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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

just received my datel volt meter

2 questions:

1- what is the proper cable gauge I should be using for the install?
2- Does it need to be fused or installed to my Beaver box, or directly to the battery?
 

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I have not installed that voltmeter, but...

You can run small wires. The voltmeter (like all good voltmeters) has a high input impedance and therefore draw almost no current.

But... It does draw some current so I would not recommend attaching it straight to the battery because it, of course, will pull juice from the battery all the time.

As far as where to connect; put it on a circuit that is 1) switched on with the key and 2) doesn't have a heavy load like the headlights on it..
 

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Hello,

just received my datel volt meter

2 questions:

1- what is the proper cable gauge I should be using for the install?
2- Does it need to be fused or installed to my Beaver box, or directly to the battery?
Wire size is not critical. 18 ga. is heavy enough. I don't recall where I connected mine, just that it's only on with the ignition.
 

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Although that volt meter draws minuscule current, it still needs to be switched. As said, 18ga or larger wire should be sufficient, if connected inline with the battery - although I use 16.

I use a manual switch for mine as I like to know the voltage without the ignition on - for diagnostic purposes, which is the purpose of the meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Although that volt meter draws minuscule current, it still needs to be switched. As said, 18ga or larger wire should be sufficient, if connected inline with the battery - although I use 16.

I use a manual switch for mine as I like to know the voltage without the ignition on - for diagnostic purposes, which is the purpose of the meter.
can you recommend a switch?
 

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I don't get it. Why "switch" a volt meter, as long as it's on the ignition. what's the need? The switch gives you something else that can fail. The only "switch" on my volt meter is the ignition key.
 

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I don't get it. Why "switch" a volt meter, as long as it's on the ignition. what's the need? The switch gives you something else that can fail. The only "switch" on my volt meter is the ignition key.
It's useful to know what your battery's standing voltage is at. 12.9 is the maximum, 11.4 at the minimum (assuming no failed cells).

If your battery can only hold 12.3v, you'll probably notice that it's going to be hard to start. Can be useful to know stuff like that when wondering why your having starting issues as it's not always the battery's fault and it can help with the diagnosing.

Saves you from having to pull out a multimeter....
 

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I don't get it. Why "switch" a volt meter, as long as it's on the ignition. what's the need? The switch gives you something else that can fail. The only "switch" on my volt meter is the ignition key.
I agree..
Generally speaking volt meters use a very low amount of current to measure volts (a few mA at worse cast).
 

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I agree.. (with sweetcreek)Generally speaking volt meters use a very low amount of current to measure volts (a few mA at worse cast).
It seems that you too, have missed the point. Here's a refresher.
I use a manual switch for mine as I like to know the voltage without the ignition on - for diagnostic purposes, which is the purpose of the meter.
It's useful to know what your battery's standing voltage is at. 12.9 is the maximum, 11.4 at the minimum (assuming no failed cells).

If your battery can only hold 12.3v, you'll probably notice that it's going to be hard to start. Can be useful to know stuff like that when wondering why your having starting issues as it's not always the battery's fault and it can help with the diagnosing.

Saves you from having to pull out a multimeter....
 

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It seems that you too, have missed the point. Here's a refresher.
True..I stand corrected. So a switch is indeed needed in that case.

But if two people misunderstood that, perhaps the explanation was a bit confusing :mod2_stuart:

If hot wiring is done from the battery a fuse must be added in series (or through a fuse box). You really don't want the wires to fry on a short.
 

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I hope noone minds me jumping in here with a question also.

I am in the planning stage of installing the Datel voltmeter. I'll have it switched, and bought this rocker from Gama: 66A8-02 Waterproof Mini Off-On Rocker Switch

At 12VDC, the switch is rated at 10amp. So I am planning on a 15 amp inline fuse on the battery side of it. Obviously the Datel is only drawing a fraction of that; Ozart said he's using a 1 amp glass fuse.

Not 100% on how this should work. Would I use both fuses, each before its matched device?
i.e.
Battery--->15 amp fuse--->switch--->1 amp fuse--->voltmeter
 

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A switch doesn't draw any current to speak of. Its current rating is for how much it can pass through. A switched connection to the battery would go battery->1A or 2A fuse->switch->voltmeter. Keep the fuse as close to the battery as practical as the wire from the battery to the fuse is not protected.
 

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A switch doesn't draw any current to speak of. Its current rating is for how much it can pass through. A switched connection to the battery would go battery->1A or 2A fuse->switch->voltmeter. Keep the fuse as close to the battery as practical as the wire from the battery to the fuse is not protected.
Makes sense. Have learned a lot from many of your other posts as well. Thanks.
 
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