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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Let me start out this thread by saying - I am not recommending anyone do this, I'm not even sure how well it will work. The intent of this thread is to document putting a car tire on my 2004 DL1000 and actually provide some pictures and information so that when people search they might find some dimension information with pictures. If you want to comment about how this is not a good idea, there are plenty of other threads to muck up. If you are interested in measurements or pictures - ask away. It won't get tested until april or may due to me living in MN.

My bike has 3/4" drop rear links in it.

For starters, I did a bunch of research on what tires would fit on a DL1000. There are a number of people who claim to be running 205/50r17 and 205/55r17 with decent results and hardly a picture or any follow up information to be found. The 205/50r17 appeals to me because it is a fairly standard size and you can get something other than basic tires in that size. I decided on a Riken Raptor because on another forum/on another bike a guy had used them extensively and was pleased with their results on a motorcycle that is similar in size to a DL1000 - maybe a bit heavier.

So I ordered one up from tire rack and picked it up at their local warehouse - $74. I also ordered up a spare DL1000 rear wheel off ebay for $80 because I want to be able to swap between the stock tire and the car tire easily. Both for comparison and just in case the car tire thing sucks I don't want to mess up the MC tire that I am currently not that satisfied with (Conti Trail Attack 3 that now has about 1500 miles of freeway commuting on it).

So for starters - couple pictures of the tire and a stock one. The ebay wheel gets here tomorrow so hopefully I'll have a mounted picture this weekend. For the moment there is no point in max width measurements since putting a tire this size on a 4" wide rim is going to make it somewhat narrower
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I also darkside my vstrom 650. I have had good luck with bf goodrich comp 2. 205 size. The 205 size it hink fits better in the 1000. But ive put 30k on darkside, and just came back from a cross country ride on it. No issues.
 

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oldjeep,
I'd be very interested in the weight differences between the 205 and the 'standard' 150 rear tire.

Thanks in advance :cool:
 

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According to superbuytires.com the tire weight of a Riken Raptor 205/50-17 is 24lbs

According to Chaparral the tire weight of a Shinko 705 150/70-17 is 16.9lbs

According to Walmart.com the tire weight of a Achilles ATR Economist 175/55/-17 is 18lbs

I do not know if these numbers are accurate but they do not seem unreasonable.
 

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Many thanks for the weight info !!! :cool:

Since I'm leaning towards the Achilles ATR Economist 175/55/-17 at 18lbs, it's nice to know that it's only ~1 lb heavier.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The new wheel showed up before lunch so I figured that instead of eat I would get the dried out old Shinko off of it. 15 minutes later I've got a rim that is going to need some cleaning after work. The rubbers are junk, so I'll replace them eventually. I'll also put new bearings in it eventually and for now just plan on using my existing hub/spacer and sprocket and decide if I want complete sets on both later. Need to clean all the tape goo off the rotor and see if it is true - looks decent enough visually.

As you can see off to the side I decided to try tie wrapping the new tire. I've never had an issue putting a tire on with just some soap and spoons, but with the width of the tire related to the width of the rim I think it might help. I'll find out tonight or tomorrow.
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Discussion Starter #7
According to superbuytires.com the tire weight of a Riken Raptor 205/50-17 is 24lbs

According to Chaparral the tire weight of a Shinko 705 150/70-17 is 16.9lbs

According to Walmart.com the tire weight of a Achilles ATR Economist 175/55/-17 is 18lbs

I do not know if these numbers are accurate but they do not seem unreasonable.
That's good info. Once I get the tire mounted I'll just weigh the wheel with my 150/70r17 conti trail attack and the new wheel for a total tire/wheel weigh comparison.
 

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Also a good time to think about maybe replacing the valve stem. New rubber ones are cheap as chips at less then $1.50 each. A $4.99 valve stem puller form Advance Auto will make it a lot easier to install.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also a good time to think about maybe replacing the valve stem. New rubber ones are cheap as chips at less then $1.50 each. A $4.99 valve stem puller form Advance Auto will make it a lot easier to install.
That goes without saying - I never reuse valve stems car/bike/trailer
 

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And, dependent upon the level of frigidity where you live!!
quote
The Achilles ATR-K Economist tire is a sporty high performance tire that provides your vehicle with style, performance, comfort and safety at an economical price. This makes this tire an excellent choice for every-day driving and commuting all-year round in climates that dont get freezing temperatures or snow. It is an excellent three season tire and handles heavy rain and flooded roads easily. This tire has twin offset center ribs are designed to deliver a smooth and responsive driving experience while the rest of the tread, including the shoulder of the tire has deep grooves, multiple edges and additional sipes. These features provide excellent grip. In addition, the ATR-K Economist has low rolling resistance for better fuel economy.
unquote
FYI - They are made in Indonesia, so that warning sounds compound related.
 

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What does being made in Indonesia have to do with anything?

The Achilles ATR Economist is not rated as a mud and snow tire that is why it us considered a "3 season" tire. If it is run in freezing temperatures nothing catastrophic will happen. Many sport tires are 3 season" and do not carry the M&S rating. Its not intrinsic to the Achilles tires or its manufacturing location.
 

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I went to the darkside as a winter experiment, looking for snow & ice traction, the extra weight of the car tire helps in low traction takeoff, when I first went to the darkside, my Vee was lowered 3/4" as well, the 205/50 is about an eighth of an inch shorter than the stock 150/70. wasn't long before I upgraded my suspension to WP and put the stock links back in
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't drive in the snow - period. Once the temps get down to 32 I'm done at the first sign of moisture.
Continuing on. So the tie wrap thing around the bare tire didn't do a thing for me other than make it near impossible to get the second bead even started. So I took them off and tried just muscling the tire on - which is impossible since you are compressing the tire down to the 4" rim and simultaneously trying to get it into the drop. So I tie wrapped around the tire and rim and used my knee to apply 185lbs and tighten them up so that they were about 1/2 inch from the rim. The toughest part was getting the outer bead half way on and then compressing the tire with one foot to get it to drop into the drop in the rim. Once that was accomplished it went on.

Initial thoughts - I'd like a little wider rim. I've put 37x13.5 mud tires on 6" rims before but they have a lot taller sidewalls. However I don't think it is going to come flying off. So I pumped it up to 35 and I'll check it in a few hours and see if it is holding air properly before doing anything else.
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Discussion Starter #14
Some measurements
The stock tire 25 3/8" tall with no load
The Riken 205 25 1/8" tall with no load

The stock tire - 6 1/16 wide at the widest point
The Riken 7.5" wide at the tread. Normally the widest spot would be the side of the casing, but the narrow rim sucks everything in tight.

Weights will have to wait a few days, didn't have a scale in the back

Seems to fit fine. Chain clearance is 1/4 or better - hard to tell for sure since the cush rubber is so worn out in the rim that the sprocket hub moves a bit. Plenty of clearance everywhere else including the centerstand.

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Even the more narrow 175 was a little stubborn to get the second beat over the rim. I used two 9" tire levers and got the tire on about 2/3rds of way then when I ran out of room. I could not push the tire into the drop by hand as the tire was too stiff. So I used the bead breaker to push the tire down into the drop center to give me some room then easily flipped the rest of the tire bead over the rim.
 

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Seem like the internet weights were fairly accurate:

7.1lbs internet vs 6.44 actual

It would be interesting weight each wheel plain to see if there are variations.
 
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