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Damaged oil drain plug

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Please relieve my mind and tell me I am not screwed!!

I have a 2014 Suzuki VStrom 650 with an oil plug that’s really really tight. How it got so tight I don’t know since I did my last oil change and never tighten it that much. So unfortunately the bolt is now rounded off, lessened learned I guess.
Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed on how to remove the bolt. To make matters worse I am not the brightest bulb on the tree. I have done oil changes with basic tools on it before but that’s it. I am no where near a mechanic .

I bought a damaged bolt and stud extractor tool 1/4 - 1/2 (6mm -12mm) but it doesn’t fit.

Please, no rude or mean comments. I feel stupid enough as it is. I also don’t want to pay a dealer if I can help it.

Thank you in advance for your assistance.
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So unfortunately the bolt is now rounded off, lessened learned I guess.
I bought a damaged bolt and stud extractor tool 1/4 - 1/2 (6mm -12mm) but it doesn’t fit.
Don't do this and let the pro's chime in.... a good quality pipe wrench is what I would try. LEFTY LOOSY.
That or 8" Vise Grips at tight as you can clamp them on. clamp them close to the inner side of the jaws. In the unlikely event you snap the head off, you're back to the screw extractors; get a good, fresh burnish (smoothing) on the remaining shank, work the extractor s-l-o-w-l-y.
 

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Yeah, lefty loosy.

This bolt is upside down, so takes a moment’s thought, on which way to turn.

Otherwise, agree with other suggestions (good, small pipe wrench or large Vice grips, tighten tightly).
 

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This is what i have done for years. Use a air hammer with a semi sharp chisel slight bursts and it will come loose. If not confident do not attempt but practice on a bolt and nut clamped in a vice. I do not like the practice of extracting the oil from the fill but many seem to do that. May be an option. Hope you get it
 

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This is what i have done for years. Use a air hammer with a semi sharp chisel slight bursts and it will come loose. If not confident do not attempt but practice on a bolt and nut clamped in a vice. I do not like the practice of extracting the oil from the fill but many seem to do that. May be an option. Hope you get it
You can do the same thing with a hammer and a chisel. You put the chisel off to one side of the bolt aimed in the direction you want it to turn. Use sharp, quick blows to break loose the bolt. Have done this hundreds of times in my work and always got things apart. Be warned, practice this on something you can afford to abuse and throw away. You do not want to crack the engine case! The air hammer makes this easier but requires a lot of practice to master getting the bolt loose without destroying anything else. My best friend for many years is my Snap-On PH-50, a classic high end tool. If you use vise grips make them very tight and then strike them with a hammer in the direction you want to turn. You need force to break loose the parts. Think of it this way, try to push a nail through a board by hand...won't happen! Now use a hammer to strike it....now it goes in. Its simple physics, that inertial thing.
 

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Please relieve my mind and tell me I am not screwed!!

I have a 2014 Suzuki VStrom 650 with an oil plug that’s really really tight. How it got so tight I don’t know since I did my last oil change and never tighten it that much. So unfortunately the bolt is now rounded off, lessened learned I guess.
Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed on how to remove the bolt. To make matters worse I am not the brightest bulb on the tree. I have done oil changes with basic tools on it before but that’s it. I am no where near a mechanic .

I bought a damaged bolt and stud extractor tool 1/4 - 1/2 (6mm -12mm) but it doesn’t fit.

Please, no rude or mean comments. I feel stupid enough as it is. I also don’t want to pay a dealer if I can help it.

Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Bolt extractor set is a lifesaver. Lots available on amazon or your favorite tool store. Just used one while replacing my diesel injectors for stripped allen head bolts on the valve covers.

As said before, check direction you are rotating. Upside down bolts are easy to turn the wrong way. Don't ask me how I know this....
 

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Vice grips and make sure that you clamp them on the correct way. Vice grip jaws are directional. You want to TAP the vice grip toward the front wheel.
I do not recommend inexperienced people playing with unfamiliar and powerful tools.
Do it with hot oil as the aluminum case will expand more than the steel bolt. Use common sense when applying force.
 

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That or 8" Vise Grips at tight as you can clamp them on. clamp them close to the inner side of the jaws. In the unlikely event you snap the head off, you're back to the screw extractors; get a good, fresh burnish (smoothing) on the remaining shank, work the extractor s-l-o-w-l-y.
You can do the same thing with a hammer and a chisel. You put the chisel off to one side of the bolt aimed in the direction you want it to turn. Use sharp, quick blows to break loose the bolt. Have done this hundreds of times in my work and always got things apart. Be warned, practice this on something you can afford to abuse and throw away. You do not want to crack the engine case! The air hammer makes this easier but requires a lot of practice to master getting the bolt loose without destroying anything else. My best friend for many years is my Snap-On PH-50, a classic high end tool. If you use vise grips make them very tight and then strike them with a hammer in the direction you want to turn. You need force to break loose the parts. Think of it this way, try to push a nail through a board by hand...won't happen! Now use a hammer to strike it....now it goes in. Its simple physics, that inertial thing.
It’s not so much brute force as it is vibration propagating down the threads, from tapping on the fastener. If they seem tight, I remove the wrench and tap straight downward on the fastener head.

The driving on smaller socket or tapping vise grips, gets most of my problems solved.
 

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Once had to remove a 4" brass plug from a cast iron stack-pipe. Was frozen solid. Old farmer told me to use a small hammer and continue 'tapping' on the square 'bolt head' while applying tension. Said it might take a few minutes, but the vibrations will knock it loose. Took 20 minutes of continuous rapping on the wrench and bolt head before the first movement, but it did come loose.
Same idea here. Lock a pair of vise-grips on the head of the bolt, apply tension in the direction of removal (as said: lefty loosy, righty tighty) and tap lightly with a hammer...tappity...tappity....tappity...tap...tap...maybe a spritz of Breakaway or similar, tap...tapppity...tappity...tap...it should come loose. Take your time and try to feel for movement. Sometimes, a couple of taps while tensioning in the direction of tightening, then the same while loosening will coax the little bastard free. DAMHIK :LOL::cool:
Good luck and remember, this shit happens to all of us!
 
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I'm surprised that somebody is able to get the oil drain plug this tight without stripping the threads of the sump. Usually the threads give way well before the bolt head rounds off. That is, if you use the right socket. An imperial socket that fits over the bolt is usually too wide, so it applies pressure on the edges of the bolt head only, causing it to round off.

To the OP: Are you using a metric socket?
 

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When you get plug out,(you WILL get it out);get a new drain plug,right?Run the plug in by hand.Shouldn’t be any resistance. Use a new Crush washer under new plug!
When final assembly,all you want to do is collapse that washer.look at washer. You have had great advice here. Good lighting helps
 
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