Custom Wind Deflectors- DIY perspex version for 2013 Glee

2765 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Bruce777, May 11, 2021

hopefiendboy

Discussion Starter · May 8, 2021

HI All

I'd read many threads about the wind buffeting- the original screen did not work for me, then after a chance to ride my bike at higher speeds the high frequency buffeting was an issue.

So, like so many others I went about fabricating my own set of wind deflectors to deal with the issues. Used 3mm perspex, heated up to 150deg C for 11 mins and then moulded next to the bike....

SO, after that, the last remaining part was some mirror extenders to push the mirrors a bit further out as they produced turbulence at head height. And VOILA the issue has gone for me.

I hope this will provide some inspiration for others that have similar issues. This is my take on it.

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Dado8

· #2 · May 8, 2021

Good job on doing that

it probably need some more smoothing and maybe just to hit the edges with a torch flame to get them clear and transparent. Wondering did you explore the option of using polycarbonate instead ? How much more expensive is polycarbonate ?
I am guessing you warmed up your pieces in the kitchen oven ?

My limited knowledge on plastics and some research is suggesting "lexan, perspex and other acrylics are prone to yellowing and cracking producing sharp edges when broken?

I guess in your application the pieces are small and they would probably break off and fly away, so no danger of cutting yourself. What tool did you use to cut it ?
I tried to cut my bike windshield once with a scroll saw and very fine blade, but the cut was melting behind the blade and welding the plastic back together, so I picked up a special blade for plastic and it did a much better job.

Here is what Google returned on the two:
Perspex® acrylic sheet can resist impacting 17 times more than glass whereas polycarbonate can manage to resist impact 250 times more than glass. ... Acrylic is more rigid and can crack under extreme impact.

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Solarguy

· #3 · May 9, 2021

Acrylic (perspex) is much less likely to turn yellow than polycarbonate. That's assuming it's not cheapo imported acrylic.

Acrylic (Plexiglas®, Lucite®, and Acrylite®) comes from natural gas and is completely inert when in solid form. American-made acrylic does NOT yellow in the sunlight. ... There are three other clear plastics that do yellow in the sun and get confused with acrylic- Styrene, PETG, and Polycarbonate.

Polycarbonate is better at absorbing UV rays, but that's also what causes the yellowing.

Polycarbonate is far more shatter resistant, but far less scratch resistant. Glass is extremely scratch resistant, but extremely brittle. Stated differently, scratch resistance and shatter resistance are inversely related (in the polymers of interest). Scratches in acrylic can be buffed out repeatedly and look great afterwards. Polycarbonate, much less so.

Acrylic doesn't like the cold, does tend to produce sharp edges when it does crack and can be hard to work or machine without inducing cracks. Both can be bent reasonably easily using an oven or even just a heat gun if it's a smaller piece.

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Akumu

· #4 · May 9, 2021

For people that don't/can't fabricate the CalSci wind blockers seem to work OK.

https://calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/VStrom650prod.html

I never felt the need to use them, myself.

Your setup there looks nearly Goldwing levels of quiet in the cabin, though.

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TAC PRO

· #5 · May 9, 2021

For windshield purposes, polycarbonate is preferable for impact resistance and optical clarity, although it requires drying for several hours before heating for forming and is very sensitive to forming temperature.
Acrylic is prefered for scratch resistance and ease of forming.
The best compromise is Impact Modified Acrylic. This plastic is as easy to form and is as scratch resistant as Acrylic and has a much higher impact resistance.

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hopefiendboy

Discussion Starter · #6 · May 9, 2021

Damirio said:
Good job on doing that it probably need some more smoothing and maybe just to hit the edges with a torch flame to get them clear and transparent. Wondering did you explore the option of using polycarbonate instead ? How much more expensive is polycarbonate ?
I am guessing you warmed up your pieces in the kitchen oven ?

My limited knowledge on plastics and some research is suggesting "lexan, perspex and other acrylics are prone to yellowing and cracking producing sharp edges when broken?

I guess in your application the pieces are small and they would probably break off and fly away, so no danger of cutting yourself. What tool did you use to cut it ?
I tried to cut my bike windshield once with a scroll saw and very fine blade, but the cut was melting behind the blade and welding the plastic back together, so I picked up a special blade for plastic and it did a much better job.

Here is what Google returned on the two:
Perspex® acrylic sheet can resist impacting 17 times more than glass whereas polycarbonate can manage to resist impact 250 times more than glass. ... Acrylic is more rigid and can crack under extreme impact.

Hey, I just used some 3mm perspex that was lying around unused in the workshop that was being chucked out. The ploycarbonate would be a better option for impact resistance I guess, but for now this will have to do. I just cut it with a coping saw as best I could (blade was for wood but proved fine). Cooked the sheeting in the oven at 150 deg c for 11 minutes which allowed about 25 seconds of mould time when next to the bike. This was my first time trying this so pretty pleased with the results and the effect on the wind protection.

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hopefiendboy

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 9, 2021

Akumu said:
For people that don't/can't fabricate the CalSci wind blockers seem to work OK.

https://calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/VStrom650prod.html

I never felt the need to use them, myself.

Your setup there looks nearly Goldwing levels of quiet in the cabin, though.

I had seen these but to be honest I felt that the approach I took was a real belt and braces thing to make sure the same issue did not occur. If it had I would have sold the bike, and didnt want to go down that road. I am pleased that I did persevere and try this tho.

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realshelby

· #8 · May 9, 2021

TAC PRO said:
For windshield purposes, polycarbonate is preferable for impact resistance and optical clarity, although it requires drying for several hours before heating for forming and is very sensitive to forming temperature.
Acrylic is prefered for scratch resistance and ease of forming.
The best compromise is Impact Modified Acrylic. This plastic is as easy to form and is as scratch resistant as Acrylic and has a much higher impact resistance.

Actually good quality Acrylic ( Cast Acrylic like I use on the WERKS Quiet Ride screens ) has notably better optical clarity than polycarbonate. Add to the fact that high end producers of polycarbonate screens add a hard coating to help with the propensity for polycarbonate to scratch....and that decreases optical clarity!

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TAC PRO

· #9 · May 10, 2021

realshelby said:
Actually good quality Acrylic ( Cast Acrylic like I use on the WERKS Quiet Ride screens ) has notably better optical clarity than polycarbonate.

I stand corrected.

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Solarguy

· #10 · May 10, 2021

TAC PRO said:
I stand corrected.

The ability to take in new information and form a new plan or opinion is almost a superpower these days.

Well done!

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Bruce777

· #11 · May 11, 2021

I am really impressed with your project. Where I live it is so hot, I don't think it would be worth the effort for me.
My wind shield main propose for me is to help keep the rain out of my face.
I use National Cycle VStream Tall Touring Windscreen Suzuki V-Strom.

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