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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Goode6 was interested in cutting down windshield. Here is how I do it but I learned about this from the CalSci site. Flatten a cardboard box and push against the top of the existing shield and use a Sharpie to draw a line on the cardboard of the top curve of the shield. You then use scissors to cut the cardboard on the line. You now have a pattern of the top of the shield. Next, use blue painters tape on both sides of the shield from the top to well below the acrylic you will remove. You can use short pieces of tape and put plenty of it on. The tape will prevent the acrylic from chipping. Then hold/tape your pattern and measure vertically in the middle of the shield and draw a cutting line about 1/2 inch down from the top of the existing shield. I don't mind doing this several times rather than cut off too much material. Then use a saber saw with a fairly fine blade and cut along the line on the tape. I have done the cutting of the shield off the bike braced on soft furniture in the house but have also done on-bike but then I really hold the shield with my left hand very close to the cut to reduce the vibration. I cut on the front side to cut fairly flat with the shield curve. Leave the tape on the shield and use a file to smooth the cut. Remove tape on the piece you cut off to see what the top looked like and duplicate the smoothness and look of the new shield top to the old.. Get the new top real smooth with the file and round it some on both front and rear. . You may also need to use the file to round out the curve on the sides. Remove the tape. Use fine steel wool to further smooth the new top. Then, use a cleaner such as Novus. Novus has a cleaner, a fine scratch remover and larger scratch remover paste. Never use any paper product to clean the shield. After all this, ride some to see if you want to cut more. I cut mine so I can see the ground about 50 ft in front of the bike but can see a lot closer if I sit up real tall and straight. My goal was to never have to look through a rainy helmet shield AND a rainy wind shield at night. This is an easy job but the blue tape and the pattern are the keys to a good job.
 

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I found cutting it about 25mm in then hold the previously cut end with a visegrip plier over the cut and then continue cutting, this stops the vibration from the cutting tool and leaves a free hand to ensure a smooth cut.....just a tip!
 

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Curious....what kind of cutter & blade did you guys use to leave a very clean cut?
 

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Curious....what kind of cutter & blade did you guys use to leave a very clean cut?
Don't laugh, but...............a serrated bread knife, not one of those with a really jagged edge but a 'softer' cutting edge. Works fantastically, just a little slow, but very clean. I have used a jigsaw with a fine wood blade before, but I thought slower with a large surface area was the way to go. Oh and mask it up well.
 

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Wow, nice prep routine on the OP.

FWIW, I've used a multi-tool to cut a CeeBailey windscreen in the past and it worked well. The biggest challenge with that tool was making a perpendicular cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What Tool

I use an electric saber saw or some would call it a jig saw. The blades are available at Home Depot Etc. and I use a metal cutting fine blade. I have a blade that seems to have no teeth and it is supposed to make an ultra smooth cut but I have not tried it on shield. Assuming it is sharp it would be similar to using a knife. I never thought of knife as some have used. The saber saw blade moves up and down and rapidly; thus the vibration.
 

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I cut down a shield with a saber saw, then filed the edges, and then finished up with progressively finer wet sand paper eventually ending with 600 grit wet sand paper. You do that and you can make it look just like a factory edge.
 

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I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel. I only had to use some 320 grit sandpaper to clean up some sharp edges. Then used flat black paint on the edges.
 

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I used the same procedure, tape and all but, with a dremel tool with a heavy duty fiber cut off wheel. No chips! I then used a quarter sheet orbital sander in grits from 80 to 3000 and wound up with a perfectly polish edge.
 

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Thanks for the responses....next question:

Is it worth cutting down the shield & sanding over getting a Moose Racing shorty screen, which only costs $50?
 

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Cutting down windshield

What screen are you starting with? Why not figure out what height shield you want and order the Moose for $50? Then if you like the moose sell the original screen which will reduce the cost of the Moose? If you don't like the Moose re-sell it.

PS: I see you also have a 2011' DL-650. I bought the Madstad bracket with 20" Adventure shield and it is absolutely perfect for me. Even in the lowest setting it's almost dead calm and quiet behind it at even above 75-80 mph and I'm looking at least 4" over it. I can ride with my Shoie Neotec flipped open at those speeds with no effect on earodynamics. I'm 5'7", 30" inseam and 165 lbs for a frame of reference. They make 22" windshields if needed. The combo of bracket and windshield was $200.00. IMHO it's the best money you can spend in solving the earodynamic problems with the WeeStrom.

http://www.madstad.com/s.nl/sc.7/category.750/.f
 
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