ring is still there...

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber

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Reactions: 2

TinMan88

· #14 · 8 mo ago

Great video footage. You may do as you choose but you just demonstrated why you are risking a bad outcome. I am not going to endorse using defective parts. If the chain had 1400 miles use, it's still junk. Thanks so much for your participation regarding this evaluation.

About ratios. 16/41 is near identical to 17/44. You did not express the intended use but in top gear the bike is doing over 80 at 5ooo. Redline, is 9ooo. How high a speed do you require and how rapidly do you want to accelerate? The bike won't pull redline with stock ratio so it is a given to +2 or 3 on the rear. I run 17/43. I can cruise on the freeway in 5th. All day long

Griff

· #15 · 8 mo ago

xtian said:
That's new to me. I did as you suggest. I got a pair of channel pliers and moved a good link first, just to get an idea of how much force to apply. Then I tried this on the kinked link. It won't budge with similar force.

Maybe this is the case. When I bought the bike last year I didn't notice this one bum link. I've put 5k miles on it so far, but like I said, it's getting time to fix it.

I don't have any beef with the stock setup, but I also don't have any recent experience with other bikes/gear ratios. Listening to the love for 16/41 and 17/43, I think I could have some fun using the current chain, current rear 41T and buying a 16T from sprocketcenter ($30) and clip-type masterlink ($15). Test it around town for the weekend. Give me an idea if I like the combo. Then replace the whole kit.

And just because we like pictures...

View attachment 307921

View attachment 307922

The x-ring is still there...

View attachment 307923

Yes, that link is a bit too stiff. Just curious. Is the link still that stiff after a ride long enough to get the chain heated up ?

xtian

Discussion Starter · #16 · 8 mo ago

Griff said:
Just curious. Is the link still that stiff after a ride long enough to get the chain heated up?

Good question. I'm hoping to take a ~300 mile (RT) motocamping trip upstate to the Catskills this weekend. I'll make a note to check and report.

"You did not express the intended ... How high a speed do you require and how rapidly do you want to accelerate?

As far as riding preferences, I'm not sure how they translate. My primary fun is 2-3 spring trips and 2-3 fall trips upstate for 3-days of camping and fishing (~100 lbs of luggage and gear). So that's three hours on the highway 50-75 MPH 5th & 6th gear, then fun twisties in 2nd & 3rd gears for three hours. I guess for this I want good gas mileage in 5th and 6th gears.

Other than doing laps around Oyster Bay, I'm practicing my road skills MotoJitsu style. First and second gear low speed maneuvers (figure-eights, cone weave, etc). I have no clue how gear ratios translate to more grip.

gearingcommander.com shows both the 16:41 and 17:43 have very similar RPM characteristics, but how does that translate to my two stated preferences?

And here's the trick. gearingcommander's calculator shows both 16:41 and 17:43 (plus stock) take 116 links. Since the front sprocket is 1/2 the price of the rear, I'm thinking for $50 I can test my preferences before I invest $200-300 on new chain and sprocket set, and have some fun at the same time.

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TinMan88

· #17 · 8 mo ago

Anyone talked to you about applying torsion forces on chain side plates? Yield strength is measured rating by pulling forces not twisting forces. Have you ever bent morning wood downward to relieve yourself? Nuf said.

Rolex

· #18 · 8 mo ago

The reason I do the front first is it's much easier and quicker than the rear and if you don't like it swapping back is again easy.

On some bikes I end up doing front and rear but test ridding is the only way to know what you want, we are all different.

Reactions: 1

TinMan88

· #19 · 8 mo ago

Rolex said:
The reason I do the front first is it's much easier and quicker than the rear and if you don't like it swapping back is again easy.

On some bikes I end up doing front and rear but test ridding is the only way to know what you want, we are all different.

That is so true Rolex. The data is there and we have defined what is needed to make reasoned choice. I prefer changing the rear sprocket as the adjustment is a finer split and to me it it important to use the biggest circle to reduce the deflection on the chain pins. The 17T stays, but thats just me. I have 3 rear sprockets for my SV1000 in 1 tooth increments. I worked to find the best outcome and I'm not left wondering .

Reactions: 1

Rolex

· #20 · 8 mo ago

When I did my 450f I wanted to go down on the front so if I was going to do a long road ride I could easily go back up, even on the side of the road if I wanted.

I did do the rear too, I made up my own numbers so I knew what each sprocket change would give me, now we get gearing commander to help with those decisions.

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