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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Dark side – that is epidemic

People were claiming many positive factors running a car tire as their rear one on VStroms. For me the most significant was the economic aspect. A d/s rear tire in Alberta costs $150 - $200 and lasts ~ 20k km. I am speaking for my experience, others will have theirs. There is Shinko of course, which can be had for $110 and will last ~ 12K km. I do run gravel a lot, there is one tangle though, before I even get there I have to ride 500 to 700 km one way on a straight hwy with no turns. Many rides are fishing rides ~300 km one end to a creek, no turns again. So all my tires got flat center and side parts looked like the day the tire was mounted.
Many dark side riders use General Exclaim UHP 205/55ZR17, me too, but I found the tire myself, rather than copied some one else’s experience.
How did I mount it? Quite easy actually. I did it myself, no shop, no special tools, just 3 pry bars. First it was impossible to pry the bead over the rim, because the tire had flat profile and pinched more than designed to, the bead was immediately half way seated, so the was not enough lack to move the final quarter of the bead over the rim. I broke the half seated bead and put in some wood wedges between the bead and the rim to keep the bead in the narrowest rim part. After wedging the bead mounting took 2 minutes. Setting the bead - no problem to report. Now, how to get the fat tire in, having no bike jacks and not laying the bike down? The obvious and most effective solution was never crossed my mind, I used an idea from this board and took the whole rear fender out. It is 10 minutes job, providing you do it having some beer along the way. With out beer it is faster or slower, depending on installer’s character. I took 4 bolts holding the rack, and 2 holding the fender, after they were out the fender just lifted up, no need to disconnect anything. The wheel went right in and the clearance with everything was as clear as it gets. Easy – peasy.

Now, I rode 1500 km on the new tire. 250 km were like this.
No noticeable difference in handling. Revs are lower a bit because of very noticeable diameter change.

The most concern: clearance with the chain is 4-5 mm, too small for my taste.

It is obviously too early to say if my economic reasons were met.

BTW, I run it with 38 psi, and have no idea what all pressure fuss is about.
 

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Thanks for the post.
 

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195 x 17 is a real size and should give an extra 1/4 inch of chain clearence.

Coker has a n umber of like 6 x 17 but unsure if they are radials etc.
 

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195 x 17 is a real size and should give an extra 1/4 inch of chain clearence.

Coker has a n umber of like 6 x 17 but unsure if they are radials etc.
any 195 in a 17" is so low profile ya'd loose 1" or more ground clearance and not have much rim protection

the stock 150/70 is 105 mm tall from the wheel you don't want to deviate too far from that number, a 205/55 is 112.5 and a 205/50 is 102.5, the 195s available are only 40 series or 78 mm tall from the wheel

the 17" radial coker sells is a bias looking replica for classic cars and sells for more money than a bike tire.



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So what is the best size tire to use, the 205/55 or 205/50?

Also, what are the relative merits of the Arctic Altimax vs. the Exclaim UHP?
 

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So what is the best size tire to use, the 205/55 or 205/50?

Also, what are the relative merits of the Arctic Altimax vs. the Exclaim UHP?
the majority of darksiders are using the UHP, its a (Ultra High Performance) summer tire,

I went with the Altimax Artic cause it was for winter riding initially with no intent of summer use, the Altimax artic is not available in the 55 series, so the decision was easy, the other tire I was looking at was a studded Nokian Hakkapellitta 5, which eventually I want to get after I wear the General out



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So what is the best size tire to use, the 205/55 or 205/50? Also, what are the relative merits of the Arctic Altimax vs. the Exclaim UHP?
I'm going with the 205/50 Artic Altimax. It's only slightly smaller than the normal tire and has a tread configuration that will shed water very well.
 

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A "studded Nokian Hakkapellitta 5"? Glad that was posted in a tire thread because I would have no idea otherwise. Can you legally use tire studs in NH? They've been outlawed in MN for years. Of course, I'd use them anyway if I was inclined to ride on our icy roads. I'd use my DR though, not the DL.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Unmounted Exclaim 205/55 17 has 205 mm width. Mounted, I guess because of pinch, it gets narrower, ~ 195- 200 mm, which allows it to be squeesed into the swing arm with some clearance to the chain. I would try 205/50 17 instead, there probably wouldn't be such difference in diameter, and it might get narrower, because of total pinched size is less.
 

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A "studded Nokian Hakkapellitta 5"? Glad that was posted in a tire thread because I would have no idea otherwise. Can you legally use tire studs in NH? They've been outlawed in MN for years. Of course, I'd use them anyway if I was inclined to ride on our icy roads. I'd use my DR though, not the DL.
NH has no restrictions at all, I can run them year round, many states only allow them during winter months, very few prohibit studs entirely, mostly southern states, I notice MN only prohibits studs for residents, as a non resident, I can run studs

Minnesota - Prohibited except for nonresidents who are subject to restrictions imposed by their Reciprocity is granted. Full-time nonresident students employed within Minnesota permitted use of studded tires, regardless of vehicle registry

studded Nokian Hakkapeliitta 5




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NH has no restrictions at all, I can run them year round, many states only allow them during winter months, very few prohibit studs entirely, mostly southern states, I notice MN only prohibits studs for residents, as a non resident, I can run studs
Pretty sure NH does not legally allow studs after April 15th; not sure when they can go on in the fall. I've never heard of anyone getting hassled for it though and I've seen plenty of studded snows in July.
 

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Pretty sure NH does not legally allow studs after April 15th; not sure when they can go on in the fall. I've never heard of anyone getting hassled for it though and I've seen plenty of studded snows in July.
yer prolly thinkin of Maine, but I think they require that studded tires be off by May1,

NH has no restrictions(not a single mention of studded tires in RSA, infact, you can run solid steel tires if ya like

Section 266:50 Vehicle Tires.

fwiw, Vermont is also one of the states that does not restrict studs

Tire Stud Regulations

Stud Seasons and Laws For Canada and The United States - Bruno Wessel - Tire Studs, Studding Equipment



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This post is interesting, hilarious and bizarre if for real.
In the South West I'm not sure the car tire would provide the lean angle I assume on mountain roads. Sure would like the mileage it would probably provide though.
To find find one to fit my sidecar rig would be good.
 

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I reiterate

I followed RandyO at a spirited pace and would say there was always 1/4 to 1/3 of the tread on the road. The sidewalls flex, so it definitely provides what you need for everyday riding
 

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This is the only car tire I'd consider putting on my bike:

BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2

It's not a very good tire, but it's the only "sticky" tire that comes in the right size.
I don't care what anyone says; I don't believe a car tire is sticky enough for a bike. Weight is also a consideration, which is why a racing tire is better.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
From my personal experience I can now tell what the difference in handling is, for me.

On road – no difference in all angles I ride. I have not tried it on a track, but otherwise no difference.

Slow speed manoeuvres, less than 10 km/h, - I cannot decide, probably there is, but if there is, it is too subtle to notice.

Lose and thick gravel, - riding on a straight line is more sure footed than on a MT. Sliding out in a turn, - I have either to learn a new technique or it is not possible. To the contrary of popular opinion, I have a feeling that the side wall does not compress, instead, the tire surface is not totally flat, either because of the pinch or pressure, and it has some grip pattern on the edge between driving surface and side wall. This pattern, however narrow it is, is what actually the tire uses in a turn, and while it is quite enough on dry asphalt, is actually not on lose surfaces. So, there is a need to slow down.

Ruts, parallel to the riding direction and slope traverses, - the tire tries to put the flat riding surface flat, and I feel it very much. Riding on ruts has already been adjusted, slope traversing technique has to be.

And I have to try it in real mud.
 
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