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Discussion Starter #1
Im just switching out my chain and sprockets. The front sprocket i got has no rubber on it like the old front sprocket had. Is it ok to mount it like this? It doesn't appear the rubber parts come off the old sprocket. Will that affect the alignment if the rubber part is missing? There is rubber on each side of the old sprocket.

The other question i have is. This new chain is 525SRX 120 link chain. Matches the sprockets ok, but the chain is 4 or 5 links too long. Am i expected to cut this, or is this the wrong chain or something? The links line up perfectly with the old chain. Just too many of them.

Seems odd it would come with so many extra links.

Thanks guys. Tried to find this with Search, but its like a needle in a haystack.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The rubber doesn't make a difference other than sound. The chain should be cut to 112 links if the sprockets are stock 17/41.
 

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the stock chain is 112 links just borrow a chainbreaker and shorten it, the factory spockets have the rubber for noise reduction new one just whine a little more
 

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Cycle Gear has a chain tool with press and rivet on sale for $30, it's usually $90. Today is the last day of the sale I think. I bought one to replace my old break and am very impressed with the ease of operation.
 

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Excellent question!
I just ran into the same thing last night, and was wondering about the alignment too! Does anyone know the torque for the nut that holds the sprocket on?
 

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I'm just switching out my chain and sprockets. The front sprocket i got has no rubber on it like the old front sprocket had. Is it ok to mount it like this? It doesn't appear the rubber parts come off the old sprocket. Will that affect the alignment if the rubber part is missing? There is rubber on each side of the old sprocket.

The other question i have is. This new chain is 525SRX 120 link chain. Matches the sprockets ......Am i expected to cut this,....QUOTE]


:) Hi everyone, All the High Quality Chains today are coming boxed in 120 link link lengths so that you can set the correct chain length to match the actual gearing you use and where you place the rear wheel with the matching Rivet Master Link in the box for you.

There is a great diagram and description on the back of the EK-SRX Chain Boxes that show you how to correctly loop the chain once your sprockets are mounted and the rear wheel is installed and set the correct 1.25 -1.75 inches of slack with the bike upright.

The Precision Machined Steel Front Sprockets I ship are excellent and will not whine or create any additional noise. Members post up here continuously on how quite they run. The alignment is exellent,

Pat and I along with many others have posted as well that the rubber on the oem sprockets is not necessary, You are good to go,

Let me know whenever I can help you out,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Excellent question!
I just ran into the same thing last night, and was wondering about the alignment too! Does anyone know the torque for the nut that holds the sprocket on?
83lb-ft is the spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got it all back together last night. I put the chain on the bike and just figured out where it needed to be trimmed. Was easy.

Looks pretty sweet all back together with the black rear sprocket and gold chain.




Here is the old one


 

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:) Excellent work,

When it comes to tightening up the front sprockets here are two things to always remember that will make you life and getting it back off again the next time easier,

Never ever use any form of loctite on the counter shaft bolt and Use the good and Snug form or determing the correct amount of torque. Avoid the urge to go gorilla and give it that one more extra Umphhh.... when you know it is already tight.

Depended on your bike bend the washer tabs over the nut or whatever lock system is there and it will never come loose,

Have fun and enjoy the ride,

Best regards,
Blair
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I would use red Loctite on the Vee. Unlike the Wee, it has no lock washer. I would also stick with 83lb-ft on the Wee instead of the 105lb-ft in the manual. It's the same sprocket as the Vee and 83lb-ft is more reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My front sprocket didn't have a locking washer on it. It still had the stock sprocket in place so either it never had a locking washer, or it was not put back on when the sprocket was replaced last. The bike currently has about 32K miles on it, so a good chance this was the original sprocket. There was a solid washer before the bolt went on, but it is too thick to bend over to lock anything. Maybe that locking washer is only on the 650?

It did have the remains of red locktite on the theads, so i cleaned that off and put red locktite back on when i reassembled it. Getting it off was easy by standing on the bike with right foot on rear brake and left foot on breaker bar.

I torqued it up the same way and didn't give it anymore than what the torque wrench told me was right. Should be fine.

Thanks for the tips. :)
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The 650 has a thin, bend over locking washer. The 1000 has a thick, non locking washer.
 

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How many miles did you get out of the OEM setup. I am at 17,000 miles and the front/rear sprockets still look good. The only time I tighten my chain is when change the rear tire and I lube it maybe every 300-500 miles or so.

FWIW, I don't off road in the mud and muck or pull wheelies all over town.
How long can I expect the OEM chain to last?

Im just switching out my chain and sprockets. The front sprocket i got has no rubber on it like the old front sprocket had. Is it ok to mount it like this? It doesn't appear the rubber parts come off the old sprocket. Will that affect the alignment if the rubber part is missing? There is rubber on each side of the old sprocket.

The other question i have is. This new chain is 525SRX 120 link chain. Matches the sprockets ok, but the chain is 4 or 5 links too long. Am i expected to cut this, or is this the wrong chain or something? The links line up perfectly with the old chain. Just too many of them.

Seems odd it would come with so many extra links.

Thanks guys. Tried to find this with Search, but its like a needle in a haystack.
 

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Vendor
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:) You are or will be entering the end of life phase of your chain and sprockets anytime now. Once you reach the end of Adjustability on the chain it will be stretched as much as can safely be so use that as one benchmark.

The other is watch the sprockets now, when you reach the just noticeable difference in the sprockets when they either begin to develop points or hook at all you are already beyond time to swap them out,

Best to swap both sprockets and the chain out together,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I believe I had 32k on my front sprocket, and i would bet the rear was stock too, which means likely the chain as well. I bought my bike used last year and don't recall if the previous owner mentioned he had swapped these out or not. There was no maintenance history with the bike.

I went up a size in the rear sprocket and the front sprocket has needed changing for a while.
 

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Thanks for the reply. When the time comes, you get my money. Thanks for the support.

:) You are or will be entering the end of life phase of your chain and sprockets anytime now. Once you reach the end of Adjustability on the chain it will be stretched as much as can safely be so use that as one benchmark.

The other is watch the sprockets now, when you reach the just noticeable difference in the sprockets when they either begin to develop points or hook at all you are already beyond time to swap them out,

Best to swap both sprockets and the chain out together,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair
 
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